Restaurant Widow

Durian Update

I mentioned recently that last weekend I picked up a durian at Jungle Jim's.  In case you need a refresher, a durian is a fruit from Southeast Asia; it is about the size of a soccer ball, and has a very spiky exterior.  The fruit is purported to smell of rotting flesh.  Alas, I don't have any pictures (for some pictures of durian, click here).

So how was it?  Well, the outside had a rather pleasant, fruity smell.  Husband opened it at work, and although he won't believe me, I could smell it the moment I walked into the restaurant.  But it wasn't really unpleasant.  The flesh on the inside is rather like custard - custard with a thin skin on top.  The fruit tastes incredibly sweet and yet savory at the same time; almost as if you had baked a creme brulee with caramelized onions in it.  (Hm, but it tasted better than that).  Numerous people tried it, and granted, we were all adventurous restaurant types, but no one found it particularly offensive-smelling, and although none of us are in a rush to go out and buy another one, we all thought it was pretty good.  The texture was a little difficult for me - like if you pushed a banana through a sieve and then thickened it with a little gelatin - but it tasted fine.

So why all the hype?  Husband and I have come up with a few theories.  My prevailing theory is that (and I guess I'm just assuming here, since I have never been to Southeast Asia) the durian grows and is sold in a very hot climate, probably without any refrigeration from harvest to sale.  The heat might make the aroma more intense.  Here, we purchased the durian semi-frozen and kept it refrigerated until we ate it.

Any thoughts?

WCW #38 Further Proof of the Existence of Secret, Underground Cat Hobo Ring

(Click here for original Cat-Hobo theory)

this little wisp of a furball showed up on my porch the other day, out of nowhere.  There wasn't even a dish of food out yet.  Very friendly, sweet and tiny; I'm sure someone is missing her.

Check out Eat Stuff for the rest of the roundup.

Meditation for Late Winter

 

I realize this time of year is important; it gives the soil a time to recup necessary nutrients, allows trees to store energy, and gives some of us the opportunity to sleep in on a Saturday morning.  BUT.  Remember tomatoes? 

Here's a little ray of hope: the first Worthington Farmer's Market is May 13th.  10 1/2 weeks.  I don't care if all they sell are salad greens.  I'll see you there.

Some of last year's meditations:

I'm All Lost in the Supermarket

Why, Peaches?!

Weekend Wrapup

   

I had a great weekend - I got to go to Jungle Jim's, where I purchased the salted French butter pictured above.  For anyone who isn't aware, Jungle Jim's is a giant grocery store partially dedicated to serving the public as such, as in they have typical grocery offerings, and the rest of the store (it really is huge) offers food from around the world, a giant wine and beer selection, lived fish, cheese and sausage from all over, and a number of strange displays of giant singing mechanical animals.  They are even a bonded cellar for a number of big name wine producers (think Dom Perignon and above); you can reserve their cellar for parties.  I have never seen so many varieties of head cheese in one space.  They have an island completely devoted to butter!  They even have a Starbucks and a Maggie Moo's, and it looks as though a restaurant is coming soon.  I even purchased a durian while I was there; we will, of course, discuss the eating thereof as soon as it occurs.  (FYI, a durian is a large, spiky fruit from Southeast Asia that smells like rotting flesh.  Its possession is typically banned in tourist areas.  Ours came frozen with a stern warning from the cashier to not let it thaw, under any circumstances, until we were outside and ready to eat it.)

Then there was the wine!  I learned that some winemakers are so in tune with the earth they can see the grapes glowing when they're ripe (hint, I had his wine at the French Laundry).  I also learned that grapevines need to struggle in order to produce superior fruit (all sorts of touch-feely allegories can be applied here).  I learned that synthetic corks are death to wine, and that Alborino is completely underrated, but of course I already knew that.  I learned that wine grown under Mt. Etna on Sicily smells exactly like ash, and although I already knew this, I learned everybody has their own opinion, and I will have to patiently listen to them for the rest of my life.  (More on all of these things at a later date)

I have also decided to write more about wine; hopefully I won't bore anyone.  I will try to be as educational as possible!  I also need to get back into the kitchen.  Maybe we'll make some Madelines today . . .

Out of Office Notice

Well, I have a busy weekend full of music, food and lots of wine (aren't you jealous?).  First off, this afternoon it's the symphony, complete with the Columbus Symphony's new Director, Junichi Hirokami - I hear he inspires musicians by relating music to food; he sounds good to me - the music du jour will be Dvorak, Carnival Orchestra, Saint-Saens, Piano Concerto No. 2 and Beethoven, Symphony No 5.  The Ohio Theatre has been one of my favorite places in Columbus ever since I can remember. 

Then it's off to Cincinnati for an evening of food and wine talk, and then tomorrow a wine seminar featuring Alborino.  Hopefully in the morning I'll have time to head over to Jungle Jim's - I've never been, but it's really supposed to be an experience.

It will probably be Wednesday before I'm back writing.  To tide you over, here's a picture of monkfish wrapped in rosemary and prosciutto and served with mashed rutabagas and Lisa's best sprouts, taken with my old camera (one megapixel):

Now I'm just off to find something to wear . . .

Weekend Cat Blogging #37

A few of you mentioned how much you miss the weekend cat photos, so I thought I'd bring it back (here a day late, oh well).  Here's a picture of all three cats, getting together in a rare moment - the occasion being the furnace was off and the house was cold.

Ike, Grover J and Abe, from top to bottom.  Check out Eat Stuff for more feline photos.

Various Bits

First of all, nearly to the day of my last visit to Rigsby's (which became one of my first posts), Husband and I ventured there again.  I am happy to report that the deviled eggs were just how I wished they would have been last year, and a steal at $2.  I am going to visit again next week, this time for lunch, and I will have a full report soon. 

In other local dining news, Zola Dining Lounge (782 N High St. in the Short North) closed last week without warning.  I guess my instinct to not review them was right; and here's a tip for would-be restaurateurs, without meaning to sound too snarky:  Don't waltz around the neighborhood telling everyone you're going to put all the other bars out of business.  It makes it very hard for them to feel sorry for you when you're dark on a Friday night and your phone is disconnected.

Mac & Cheese for Grownups

If you haven't watched a lot of Molto Mario or read Italian cookbooks, you might not be familiar with the miracle of pasta water.  The miracle occurs when a spoonful of pasta water is thrown in with the sauce; the starch from the pasta acts as a quick thickener.  Once you try it a few times, I predict you will never again make a sauce without sprinkling a little pasta water over it to finish.  This recipe is a very simple version of that, where the pasta water acts as the binder for a very simple sauce, which can be augmented in many ways; my favorite is red pepper flakes and a little Tabasco.

Semi-Instant Penne and Cheese - serves one, home alone at lunchtime, preferably when it's cold outside.

2 ounces penne, cooked according to package directions

2 tbsp butter

1 tsp red pepper flakes, according to taste

2 ounces freshly grated Parmesan, plus extra for garnish

salt & pepper

Tabasco according to taste

Typically I advocate boiling pasta in heavily salted water; however, since you are going to be reducing this water, us restraint.  Reserve 1/2 cup pasta water before draining, then drain and set aside, returning the pan to high heat.  Melt the butter - you can let it brown a little, if you like, then add the water and the red pepper flakes.  Reduce by half (about 2 minutes) and then add the cheese, stirring to melt; add the pasta and stir vigorously to coat.  Taste for salt.  Season accordingly with salt and pepper, add a little Tabasco if desired, and garnish with a little more Parmesan.  Mmmm.  Soothing.

Celebrity Chefs Help Save Animals Not as Lucky as Mine

I received this press release from the Capital Area Humane Society - I'll see you there!!

Fourth Annual Celebrity Chef: “Destination Dishes” to benefit CAHS 

(Columbus, OH) – Join the Capital Area Humane Society at the exclusive Huntington Club in the Ohio Stadium on Thursday, March 23, 2006 from 6-9 p.m. to experience the tastiest event of 2006.

The Huntington Club at The Ohio Stadium will be the place to be for the Fourth Annual Celebrity Chef Event, which features some of Columbus’ most honored celebrities dishing out their favorite recipes for you! Television personalities, restaurant owners, influential notables, athletes, government leaders and even those who are well-known for their publicized antics will be present. You will be able to sample our Celebrities culinary masterpieces and participate in a silent auction and raffle for an opportunity to win great prizes, with all the proceeds going to the Humane Society. Live music will also be provided by Blue Level. Marshall McPeek and Beth Dal Ponte from NBC-4 are emcees for the event. 

Tickets can be purchased online at http://www.cahs-pets.org/ for $30 for members and $35 for non-members. Patron tickets are available in advance for $50 and include name listing in the event program, if purchased by March 1.

Corporate Sponsorships are also available for $600 or $1000 and include admission for ten. 

Can’t make it to the event? The Capital Area Humane Society is always accepting donations to ensure the health and safety of neglected, homeless and abused animals from our community. 

Please call (614) 777-7387, ext. 233 for more information.

Capital Area Humane Society, a non-profit animal welfare organization founded in 1883, is dedicated to addressing the needs of animals and people in our community.

Salt Cod Brandade

 

I am constantly fascinated by the methods our ancestors discovered for preserving food - duck confit (cooked and stored in its own fat), for instance, is a minor miracle.  Salt cod (baccala) is not quite as revered today as duck confit in gourmet circles (yet), but we owe a lot to salt cod.  Without it, a lot of us probably wouldn't be here (for more about this, you might want to check out Cod by Mark Kurlansky).

Salt cod is precisely how it sounds; salted cod.  The salt creates a cure that allows the cod to stay edible for long periods of time, similar to lox (cured salmon).  Unlike lox, however, the cod must be de-salted for a period of hours to days before it can be prepared.  Once desalted, the cod bears a striking resemblance to fresh cod, but has a richer and more savory, but not overly salty, favor.

Rich with garlic, cream and olive oil, tempered with lemon juice, topped with a 3 minute egg, if desired, salt cod brandade is an inexpensive appetizer that is perfect for cold winter nights.  Salt cod is available at better supermarkets and specialty stores.  Locally, I know you can purchase it at Curds & Whey in the North Market.  Don't forget to plan ahead; you'll have to soak the cod 30 hours or so.  If you are unsure if your cod is adequately de-salted, slice off a small piece and cook it in a saute pan, then taste.

Salt Cod Brandade - serves 6-8 as an appetizer

1 1/2 pound piece salt cod

2 large baking potatoes

3-6 cloves garlic, ground into paste or pushed through garlic mincer

1/2 - 3/4 cup good extra virgin olive oil

1 cup heavy cream

juice of 2 lemons, separated

4-6 tbsp butter

Place the cod in a wide, shallow dish and cover with cold water.  Place in refrigerator and soak for about 30 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. 

Wrap the potatoes in foil and bake at 350 for 1 hour or until soft, remove and scoop the flesh into a large bowl, along with 3 cloves of garlic (up to 6, depending on your taste); mash well.

While the potatoes are baking, place the de-salted cod into a large saucepan and cover with cold water.  Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to medium; simmer for 10 minutes, then remove a piece of cod and test to see if is cooked through and will flake.  If it passes the test, turn the heat off and cover the pot; allow to soak for 10 more minutes.  If it isn't quite ready, give it another 5 minutes.  Remove the cod and place on paper towels to drain.

Place the cream in a small sauce pan and heat over medium heat, just to warm through.

Flake the cod into the bowl containing the potato and garlic and stir slightly to combine.  Add about 1/4 cup olive oil and stir, then add 1/4 cup cream, and stir.  Continue this process, alternating between oil and cream, until you reach a slightly stiff but spreadable Constancy.  Stir in the juice of one lemon, then taste and add more garlic if necessary.  Stir well and place the cod in a large, ovenproof container, or in individual ramekins, if desired. 

Preheat the broiler.  Place dots of butter over the cod and broil for about 10 minutes, or until the top is nicely browned.  Remove and squeeze juice from the other lemon over the top.  If desired, you can serve the cod with a soft-boiled egg, as I did in the picture; however, the brandade doesn't really need the extra richness.

Serve with toast points (my crostini were made from baguettes from Eleni Christina, in the Short North; I sliced them thinly and then tossed them with good extra virgin olive oil and kosher salt, then spread them on a baking sheet and put them under the broiler with the cod).