Early Summer Vegetable Risotto

Peas are always considered a Spring vegetable, and while that might be true in other parts of the country, here in Central Ohio they come around mid-June.  Since my CSA box contained a large bunch of shelling peas this week, I thought I'd add some shitake mushrooms and make the "Spring Vegetable" risotto I've had milling about my brain for a few weeks now.  The problem with peas is their rapid change once picked - faster than almost any other vegetable, peas begin converting their sugar to energy the moment they are picked.  This means by the time they get to you in the supermarket they are usually bitter and barely edible.  It is for this reason that I am an advocate of frozen peas; the peas are picked an quick-frozen at the peek of their sweetness, and most of that is preserved until cooking.  If, however, you purchase fresh shelling peas from a farmer and eat them immediately, you will be rewarded with the sweet and delicate flavor of fresh peas.  You can, of course, substitute frozen peas in this recipe if you so choose.

I have the parents in town this weekend, and made enough risotto to feed an army last night, and have pared the recipe down to serve 4.  This recipe may sound backwards, but you want to prepare the mushrooms and the finishing ingredients for the risotto before you begin stirring, because once you are chained to the risotto pot, there's no turning away.  You will be handsomely rewarded, though, I promise. 

Early Summer Vegetable Risotto with Lemon - serves 4

For the mushrooms:

2 tbsp butter

1/2 pound shitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps slivered

1/4 cup white wine

salt and pepper

Melt the butter over medium heat and add the mushrooms, tossing to coat; cook for about 3 minutes, or until the butter is absorbed by the mushrooms and they are beginning to soften, then add the white wine, a pinch of salt and some pepper to taste.  When the wine has been absorbed, taste a mushroom to check for seasoning.  Removed from heat just before they are finished cooking - they should still have their shape - and save for later.

Cream mixture for risotto:

1/2 cup heavy cream or half and half

2 egg yolks

zest and juice of one lemon

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for garnish

good pinch of salt

a few good grinds of black pepper

Combine ingredients with a whisk and set aside.

For the peas (if using fresh):

Shell 1/2 pound fresh peas and boil rapidly for 15 minutes, checking after 10 minutes for doneness.  Drain and set aside. 

For the Risotto:

6 cups vegetable or chicken stock

4 tbsp butter, divided in half

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large shallot, minced

1 rib celery, minced

2 cloves garlic, pressed

1 1/2 cups arborio rice

3/4 cup white wine

salt

Place the stock in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer.  This pan should be on the burner behind your risotto pan.  Place a 6-8 ounce ladle in the stock.

In a large, wide skillet or Dutch oven, combine the olive oil and 2 tbsp of the butter.  Once the butter has melted, add the shallot and celery and cook until soft, about 5 minutes.  Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute or so, being careful not to burn.  Add the remaining 2 tbsp of butter and the rice.  Toast the rice, stirring constantly, until it becomes mostly translucent, with just a little pearl of white showing in the center.  This takes about 5 minutes.  Add the wine and stir until it is absorbed.  Now get your stirring arm in gear.  Add one ladleful of stock and stir until it is absorbed.  Repeat this process - adding a ladleful of stock and stirring until it is absorbed (this can take 2-4 minutes) for about 20 minutes, adding a little salt after about 10 minutes, checking the rice once it starts to turn white.  If using frozen peas, add them with a ladleful of stock after about 15 minutes.  You might not use all of the stock, or you might have to add a little water to your stock if it is getting low.  The rice is ready when the entire mixture has a very creamy consistency and each rice kernel is firm and slightly chewy, but not powdery or hard in the center.  Stir in the reserved peas.  Turn the heat off and gradually add the cream and egg mixture, stirring constantly to ensure the eggs won't scramble.  Stir well to combine and place in a bowl.  Top with the shitake mushrooms and garnish with a little more black pepper and some more Parmesan cheese.  Hopefully you'll have enough leftover to fry up tomorrow!

Local resources for this recipe:

Peas from Elizabeth Telling CSA, although they are at every farmer's market this time of year

Shitake Mushrooms from Toby Run Growers, every Saturday at the North Market

Amish Butter from Weiland's Gourmet Market, the Anderson's or Yutzy's Farm Market

Last year around this day, we were making Grilled Vegetable Salad.  Yum!