Cheesy Grits with Bacon

It's a shame I spent so much of my life in fear of grits.  In my old age, I've even begun to think fondly of the mush my mom used to fry up, doused with a little maple syrup.  Of course, no one can make grits like my good friends at G. Michael's, but we can try.  Anson Mills is a great source for grits, although there are also local resources for grits; in a few weeks, Quiver Full Farms will be selling coarse cornmeal at the North Market (in addition to numerous wheat varieties, oatmeal, and granola).  Because cornmeal contains natural oils, it can go off rather quickly.  For this reason, I find it is best stored in the freezer, where it will keep at least 6 months.  You can use any kind of cornmeal to make grits, although I prefer a coarser grind; this keeps the texture more interesting, and prevents that "Cream of Wheat" consistency you see a lot in grits.

Under no circumstances should you use instant grits.  As a matter of fact, Anson Mills suggests you cook their grits for 90 minutes - their "quick cooking" grits take 50 minutes.  Cooking grits properly ensures a smooth, nearly custardy texture.  Of course, this is for soft or creamy grits.  Cooking grits for grilling or frying is something else altogether, and we'll discuss that soon.

There are about as many ways to cook grits as there are cooks to cook them - a friend of mine insisted they should be cooked in a double boiler for hours.  I haven't tried his method.  That might be a subject for another day. 

I prefer the following method which was taught to me by my former chef (although he would have added a good dose of cream, which I left out).

Cheesy Grits with Bacon - serves 4

1 cup cornmeal
2-3 Tbsp butter
4 ounces cheese - cheddar, Gouda or Gruyere - I used my aged Gouda from Oakvale Farms, and it was perfect - grated, plus a little extra for garnish
4 strips thick bacon, cut into lardons and cooked in a pan until crisp, then drained
4 scallions, white and green parts, cut into thin disks
1 pint grape tomatoes, halved, for serving
Salt & Pepper
Tabasco, for serving

Use a 1 to 4 ratio for soft grits: one cup of cornmeal to 4 cups water.  Bring the water to a boil and add a little salt (typically, I would add a lot of salt, but we are going to add bacon and cheese at the end, so go easy).  Gradually add the cornmeal in a steady stream, stirring constantly with a whisk.  Continue whisking until the mixture comes back to a boil and begins to thicken.  Turn the heat to low and cover, stirring occasionally, and cook for about an hour to an hour and a half, until the texture is soft and smooth and there is little "grittiness."  Stir in a good knob of butter and add the cheese.  Stir well.  Place the grits into bowls and top with the bacon, tomatoes, scallions, and a little grated cheese.  Grate some black pepper over and serve with Tabasco on the side.

Cheesy grits make an especially nice accompaniment to pork dishes.

Local Sources for This Recipe:
Amish butter can be found at Weiland's and the Ansderson's
Locally produce Oakvale Farms Cheese can be purchased at the North Market Farmer's market on Saturdays, inside everyday at Curds & Whey, and at Weiland's
There are lots of places to buy great bacon in Columbus: this batch came from Oink Moo Cluck Farms, but you can also get it at Blues Creek Farms and Thurn's.