Date: April 04, 2005
It's been a while since I have been so excited over the potential of a newcomer to the Columbus restaurant scene. It might be the fact that I am still under the influence of lots of pork jus, but I foresee a lot of revisits to Skillet in my future.
The Space and Ambiance
Skillet opened very quietly about 3 weeks ago in the small space formerly occupied by Banana Bean, which moved to a new location on Greenlawn. The space has been simplified it seems, with an expanded but still modest kitchen, and about 8 tables offering a cozy dining experience.
On the Menu
The menu at Skillet Rustic Urban Food immediately suggests that the kitchen has a deep respect for ingredients and a flair for comforting but inventive combinations.
The Porchetta Sandwich Experience
Looking over the menu, the porchetta sandwich stood out as a must-try. Skillet's version is succulent and tender, seasoned with garlic and aromatic herbs. Served on ciabatta doused with pork braising jus, this sandwich is a true testament to their mission statement: "Seasonal, farm to table comfort classics with an edge."
The sides, including roasted Yukon gold potatoes with "burnt ends" and roasted beets with goat cheese and almonds, were equally remarkable in their simplicity and flavor.
Breakfast Risotto: A Cure for the Unseasonable Chill
The breakfast risotto with mascarpone and peaches was the centerpiece for a cold and dreary morning, providing a rich and comforting start to the day. The molasses and coffee in the red-eye gravy provided a complex bitter counterpoint, proving that Skillet is indeed ingredient-driven with complex flavors yet remains unpretentious and uncluttered.
Gift of Patience
With such culinary treasures being prepared in a compact space, patrons of Skillet are reminded and invited to indulge in patience. Good things, as they say, come to those who wait, and the wait at Skillet promises a reward that is well worth it.
Skillet's Bright Future
This family operation, led by a father and son chef team, exhibits a clear vision that promises growth and evolution. Despite being new to the scene, they already deeply understand the dining ecosystem of Columbus, and their philosophy on food shines brilliantly through their offerings.
Final Thoughts and Recommendations
While suggesting a simple bitter green salad to balance out their rich offerings, there is the potential for even more innovation, such as the addition of marrow bones to the menu. That being said, Skillet effortlessly lives up to their description of providing seasonal, farm to table comfort food with an edge.
Visit Information
For those eager to experience the warmth and culinary delight of Skillet:
Location: 410 E Whittier (German Village, Schumacher)
Contact: 614.443.2266
Hours: Visit Skillet's social media for the latest hours and updates.
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