Restaurant Widow

Scenes from Asian Festival

(I can't even begin to describe the size of this wok.  I could have taken a bath in it.)  Sunday was hot and sunny.  Really hot.  And really sunny.  I got my first sunburn of the year.  Husband and I had this brief thought that we might ride our bicycles to Franklin Park - it's about 4 miles, not too bad, but I suggested it might be too hot.  Wise choice, as while we were walking around dripping, I told Husband I would still be crying on the side of the road like a cranky cooked lobster if we had decided to ride.  At first, the crowds seemed a little sparse, but then you noticed that there was just no one in the sunny areas of the park, everyone was crammed into the shade. 

But the food!  We tried many tasty bits.  I was a little sad we arrived too late for any of this unlucky pig, because everyone knows roasted whole pig is one of the most delicious things on earth:

We had pork BBQ and pork egg rolls from the Filipino Society:

We had Samosa (potato-filled fried pastry, it's the triangular one) and Vada (lentil dumpling), along with yummy sauces and chutneys from Ruchi Foods, and then Jamum for dessert (second picture); a dessert made from sweetened condensed milk and flour, which is fried and soaked in rosewater and cardamom syrup.  It is intensely floral and completely unfamiliar:

We had Spicy Laotian sausage and a spring roll:

And for second dessert, we had fried bananas and a sesame ball filled with pistachio paste, from Indonesia Ohio:

The next great festival for eating in Columbus (please, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, I know you will) is Festival Latino, which takes place June 16th and 17th.  The food and dancing at Festival Latino is the stuff of legend, and it's where those cute boys from El Arepazo got their start.  Alas, I will be in North Carolina, so someone will have to fill me in on the juicy, Cuban pork-covered details.

Praying Mantis Update

Pretty soon, I will have my own zoo, and will move from food writing into full-time animal writing.  At any rate, I promised to update on the praying mantis nest, and I couldn't believe it when I was working in the kitchen this morning and happened to look over at the nest and it was hatching!  Husband informed me that hardly any of the babies will make it past this stage, and warned that it is kind of a mistake to think that all of these praying mantises (mantisae?) will continue to live in the yard and eat bugs, as they are very territorial and if any survive, probably only one will stay.  Well, it was interesting anyway! 

First CSA Box and Market Report

I finally got to meet my CSA farmer this week, Sandy Sterret from Elizabeth Telling Farms.  She was surrounded by other people so we didn't really have a chance to talk, but I think I like her already; if my mom were a farmer with a CSA, this is how she would operate: everything perfectly organized and flawlessly executed.  Behind the farm stand are 5 stacks of identical and perfect wooden crates - not the shipping kind, but a neat, stacking kind, and each one is clearly numbered on each side.  Identify your crate and remove its contents.  This week's box even contained a surprise - a canvas market bag with the Elizabeth Telling Farm logo embroidered on the side!  How nice!  As far as edibles, this week's box contained radishes, spinach, ramps (yum!), scallions, lettuce mix, and 1/2 dozen eggs.  So far, I have only tasted the eggs, which were as delicious as promised - and the yolks!  The yolks are HUGE.  I took a picture of the eggs in a frying pan, but you still can't really see how big the yolks are.  I am looking forward to the weeks to come!

Aside from the CSA box, I continue my campaign to eat my weight in asparagus (we should still have 2 weeks left, sources tell me).  I got these lovely yellow oyster mushrooms for a song - surely they will make their way into some hot butter soon . . .

I also bought the item pictured below, which I was going to buy as a decoration for the house (I don't normally buy these sorts of things, but Husband is a Bug Man), but quickly learned it was a praying mantis nest!  I was told to place the stick in the yard and wait for it to hatch (the farmers promised me the squirrels wouldn't eat it, but we'll see about that); praying mantises are predators and will (hopefully) keep bugs out of the garden.  Husband, of course, having studied entomology in school, knew exactly what it was and said "Just wait till it hatches!  You won't believe it!"  I will keep you posted.

 

Sources: 

CSA from Elizabeth Telling Farms, probably full but PO box 178, Barnesville, OH 43713 (also has a stand at the North Market Farmer's Market)

Oyster Mushroom from Toby Run Farm 419-886-4570 (from the North Market Farmer's Market)

Praying Mantis Nest from Somerset Herbs, 740-743-3010 (also at the North Market Farmer's Market)

WCB #51!! - Still More Tinies, Week 5

Well, it is hard to believe these little rascals are 5 weeks old!  They have all managed to escape the confines of the basket and are now running around - so far, only in the "feline nursery," but soon, all over the house, I am sure.  It will be hard to see them go, but unless I want to be on the news as that lady who has all the cats removed from her house by force, they must go.  If I were to keep any, it would be the first onepictured, who I have named Yoda, although she's a girl.  She was the "runt" of the litter and is the tiniest.  I wasn't even sure she was going to make it, but now she is by far the friendliest kitty, always running to greet anyone who enters the room, and she has these enormous Yoda ears.  She's a Jedi Mistress.  Enjoy!!  Visit Clare for everyone else's feline adventures.

Sweet Potato Pie

Even though it was threatening rain today, I managed to stroll through the Pearly Alley Market for a bit.  I saw someone carrying a lovely flower arrangement and I had my heart set on one for myself, but they seemed to be sold out by the time I got to the flower/farmer end.  Ah, well.

I did, however, have my first piece of My Mama's Sweet Potato Pie!  (I made my very own sweet potato pie this past winter - the first one I'd ever tasted - and ran it by a few sweet potato pie aficionados who thought that, although pretty good for a white northerner, it lacked the crucial ingredient - nutmeg.) Well, this sweet potato pie had just the right amount of nutmeg.  I think I like sweet potato pie.  It's not too sweet, so you could almost justify having it for breakfast, like I did (I was still enjoying my morning coffee).

My Mama's Sweet Potato Pie is a local operation, stated by Marvin Swain in 1986.  They supply pies to Kroger stores and even team up with Jeni's Ice Cream for a seasonal ice cream around Thanksgiving.  The man who sells it at the Pearl Alley Market is just about as charming as the pie!  Slices are $2 apiece, a steal considering you can buy one for an afternoon soul-satisfying pick-me-up and avoid the office vending machine altogether.  Pearl Alley sells only the original variety, but you can also pick up lemon, coconut, pecan and pineapple from their Livingston Avenue location (across Parsons from Children's Hospital).

Info:  My Mama's Sweet Potato Pie 813 E. Livingston Ave 614.444.4282, also available at Kroger stores in Columbus and Cincinnati, and at the Pearl Alley Market on Tuesdays and Fridays, 10:30am - 2pm.

Some Notes About Reviewing

Local food critics (not yours truly) will be on Open Line tomorrow morning on 820 AM.  Count the Rigsby references.

It came up recently at work how most of the reviews in Columbus publications are either fine or good; you rarely see a really bad review.  I think it was John Champlin from Columbus Monthly who recently said if he went somewhere that was just really terrible, they would just not review it.  I agree with this to a point (and he might have made the point, but since I can't remember the entire context, I am pretty sure it was on Open Line on 820).

I recently went to a Thai restaurant on the Southeast side.  I grew up just north of Dublin, so I am not that familiar with the East/Southeast side, because it would have meant an hour drive for me growing up.  Nonetheless, I thought I should venture out of my comfort zone and take I70 towards Wheeling for a change.  This restaurant came highly recommended but I didn't really like it.  Certain things about it were good - the coconut curry broth was good, but the beef was just sub-standard beef.  I was dining solo, and there weren't really any small plates to try, and I didn't feel that my one bad dish was enough upon which to base a review, so I just decided not to write about it.

However, I felt no qualms giving Handke's a C last year because they are touted as one of the best restaurants in the city, and Chef Handke is always winning these international chef competitions and everything, and he's Columbus' only certified Master Chef, and all the other critics are busy kissing his derriere, and I would expect more. 

Which brings me to my second point.  There are no objective paid reviews in Columbus, because there are no incognito restaurant reviewers in Columbus.  Believe me because I work at one of the "Top 20" restaurants in Columbus, and we know who they all are.  There is a flurry of activity every time one of them enters the restaurants.  They get free food, they get the best - and largest - cuts of meat, they usually get one server assigned to them; so, if they say the service was bad, then you can count on that at least.  And, no matter what they say in their credos, they usually give the chef a heads up they are coming in.

One local restaurant reviewer even has sample bottles of wine delivered to his house.  This is (I believe, as he does not have a liquor license to sell the wine) illegal and, I shouldn't even have to point out, unethical.  The former reviewer for the Dispatch, Doral Chenoweth, aka the Grumpy Gourmet, had a strict policy against receiving anything free, and I respect him for that.  If you follow the link and read the entire post, you will notice how the Grump recalls calling wine distributors with demands to reclaim cases of wine they had dropped off.  It makes me sad that we now have a reviewer in the city who calls distributors and asks for various wines to be delivered privately. 

There are certain restaurants about which I couldn't be fair enough for a review, such as Alana's.  I used to work for her, and consider her a friend, and because we have been dining there so long, I try to only chronicle my experiences there, versus actually critique anything (in writing, that is). 

There are many restaurants and products which I don't care for, believe me.  However, I don't always see the value in letting everyone know my opinions (listen, and you can hear my coworkers roaring with laughter).  Not that I have the readership of the Columbus Dispatch by any stretch, but I'm not in a position at this time where I feel I can blast someone's hard work, especially if they are a small business or a start-up.

I have no problem deconstructing those who tout themselves as "the best, " and then consistently fail to live up to that.  Rigsby's is a perfect example of a restaurant which is constantly receiving rave reviews from Columbus reviewers (remember - they are all well-known to the chef and staff) yet I have had numerous mediocre-at-best experiences there.  My perceptions might also be tainted by the fact that I am paying for everything I consume, and not a newspaper or magazine.  It is really difficult for me to spend $150 on dinner for two and just think everything is "okay."

I loved Ruth Reichl's Garlic and Sapphires, because she put a lot of effort into seeing how restaurants treated her differently when she was Ruth Reichl, compared with how she was treated when she became some ignorant loud woman in New York on vacation.  I feel like I have a good grasp on what the average person gets when they go to any given restaurant.  I'm not cheap, I'm nice, I can (usually) choose a bottle of wine with some intelligence, and above all, I'm average.  Average looking, making the average amount of money, although I can be accused of wearing the same jeans/tee shirt/cardigan ensemble every day (in rotating colors).  That being said, I have been in the restaurant industry since age 15, and have an above-average understanding of its workings.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, no matter how many "legitimate" food magazines try to downplay the importance of food blogs, I think they are quickly becoming the go-to guide for the average person.  Well, I think my readers are above-average.  Not everyone wants to hear how the well-known food critic's experience was, because it isn't real.  It's not the same experience you are going to have, I promise you as an industry insider. 

Here are just a few of my guidelines - whenever possible, I try to visit a restaurant twice and eat as many things as possible.  Sometimes, this just isn't feasible because, remember, I am paying for it.  For example, our dinner at Handke's was somewhere around $400.  I just can't do that twice in a short amount of time.  I am discreet when taking photos and would never tell a server I was reviewing (that's just tacky).  I try not to take notes except if I am somewhere very ethnic and I don't know the language (Jai Yun comes to mind.)  I am completely unknown in most restaurants, so I make the reservations in my name.  Every once in awhile, I do get a free appetizer, drink or bottle of wine, mainly because Husband and I have been working in restaurants in Central Ohio for years and we know a few bartenders, but I would always make that known in the review.  If I ever receive any free wine, it is because Husband is in charge of a wine list, does work in an establishment which holds a liquor license, and might offer some of it to me to get my average person opinion. 

One last point - I would like to thank everyone who donates through "Tip Jar" and buys from Amazon.com through my website (I receive a small percentage of the purchase).  That money goes directly into making this website better and giving more restaurant reviews, something I know everyone wants. 

Thanks for reading and for your continued support; I am always open to suggestions, and you can leave comments or e-mail me through the link provided in the upper left corner of my site. 

New Products from This Week's Markets

I found two great products this week at the markets I thought I'd share. 

First up, from the Clintonville Farmer's Market, this yummy Magik Granola Company Blueberry Flaxseed etc. This granola is made from all organic products - many of them locally produced - and it's full of good things like flaxseed, spelt flour, almonds and dried blueberries.  It's a little pricey at $5 a bag, but there's no shortage of goodness.  I've been enjoying it every morning over my favorite Fage Greek Yogurt with a drizzle of Italian Sunflower honey (it was local when Husband bought it in Italy).  Good and good for you. 

Next up, from the Worthington Market, Jam from Sweet Thing.  I believe Sweet Thing is new to the market this year, and she wins with her great packaging and interesting flavors.  Best yet, her jams come in small packages, perfect for a girl whose Husband won't eat it and always ends up throwing half of it away.  I chose Cherry Cognac, which is a tad sweeter than I typically like my cherry preserves (lip-puckeringly tart), but the cognac gives it a nice little punch to balance the sugar.  Now if I could just remember to buy some English muffins, I'd be all set.

Now I've given you some things to look out for at this week's markets.  I receive my first CSA from Elizabeth Telling Farms this Saturday, and I'll be sure to give you the full report.  I was told the other day that the CSA price is worth it for the eggs alone, which are apparently something to treasure, and are only available to her members.  I hear ramp and asparagus omelets calling me all the way from Saturday!!

Things to Do This Week in Columbus

Don't forget the Pearl Alley Market started on Friday; sadly, it was cold and rainy, but today it's beautiful so get out there for your lunch hour!  The Pearl Market Alley, which takes place at Pearl and Lynn Alleys, just south of Gay street, every Tuesday and Friday from 10:30pm to 2:00pm.  Although there might not be a lot of farmers there yet, you can buy fresh bread and pastries from a few area bakeries, as well as My Mama's Sweet Potato Pie and Urban Chef's BBQ sauces.  Some farmers are selling plants and flowers, and there are all manner of craftspeople selling jewelry, pottery, handbags, etc.  There is usually live music, which is also fun, and makes you feel like you should be lounging around with a cocktail.

This weekend is also Asian Festival, one of my favorite festivals for eating.  The Asian festival offers goods for sale as well as health and career services; there are demonstrations of traditional dance, music and martial arts, but best of all, food!!  And there is lots of it.  Whatever you fancy from Thai to Cambodian is represented.  The Asian Festival takes place at Franklin Park Conservatory this Saturday from 10am - 9pm and Sunday from 11am - 7pm.

WCB #50 - Tinies, Week 4

Well, it's that time of the week again, to take a break from food and talk about cats.  And I certainly have a lot of cats about which to talk!  The tinies are now so full of energy they're hard to photograph - they won't sit still long enough!  Amazingly, they still have not ventured beyond their basket, but that will end any day now.  I am happy to report that I believe they all have homes!  In fact, at this point we have more homes than tinies, so we can afford to be choosy.  Enjoy their cuteness, and check out Clare over at Eat Stuff to see this week's other cuties.

Ha Long Bay

  It's too bad that a gem like Ha Long Bay is located in that northernmost suburb of Columbus, a good 20 minute drive from me.  What?  Polaris/Lewis Center isn't the northernmost suburb?  Delaware is?  I stand corrected.  At this rate, we'll eventually reach Toledo.  But I digress, as usual.

Ha Long Bay is tucked away in an unassuming strip mall on Sancus Blvd, just south of Polaris drive.  Back when I was a wee lass, we called this area the "sticks."  Now there's a Sephora across the street.  Progress! 

I have this love of Vietnamese food.  I love the balance and the harmony and the strange, French influence.  I love the wrapping of finger foods with lettuce and basil leaves, I love the plates of condiments and the Sriracha on everything.  Once upon a time, I discovered Vietnamese food at the now-defunct Vietnam Restaurant on Bethel Road, and I have longed for good Vietnamese ever since.  Enter Ha Long Bay, recently opened and sadly a long drive for me, in the opposite direction from work, with gas prices what they are.  It took me 2 weeks to revisit it to conclude my review.  (Okay, I've just mapquested it and it's really only 10 miles from me.  The same distance as Whole Foods.  I will stop whining now.)

The nice thing about Ha Long Bay is their large selection of smaller dishes - each time I went I was able to try three menu items plus hot tea for under $20, with leftovers.  Perfect for someone like me who gets bored eating the same thing over and over.  I tried two varieties of fresh spring rolls (fresh spring rolls are rolled in softened rice wrappers and served cold, whereas egg rolls are wrapped in traditional flour dough and fried); the Ha Long Roll, filled with white fish and shrimp (pictured right), and the deliciously sweet summer roll (pictured at the top of the post), featuring mango and avocado.  Both rolls included the traditional filler of thin rice noodles, carrots, and lettuce, and my favorite, the added crunch of fried bits of wonton skins.  Rolls were served with Nouc Leo, a sweetish/spicy Vietnamese peanut-based dipping sauce.

Hot and Sour Soup was rocket-hot temperature-wise, owing to a large layer of chili oil on top.  This hot and sour soup is completely unrelated to the Chinese version, here containing only enough broth to be called a soup, the rest of the bowl taken up with chunks of white fish, tomatoes, bamboo shoots, okra, mung bean sprouts, onions, basil, and pineapple for sweetness.  At first I wished it would be spicier, but the spice grew as I ate, always kept in check - in the Vietnamese way - by the sweet basil and pineapple bits.  The soup tasted fresh and housemade with care.

Bo La Lot is beef wrapped with wilted betal leaves, something I have never had.  After a little research, it seems that betal is an aromatic - if slightly bitter - leaf which seems to be used to cure all manner of ailments and can be chewed as a breath freshener.  Here it provided a unique flavor profile, slightly bitter and pepper yet aromatically sweet at the same time. Although not spice, the beef benefited from the soothing affect of its bed of slivered, vinegared cucumbers and greens.

Rice crepes - banh, might be one of my new favorite things.  Although I knew I should have tried a steamed variety, I was much more intrigued by the banh xeo (bon see-OW), the pan fried option.  Here, a crepe is made from rice flour, coconut milk and pureed mung beans - it gets its color from turmeric, not from eggs - and panfried on one side.  The result is a crisp outer layer with an almost creamy inner layer, filled with shrimp, pork and vegetables.  The crepe is served with lettuce, basil and cilantro leaves; cut a piece of crepe and wrap it with the leaves.  Add a little of the Nuoc Cham dipping sauce - a slightly sour dipping sauce containing carrots, endlessly interpreted yet essential to the Vietnamese table.  It was heaven hot from the pan.  This is traditional Vietnamese street food.

I tried one of the lunch items, the curry noodles with shrimp.  The shrimp seemed to be an afterthought - there were only two - but the noodles were so good and full of other things I didn't mind.  Wide rice noodles are covered very lightly in mild curry sauce and stir-fried with with carrots, celery, onions, scallions and bean sprouts.  The dish wasn't very spicy, but there is always a nice little pot of garlic chili paste on the table if necessary.

I have heard the housemade lemonade is lovely, but not until my second visit, and my very young (under 21) but nice server (who, by the way, told me my guess was as good as his on pronunciation) offered only pink lemonade, so I stuck to the hot green tea (jasmine and oolong are also offered).  On the first visit, my server was a very knowledgeable and polite woman, happy to help with pronunciations.  Food on both visits came out fast and hot and service was efficient.

Why didn't I try pho?  I don't know.  Next time, I promise, and I'll keep you updated.

I might have mentioned before that I do not like cilantro, which can be a roadblock to eating Vietnamese food, so I was relieved to discover that Ha Long Bay relies heavily on mint and sweet basil to balance their flavors, and less so on cilantro.

Those of you living or working on the North side are lucky to have Ha Long Bay in your neighborhood, so support them.  They seem to do a lively carryout business for the many offices nearby.  Try the pho and let me know how it goes.

Info:  Ha Long Bay Asian Kitchen  8489 Sancus Blvd Polaris/North Columbus  614.436.4087

completely arbitrary grade:  B

To read my review of Lac Viet, complete with bad camera tiny pictures, click here.