Correction: this post states the marble in Rigsby's is faux. I, ignorant of my marbles (hm), was in error; I have been informed it is imported Italian marble. I regret the error.
Rigsby's Kitchen, formerly Rigsby's Cuisine Volatile, was a pioneer for Columbus. Twenty years ago, they opened their restaurant in a part of town so shady that they made the entrance around back, so that diners could get out of their cars 8 feet from the entrance. That part of town developed into the Short North Arts District, and years later, going around the back has always seemed like a hassle for me. That, and their bar seated only 4 people when their restaurant was really quite spacious; I am a bar person and get testy when restaurant owners think so lowly of their bar clientele. Rigsby's had always had a strange decor, I always called it "Grandma's Florida room in Ft. Myers, circa 1983." Cool tropical colors and wicker chairs seemed to be their motif. It was really quite horrible.
Rigsby's has gone through a series of chefs, but now owner Kent Rigsby is back at the helm. Husband and I have had so many mediocre (or worse) dinners there, accompanied by mediocre service, that we finally decided about a year ago to never go back. The only thing I really remember about that dinner is that we stopped in before going to see Belle & Sebastian. Husband at this time only had about one day off a week, and we had to pack our entire evening's entertainment into one night. I think it was a Tuesday. We made reservations for something ridiculously early, like 6:30.
We were the second table in the restaurant and we were seated at THE WORST table in the house. I never mind sitting by the kitchen - this table was located between a server side stand and a walkway. We couldn't move to a nicer table, because they were all reserved. I do remember that I had squash raviolis with brown butter and sage (It was late October). It might be unoriginal, but it is still one of my favorites; I had 2 4-inch raviolis. For $20. The only other thing I remember is that our bill was $125, and we were out of there by 7:30. And there were still only 2 tables in the restaurant. I get testy when I spend so much of my time giving good service and putting my guests' needs first and then I go out and don't get the same treatment, and I am ALWAYS nice. That may be my problem.
Well, I guess that's enough background. Rigsby's closed for renovation after New Year's, and reopened in late January. I picked Husband up from work and after some deliberation, we decided to go home and change (yea! excuse to wear a skirt!) quickly and try out the newly (visually) improved Rigsby's.
The two best decisions they made were 1. Move the expanded bar to a prominent location at the front of the restaurant and 2. Move the entrance and the valet parking, also to the front of the restaurant. The only drawback being that there is no breezeway, so those sitting at the bar might get a little shiver every time the door is opened. The valet seemed to be considerate about this, however, and never allowed guests coming or going to stand there with the door open.
The color scheme has been changed to the standard modern black, wood, and stainless look, with all table and bar surfaces covered in faux marble. It looks very nice. It looks like somewhere I want to be. Alas, the wicker chairs remained. It really is a shame. The bartender explained that, 20 years ago, they were purchased as designer chairs for $300 or something each, and the owners just can't let them go.
I was saddened, when I ordered a pre-dinner Lillet, to find they have stopped carrying it. Am I the only apperitif drinker in this city? What is wrong with you people? Lillet is delicious! We studied the wine list a little disenchantedly, and chose a bottle of Aubry Champagne for $47. We marveled that part of their new decor is a set of three large wine caves, holding about 1500 bottles each, when their list is a little lacking, but what are you going to do?
In a trend wisely started (in Columbus) by wine and tapas bar The Burgundy Room, just down the street, Rigsby's offers some small plates at their bar; I do have to say that their small plates are a little more adventurous than at the Burgundy Room, but not as well executed. We opted for just a plate of mixed marinated olives, and shallot and white truffle deviled eggs; both dishes were $2. Cheap munchies that come almost immediately, for impatient and hungry little girls. The deviled eggs needed a little kick of vinegar and sprinkling of sea salt to round out their flavors, I thought; full of raw diced shallots and overwhelmed with truffle oil as they were, but who am I to complain when they are $2? We chose a brief dinner of pasta dishes for both of us. I knew Husband would choose the gnocchi with pulled rabbit, because he loves rabbit and you just can't find it anywhere. I don't usually order pasta when dining out, but I was so excited to see that they had whole wheat spaghetti on their menu that I couldn't resist ordering the whole wheat spaghetti with braised duck. I also had to order a side of the brussels sprouts with pancetta for the same reason Husband has to order rabbit.
Both pastas where light and simple, with brothy, honest sauces. Husband's gnocchi swam in a bright broth a la minute with slivered green olives, capers, bits of artichoke hearts, and the pulled rabbit. The gnocchi, which were really more like dumplings or gnocchi-shaped matzo balls, continued to soak up the broth and the ones that weren't eaten immediately grew both in the bowl and in the stomach and I could only steal two. The flavors were nicely balanced and I found little to complain about. The spaghetti, however, was a different story. The only flavor in my dish was braised duck, accompanied by duck braising liquid. There were also some bits of pancetta, although not listed on the menu, that also seemed to have been part of the braising liquid, as they were now reduced to nothing but soggy, fatty bits to be avoided. Husband enjoyed the spaghetti, and accepted my offer to finish it. The brussels sprouts were perfect. Lightly steamed and then finished in a hot pan, so that the cut sides had a lovely caramelized finished, tossed with good bits of crispy pancetta, just the way I make them. Husband and I were fighting over those.
All of the desserts seemed too rich after all of that duck and rabbit, and so we passed; they do, however, have a cookie plate, and I will have to return for some fried sardines and the cookie plate.
I also would like to give their meat dishes a try. Their menu is very brief; there are a few pastas, sold here as first courses, and then scallops, sole, beef, chicken, pork and duck. I believe there was also a lamb special, since the bartender was trying to sell the couple seated next to us on the lamb, but we were not specialized.
Let it not be said that I am unwilling to try a new restaurant, or give a previously written-off one another try.
INFO: Rigsby's Kitchen 698 N. High St. Columbus, OH phone: 614-461-7888.
