Day #1 - The Long and Winding Road to La Morra . . .
If it hadn't been for an unparalleled meal in an incredible location, I may not have survived day one. Because Columbus is the hub to and home of nothing in particular, I had to take a brief jaunt to Boston to pick up an Alitalia flight. After a few hour layover in Boston/Logan airport (and a sandwich and beer at a foul-smelling Houlihans), we finally boarded for the Milan leg of the flight. Perhaps it was naivete on my part, but I expected something quite different from international travel. I assumed it would be a plane full of international jet-setters and business persons. Sadly, much like domestic flights, the plane was full of children and families. With children and families come screaming, loud talking, seat kicking, tantrum-throwing and a general disregard for others. Despite, it was not a bad flight. Comparatively speaking, the food on Alitalia was not bad. The salmon was hot and flavorful, and the fruit relatively fresh. For dessert, I had a large helping of Ms. Congeniality 2. After a brief nap, I was awakened by a nice breakfast sandwich and the news that we were descending into Milan.
We touched down in Milan at 7:30am. What little information I had told me that I would be meeting up with my fellow travelers and representatives from the Wine Importer near a coffee shop in the airport. My other tourmates didn't arrive until 11:30 and 3:30, so I sat/slept in the Milan airport for eight hours. Twenty-one hours into the trip, we finally set out for La Morra.
After a three-hour drive through the Italian countryside, we arrived at the first of our hotels, the Corte Gondina. After a few minutes to settle in, the group decided to take a walk around town. Unbeknownst to us, few things are open on Tuesdays...no discernable reason...but nothing's open. We walked up and down the winding roads, looking at locked doors and dark windows. Growing tired and cranky, we returned to our hotel at the bottom of the town for a few drinks by the poolside. Needing nourishment, we promptly hiked back to the top of the town to the only restaurant that was open, Ristorante Belvedere. Despite our grubby attire, they agreed to serve us.
Before giving food any serious consideration, a few bottles of white wine were spread around. The fresh minerality of the '04 Corroggia Arncis was refreshing after the long hike, and the perfect aperitif. Rather than watching everyone fumble through the menu, our hosts ordered serveral courses of various plates for us to share. The first courses were a collection of Piedmont classics: Vitello Tonnato (cold poached veal with a sauce of tuna, capers and mayonnaise), mushrooms and custard in puff pastry, and Carne Cruda (tartar of Piedmont veal). The pasta course was a lesson in perfect simplicity: Agnolotti dal Plin ("pinched" mushroom agnolotti in a light mushroom sauce) and Tajarin (shredded pasta in a basic meat sauce). The meat course was incredible and ideal for the Barolo that was flowering liberally. Vitello Stracotta al Barolo (veal braised in Barolo), sliced beef tenderloin, and an unbelievable roast leg of lamb with fried porcini. After the plates were cleared (and more Barolo was ordered), the restaurant staff rolled out a cheese card the size of a gurney. Cheeses of every size, shape and region were offered, and while all the cheeses were great, it was the sweet, aromatic preserve of wine grapes that stole the show.
Fortunately, the restaurant was at the top of the hill and the hotel at the bottom; we slid/stumbled/staggered down to the hotel intent on catching a few hours of sleep before next morning's Barolo expedition was to begin.
