This is one of our favorite wines, and here's Husband to tell you about it (as usual, words with an asterisk are defined at the end):
2003 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos
For centuries, the fame of Portugal's Douro Valley has rested squarely upon the shoulders
of its sweet fortified wine, Port. Here, under the raging Portuguese sun on terraced Schistous* slopes, grapes reach incredible ripeness. In the the finest examples, the wines seem to exude the very warmth and stony soils from which they came. For all intents and purposes, this should be prime territory for dry red wines as well. Sadly, they have lagged behind in quality and have stayed off the radar of most wine drinkers. And for good reason, the few wines that have made it to the market are often shy on fruit, over rustic and short on charm.
The Lavradores de Feitoria was started in 2000 with the help of Dirk Niepoort of the port house Niepoort. This is a collective of 15 quality-minded growers spread throughout the Douro Valley. Each year, they produce a blend which represents a cross section of the three regions, or Bagos*, of the Douro Valley. It's a typical Douro blend; primarily Touriga Nacional with bits of Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz*.
The question inevitably arises, "Does it taste like dry port?" We, yes and no. The undeniable stamp of the soil and grape are there. It has Touriga Nacional's vibrant black raspberry, purple flower, herbal scents and flavor-enhancing acidity and broad-hewn structure. There is a pervasive stony minerality typical of schist-grown wines. There's also an uncanny balance - not the fearsome and fiery interplay of alcohol, tannin and extract which carries port through decades of life, but the careful interplay of fruit, tannin, richness and minerality which makes for an infinitely drinkable wine. It's packed with black raspberry, roasted fruit, licorice and stony notes. The palate is both packed with dense, brooding fruit and kept weightless by bright, fresh fruit and acidity.
2003 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos, $15.99 retail (Ohio), an Eric Solomon/European Cellars selection
Glossary
Bagos (Locations): here, they are Baixo Corgo, which is relatively cool and wet, the Cima Corgo, warm and dry with many terraced vineyards, and the Douro Superior, mostly arid and dry.
Schist: Not so much a soil as a soil type - a metamorphic rock in the same family as slat which fractures easily. The often deep fractures allow for extensive rood penetration and protections from drought.
Touriga Nacional: Classic red wine grape used for still and port wine production. Extensively grown in the Douro and Dao regions of Portugal and other hot climates worldwide. Growth is vigorous, yet yields are low with good sugar levels. It is the premier grape for port.
Touriga Franca: Also know as Touriga Francesca. A natural cross between Touriga Nacional and another unknown local variety. Ripens early with very tight clusters rich in phenols (an acidic compound with contributes to the aroma of the wine).
Tinta Barroca: Native red wine variety grown in the Douro region, mostly used in wine or port blends because of its high alcohol and low acid. Early ripening, this variety does best in cooler climates with high elevation.
Tinta Roriz: Another name for the Tempranillo grape of Spain.
