Restaurant Widow

Pierogies from Krystyna's Deli

  I was in search of sandwiches the other day, and decided to give Krystina's Deli in Grandview a try.  Although it is billed as a deli, it's really more of a Polish grocery store and carryout, offering a large selection of prepackaged products, as well as their own large assortment of pierogies and pastries.

I decided to skip the sandwiches and purchase some frozen pierogies (potato and cheddar variety - they have about 10 options) instead.  "You know how to cook these?"  the owner asked.  "Er, boil?"  As if the very thought pained him, he began waving a hand and saying "NO!  No, no, no.  You fry in a little olive oil and butter.  You like onion, you put onion.  You like bacon?  You put bacon.  Oh, with bacon is so good.  No, I already boil.  You fry.  You want them nice and brown."

Because I know you should always listen to the man with the accent who made his own specialty, I'm glad I showed my ignorance.  I just added a little sage and shallot to the mix and sauteed them up, allowing the butter to brown a big.  They were also good simply well-browned (I know, in the picture they aren't browned enough) in butter and sprinkled liberally with salt and pepper.  I will have to go back again this week and try the blueberry ones!  I will, of course, report back.

Info:  Krystyna's Delicatessen  1453  Grandview Ave  Columbus 614.488.2860

Thanksgiving Recipe #1 - Pumpkin Cheesecake

I am sure that many of you, at least those in the States, are getting ready for various Thanksgiving celebrations (no?  too early?), so I am offering some of my favorite Thanksgiving recipes.  This is a new one that I tried out, a really nice and subtle pumpkin cheesecake.  Some of my tasters found the pumpkin flavor a little too subtle, truth be told, but I reminded them that this is a cheesecake, and not pumpkin pie.  I adapted this recipe from Emeril, and although it can easily be found here, I will include it in the extended post, as payback for the years I've had to suffer whilst accidentally coming across his many programs on the Food Network

The nice thing is this cake must be made in advance - up to 4 days in advance - so you won't have anything to worry about while you're getting everything else ready.  This recipe comes together easily in a large food processor; I haven't tried it in a mixer with a whisk attachment, but I'm sure it would work as long as your cream cheese was very soft.

WCB #21

Happy Birthday Kiri (click on the links to see everyone else)!  We made you a pumpkin cheesecake, about which we will write later!  For this week, the cold in the house caused all the kitties in the Widow household to get along spotlessly, at least for the sake of warmth.  Here are (top to bottom) Ike, Grover Jay, and Abe trying to keep warm.

Japanese Oriental Restaurant

I think I may have found the best lunch value in Columbus.  It should be no surprise that it comes in the form of a bento (don't say bento box.  Bento means box in Japanese, so you're really just saying box box.  Sorry, I'm cold and feeling cranky).  Some people might not find this a value, as I was on a local dining message board the other day and someone was whining about how the sandwiches at a local deli were too expensive at $4.  Haven't they ever been Katzinger's?!  At least I can easily imagine that I'll g et my money's worth for a $4 sandwich, something that can't be necessarily be said for a $14 one.  Okay, the cat - or Kat - is out of the bag, but we'll get to my skepticism of Katzinger's on another day. 

Back to the task at hand.  I live near the perfunctorily-named Japanese Oriental restaurant, and I have been meaning to try it for years but just haven't made it there yet.  My friend Sam recommended it rather highly, and I trust Sam's judgment in everything except movies (seriously, Sam, I Stand Alone?) but again, I digress.

I was expecting something a little different from Japanese Oriental - maybe something a little gritty and divey - it is, after all, pretty close to campus and other divey ethnic joints, but it was clean and spare, with light woods and good lighting, the hallmark of Japanese restaurants.  This is rather a misnomer, as the menu is really more focused on Korean cuisine, and Korean interpretations of Chinese and Japanese dishes. 

I plan to revisit Japanese Oriental, if for nothing else than their large plate pork belly dish, for lo, Husband and I do love us some pork belly.  Unfortunately, it would appear from the picture of the presentation on the menu that this is an entire pork belly, and it would fee many people.  Must remember to find other pork-loving souls for fattening dinner.

The bento was a great deal, far better than Tyfoon's bento for only $1 more.  I chose the tempura box, which included 2 shrimp and slices of onion, zucchini, sweet potato and acorn squash (I ordered a shrimp tempura appetizer at Haiku once for $10, and was served this same portion), a small serving of beef bolgogi, a nice little heap of good steamed white rice topped with a generous scoop of tobiko (flying fish roe), four slices of California roll, and assorted Korean side dishes (kimchee, pickled cabbage and mung beans, and spiced potatoes), and a nice little slice of crab and nori omelet..  A nice hot bowl of miso soup preceded the box, perfect for thawing out my hands.

Some people have complained that the service at Japanese Oriental is slow and unfriendly, but my server was very nice and I was in and out before my abandoned cup of coffee could get cold whilst sitting in the car and waiting for my return.  Total lunch tab: $14.75 with tip, miso soup, lunch box and hot tea.

Info:  Japanese Oriental Restaurant 2283 North High Street Columbus (far North Campus)  614.299.6544

Cooking Lull

I keep meaning to cook something - I have this risotto I'd like to make, I have this piece of salmon waiting to be panko crusted, but I have this problem.  It is very, very cold in my house.  Okay, I guess that's a relative term.  It is 55 degrees in my house.  It sounds like it might be a nice temperature for the beautiful autumn day that we're having outside, but when you're sitting at the computer trying to write or standing in the kitchen trying to chop things, it makes for quickly freezing fingers.

It all started like this...Husband and I, wary of the projected 65-70% rise in natural gas rates in the Midwest, decided that we would wait as long as possible to turn on the heat.  As the temperature lowered in the house, all of the cats started to look at us suspiciously, as though maybe starvation would be coming after freezing.  The cats and the humans slowly became sluggish and irritable, burrowing under covers and huddling together to keep warm.  We decided to give in and turn on the heat.  Unfortunately, the furnace decided it wasn't quite ready yet.  We, apparently, are not the only people having this difficulty, as the furnace people can't quite seem to nail down a time when they can come check it out, nor can they seem to arrive after we've nailed down said 4 hour window.  It actually occurred to me (briefly) to attempt to build a fire in our decorative fireplace (it does not connect to a chimney).  Cold must numb brain cells as well as appendages.

All of that to say, no salmon.  No risotto.  Lots of hot coffee and soup.  Lots of covers and slippers and fuzzy socks.  Although the oven is occasionally set to 450 and left empty, just to raise the temperature a degree or 2.

Monday Morning Breakfast

On Monday mornings, Husband and I like to visit Jeni's Ice Cream in the North Market for breakfast.  Here it is, my new favorite flavor: Almond Butter ice cream, here topped with a little Sweet Potato ice cream.  Autumn in a waffle cone:

Better Late than Never - Alana's Harvest Dinner Recap

October 9 was an evening filled with great local food - prepared by great local chefs - and wines from everywhere (one from Ohio) at Alana's, celebrating the harvest season and the farmers who made the evening possible.  Here's the recap - sorry about the pictures, I was still in full camera-related learning curve mode.

First off, with no picture, was a Zephyr Squash Pancake (from Toad Hill Farm) topped with smoked trout (Fresh Water farms) from Alana, which was served with Kinkead Ridge 2004 Viognier/Roussanne, which hails from our fair state.

Next, a spaghetti squash flan with (I believe) a duck stock reduction, also from Alana.

The poultry course, prepared by Thomas Smith from the Worthington Inn, was rather like chicken and dumplings, or as a friend described it, a "deconstructed pot pie."  Thorne River chicken was braised and served with oyster, shitake and trumpet mushrooms from Mushroom Harvest, and topped with a cornmeal dumpling.  Served with Muller-Catoir 2000 Haardter Herrenletten Kabinett Riesling:

Next up, my favorite, the pork course!  Prepared by David Tetzloff from G. Michael's Bistro, King Family Farm pork with grilled apples from the Orchard of Tom and Vicki Smith, served with braised collard greens and spicy bourbon caramel sauce and a little mascarpone mousse (a similar dish can currently be found on their menu).  Paired with 2002 Jean Fournier 2002 Marsannay Clos de Roy.  (sorry about the really terrible picture)

The lamb course, from Blues Creek Farms lamb, was prepared by John Dornback from Basi Italia, and featured a nice little lamb porterhouse with a dried cherry sauce, with a really great Toad Hill Farm squash cannelloni on the side.  This was served with Edmunds St. John 2001 Roxet Vineyard Los Robles Viejo.

All good things must come to an end, and luckily this was a sweet one, with a study of Jeni's Ice cream.  The flavors included Ohio Black Walnut, Apple Cider sorbet, and my favorite, and I suggest you visit her shop directly in search of it, Almond Butter.  Truly one of the most delicious ice creams I have tasted. (and I loved the little square ice cream spoon.)

I thought the event was great, and I look forward to doing it again next year.  It was really nice to meet some of the farmers and put a face to the products.  Thanks Alana!

WCB #20

This is the face of a fat, happy cat.  Photo courtesy of Husband.

Next week will be Kiri from Eat Stuff's birthday!  Here are the others so far:

Check out the cute glinda in a kitty sling! I so want one for Kiri!!!! at Anne's Food
Check out the growing little kittens who are taking over Boos house at Masak Masak!
Check out the pusses who ardusting to their new found celebrity status at The Food Pornogropher 
Check out Tigger basking in thew sunlight at Look hunny, I cooked
Check out the newly renamed Bowser setting in at A cat in the Kitchen
Check out Trina hanging out in the window at Indyfoodie
Check out the Phi Phi Island asian lucky cat at Les Carnets de sbmarie
Check out Baily the cute fluff ball at The Moveable Feast Food Blog
Check out the guest kitty Kitties at Kayaksoup
*Pause for a moment for the lost Minnaloushe* I am so sorry for your loss Barbara,
but we welcome the new kitten on the blockMei-Mei Ari the adorable fluffball at Tigers & Strawberries *Cute Kitten alert*

Braised Short Ribs

Short ribs are one of the quintessential fall and winter dishes.  Nothing is more satisfying on a cold day than their meaty succulence, along with the aromas created by their long cooking time.  They are actually quite easy to prepare, requiring only a little chopping and assembling, and then a little straining.  They are so rich that I like to serve them alongside something very simple, such as mashed potatoes flavored only with a little cream, salt and pepper.

Braised Short Ribs - serves 2

3 pound short ribs, bone in

1/2 cup flour

1 tsp salt

pinch pepper

1/4 cup strained pork fat (from cooking bacon), lard, or olive oil

1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped

3 medium carrots, peeled and chopped

1 head garlic, cloves smashed and peeled, left whole

2 sprigs rosemary

1 tsp dried oregano

2 tbsp tomato paste

1 cup red wine

about 2 cups beef stock

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Place the flour, salt and pepper in a zip-top bag; place 2-3 ribs in the bag and shake, then remove the ribs, shaking off the excess flour.  In a large, oven-proof saute pan (or dutch oven) over medium heat, melt your bacon fat and brown the short ribs in 2-3 batches; do not crowd the pan.  Brown each side for about 1 minute or until nicely brown.  Repeat until all ribs are browned and set aside. 

Place the onions and carrot in the pan and saute until they are just beginning to brown, then add the garlic cloves, oregano and rosemary.  Add the tomato paste and stir into the veggies; add a good pinch of salt.  Deglaze the pan with the red wine and then place the short ribs back in the pan.  Add enough beef stock to come about halfway up the ribs; cover the pan and cook in oven for about 2 hours, or until the ribs are very tender.

Remove the ribs from the pan, cover with foil, and set aside.  Carefully strain the braising liquid and discard solids.  I like to strain it again, but it's a matter of personal taste.  Place the liquid in a bowl and refrigerate for about 30 minutes, or until the fat has solidified.  Remove the fat from the top and discard; place the liquid back in the pan and simmer, over medium heat; add the short ribs back to the pan and reheat for about 10 minutes.  Remove the ribs to plates and allow the liquid to reduce (4 minutes or so), until you have a nice reduction.  Pour over the short ribs (and potatoes!) and enjoy!

Arugula Salad with Smoked Duck Breast, Cherries and Hazelnuts

This simple appetizer is a study in balance: the smoky meatiness of the duck, the tartness of the cherries, the sharpness of the cheese, and the peppery hotness of the arugula all come together with a super simple vinaigrette.  If your arugula is not too hot to eat alone, I would suggest reducing the amount of sugar in the vinaigrette; this arugula was really, really hot. (yum!)  Smoked duck breast is available at larger specialty food markets or online (I bought this one at Whole Foods for $8).  I don't care for cold duck fat, so even though I pictured the salad with the fat on, I removed it before it eating.  You can use it for another purpose.

Arugula Salad with Smoked Duck Breast, Cherries, and Hazelnuts - serves 2

2 large handfuls Arugula, rinsed and well dried, roughly chopped or torn

2 tbsp Hazelnut oil

2 tbsp Champagne Vinegar

1 tsp Dijon Mustard

1/4 cup dried cherries

1-2 tbsp sugar

1 smoked duck breast, cold, thinly sliced

1/4 cup hazelnuts, roasted and roughly chopped

2 ounces very sharp, good aged cheddar (I used something called Robusto, a hard aged cheddar, which I also bought from Whole Foods - anything bleu is a natural companion as well)

good sea salt

Place the dried arugula in a bowl and set aside.  Place the hazelnut oil, vinegar, mustard, sugar, and cherries in a small saucepan over medium heat and stir with a whisk until warm (not boiling - 3 minutes or so).  Pour over the arugula, sprinkle with a little salt, and toss to coat.  Place the arugula on a plate and top with the duck slices.  With a vegetable peeler, peel thin slices of the cheddar over the salad.  Top with the chopped hazelnuts and a little extra dressing, adding any cherries to the plate that did not cling to the greens.  Sprinkle everything with a little sea salt.

White Beans and Rice with Ham Hock

Here, a nice and hearty, yet simple, autumn/winter recipe.  It's the second Husband recipe for the week (get out the Herbes de Provence!), using two of his favorite ingredients: beans and pork. 

White Beans and Rice with Ham Hock - serves 4

olive oil

2 medium onions, small dice

4 ribs celery, small dice

1 red bell pepper, small dice

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 T Herbes de Provence

4 cans (or 1 pound dried, soaked overnight) white beans

1 ham hock

4 cups beef stock

1 cup red wine

Salt and Black Pepper

In a large (7-8 quart) stock pot, saute the onions, celery and bell pepper in a little olive oil (or bacon fat) over medium heat.  Add the garlic and Herbes de Provence and stir.  Add the ham hock, beef stock and red wine and bring to a simmer.  Add the beans and reduce heat to medium-low.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has dissolved (and, if using dried beans, the beans are soft); this will take about 40 minutes for canned beans or about 2 hours for dry beans.  Once the beans are soft, season liberally with salt and pepper.  Serve with steamed rice.  We also had some smoked pork loin leftover from our Saturday afternoons with Weiland's BBQ, and added about 1/2 pound of that, cubed.  Also good with remaining bits of duck confit meat sprinkled over.

Mmm...Duck Fat

  The first of two recipes from Husband.  This is a little amuse bouche involving one of my favorite things: duck cracklins.  At work, it is always enviable to be around anytime duck is being confited, because duck cracklins are just around the corner: thrown in the fryer or toasted in the oven, there is nothing like fried duck skin - fat cooked in fat cooked in fat.

I bought a duck leg confit* at Whole Foods last week, and Husband warmed it up yesterday for these crostinis.  If you double or quadruple this recipe to make for friends, I recommend eating the skin yourself while hiding in the kitchen, and offering the meat on the crostini instead.  There will easily be enough meat on one leg quarter for 10 crostinis.

Crostini with Duck Cracklins - 4 crostinis

1 Duck leg quarter confit (if you have a butcher that sells duck confit in bulk, buy about 8 ounces with fat)

4 small marinated fresh mozzarella balls, cut into quarters (antipasta bar)

4 marinated cherry bomb peppers, cut in half (these are sweet-hot peppers in the antipasta bar at the supermarket, or in the Italian section)

1/4 loaf baguette, sliced into 1" rounds

Place the confited leg skin side down in a warm pan and render, slowly, until some of the fat melts out; place the baguette rounds in the fat and cook until they are lightly toasted, then flip and repeat; set aside. Continue to cook the duck, turning the heat up slowly to medium high, until the skin becomes crispy (this takes about 10-15 minutes).  Remove the skin (carefully, it's hot) and slice.  Place on crostini along with the peppers and mozzarella.  If desired, you can pull the meat from the bone and use it as well, or reserve for another purpose.

*What is confit (pronounced cohn-fee)?  Basically a method of preservation.  Originally, it referred to fruits preserved in sugar, and then grew to include meat preserved in fat.  Meat is cooked slowly in fat, its own or otherwise (these days, usually duck fat or olive oil), and then is stored submerged in the fat.  This method of preserving meat yields meltingly tender, succulent meat that lasts almost indefinitely (okay fine, 6 months just to safe) when refrigerated.  Duck and rabbit are particularly well-suited to confiture.

WCB #19

As I write this, 4 of our 5 regular strays are in the back yard, having a little stare-down to see who will get to the back porch first for lunch.  Winter will be upon us soon, and Husband and I have been discussing various options for making sure they make it through; a dog house maybe?  I'll keep you posted.  Here's the picture for today:  Jingle Ball having a giant yawn whilst catching a few lingering autumn rays.

Today is Mountain Lion protection day in WCB land, so head over to Eat Stuff to make a donation to protect wild cats in America, particularly in the Pacific Northwest.  Here are the others so far:

Check out The Gigolo Kitty writing his memoirs . He has gotten into trouble with a former flame though at Gigolo Kitty
Check out Boo who has taken oven Masak-Masak from her nickname stealing mommy
Check out Nala taste testing her mummy's cooking at Les Carnets de sbmarie
Check out the other cute blue kitties and their paper bag at A few of my favourite things
Check out Jazz and Lixue 2 big beautiful fluff cats at Look Honey, I cooked
Check up on the poor sick Minnaloushe, we all hope she is better soon at Tigers & Strawberries
Check out Keep your fingers crossed for her and Lenas Kitty's who are going to the show at Annes Food

Steak Frites

A quickie but goodie - steak frites.  Entire beef fillets can be tricky for butchers; at some point, the muscle nearly splits in two, creating either two very small fillets (tournedoes), or one rather mishapen one.  Since they can't really sell these as fillets, Weiland's has come up with a nice solution: bistro steaks.  They skewer the fillets with thick wooden skewers for ease when grilling, and sell them in 2 packs for $7.98 a pound.  That's right.  My package contained a little over a pound, and cost $8.33.  Rounded out with Alexia fries (the only good oven fry I think I've ever tried), and I had dinner for two for about $10.50.  Who needs veggies?!  Potatoes are kind of a veggie, aren't they?  Okay, make a salad if you must. 

Smoked Trout Pasta with Sage & Bleu Cream Sauce

I guess this is bowtie pasta week here at the Widow.  I was surprised to open the cupboards for some pasta and find that I had only long noodles or bowties, so bowties it was.  Again.  I love smoked trout in the Autumn, it goes well with so many other autumnal ingredients (sage, hazelnuts, apples, bitter greens).  I make a salad with smoked trout that is also tasty, but that will have to wait for another day.

Aside from waiting for the onions to caramelize for the confit, this pasta comes together really fast; you're really just warming ingredients.  I like to put the onions on and go about my day, keeping one eye on them, and then about 30 minutes later, I get started on the pasta.  Don't be tempted to skip the onions; I think they add a necessary sour balance to the rich cream sauce.  If you don't have the time to make the onion confit, you might want to try a packaged brand, such as the Vidalia onion relish I found at Trader Joe's; it's a little sweeter, but will still accomplish the same task.  Tri-pepper preserve is also a good choice.

Smoked Trout Pasta with Maytag Sage Cream Sauce - serves 2

1 recipe onion confit - but use one whole onion

4 ounces short pasta such as gemelli, bowtie, small penne, etc

1/4 cup hazelnuts

1 cup heavy cream

2 ounces Maytag Bleu or other delicious and salty bleu cheese

15 sage leaves, cut into chiffonade - don't use dried

salt and pepper

Tabasco

1 smoked trout fillet, about 6 ounces

Cook the pasta according to package directions and drain.  Place the hazelnuts in a dry saute pan over medium heat and roast, tossing occasionally, until they release some of their oils and become fragrant (4-5 minutes, be careful, nuts burn very easily).  Set aside to cool, then chop roughly in a food processor or place in a bag and beat with a rolling pin.

Place the cream in a saucepan and bring just to a boil.  Reduce the heat just to keep the cream at a simmer, add the sage, a good pinch of black pepper (cream loves it!), a pinch of salt, and a few dashes Tabasco, and allow to simmer quietly for about 5 minutes.  Crumble in the bleu cheese and the trout; stir until hot; another 5 minutes or so, and toss with the pasta.  Place in bowls and top with chopped hazelnuts and onion confit.  You might want to serve a nice bitter salad or lemon sorbet after - this is super rich.

Sausage and Chicken with Grapes

This dish was inspired by the Zuni Cafe Cookbook, where Judy Rogers uses quail instead of chicken.  Quail was $14 for 4 birds at Whole Foods, and chicken legs were $1.55 for 4, so the chicken won out.  Truly a hearty autumnal celebration dish, as grapes are plentiful right now; the sauce becomes rich and syrupy, melting into the soft polenta.  The bitter green salad, also perfect right now that greens are having their second growing season, is the perfect foil for the meaty richness of the dish.  Avoid overdressing the greens, and don't be afraid of their bitterness; they have such a nice, palate-cleansing taste.  This dish is quite easy and makes a perfect weeknight dinner, especially now that there is a chill in the air.

Chicken and Sausage with Grapes - serves 2-4

Cook one cup of dry polenta according to package directions; I like to add a good pinch of salt, a little cream in addition to the water, and big knob of butter at the end (I said this was hearty and autumnal).

For the bitter green salad:

1 head radicchio, sliced thinly

2-4 heads frisee, depending on size, chopped

good olive oil

good sea salt

Drizzle the greens with just enough olive oil to coat lightly and sprinkle liberally (to taste) with salt.

For the Sauce:

2 tbsp olive oil

large pinch fennel seeds

2 pounds red grapes - I used a blend of huge fat Muscadines - full of flavor with thick, tart skins and perfect for use in savory dishes - and red table grapes.  The table grapes practically melt away, adding a nice sweet roundness to the tarter Muscadines.  Although Zuni recommended leaving the seeds in, Husband and I both thought they got in the way - take the time to remove the seeds.

Heat the oil in a large skillet and add the fennel seeds.  Stir as they toast and pop; when they become fragrant (about three minute - keep a close eye that they don't burn), add the grapes.  Cook over medium heat until the grapes burst and let their juices out; I found this took about an hour, but time will vary greatly depending on the type of grape you use.

For the Chicken and Sausages:

olive oil

4 sweet Italian sausages, make sure they are flavored with fennel seeds

4 chicken legs, thighs or breasts - we wholly prefer dark meat to white, and it is so much cheaper - but your preferences are yours

Chicken stock or water

Heat a little olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add the sausages and brown on all sides, about 2 minutes per side, cook for about 10 minutes and then add the chicken; there should be enough fat rendered from the sausages, but if the pan seems dry, add a little more olive oil, then brown the chicken on all sides.  Cover the pan and cook until cooked through, about 20 minutes.  If the pan becomes dry, add a little chicken stock or water.

When the sausages and chicken have cooked, turn the heat up and add the grapes; stir together to coat everything, and serve over soft polenta with the bitter greens on the side.

Cajun Bowties

  Once upon a time, at the venerable local ale house, Barley's, there was a dish called Cajun Bowties - blackened chicken and shrimp in a spicy Cajun cream sauce with bowtie pasta.  Oh, how I miss it.  Come to think of it, I haven't been to Barley's in awhile.  Must remedy that and write about sauerkraut balls.  But I digress.  Here is my homage to the old Barley's Cajun Bowties.  It turned out pretty well, I felt; cream, with its ability to neutralize heat on the tongue, is a great companion to the Cajun spices.  I used blackening spice and Cajun spice because I had both in the cupboard, but you could use one or the other if you chose.

Why the small picture?  Well, I got a new camera!!! But we are having a bit of a learning curve, truth be told, and so I thought maybe just a peak at the pasta, because you can see from the low level of contrast how it might be a rather boring picture... The recipe, of course, is included in the extended post.

WCB #18

Ike loves to sit on this little table in the foyer (wedding gift from parents - thanks!), because he's higher than the other kitties, who like to pick on him sometimes.  His eyes don't always look this crazy!

Check out the other WCBers:

Kiri gets a head start on dinner at Eat Stuff

Check out the sticky situation that Muse has gotten herself in at Tarzile.com