Ode to Toby Run Shitake Mushrooms, with Pasta & Cream

Husband and I have been totally enamored of these Toby Run shitake mushrooms for a few years now.  Toby Run also sells oyster mushrooms - which I always want to buy because they are so lovely, especially the pink ones - but when I have to make a choice, it's always the shitakes.  I'm not sure if I can describe exactly why these mushrooms are so delicious, or why they're better than others; it might just be the fact that fresh mushrooms taste so much better then anything you buy at the grocery store that's been sitting around, drying out for awhile.  They are rich and meaty, flawless, clean, and delicious.  I knew what I had to do with them the second I saw farmer Jim Rockwell at the North Market Farmer's Market on Saturday, where I gushed that I've been waiting for these mushrooms for 6 months, making the farmer smirk just a little.  Ah well, some people dream about cake: I dream about mushrooms.

Shitake mushrooms have large amounts of naturally occurring MSG, as well as a similar flavor enhancing compound "synergistic with glutamate" (McGee, On Food & Cooking), GMP - guanosine monophosphate - making them have that ineffable savory quality - umami - which we love in things like seaweed, Parmesan cheese, and cured meat products.  Did you know that the Chinese have been cultivating shitake mushrooms since the 13th century?  and that mushrooms contain high levels of iron (20% in one cup).

This pasta is quick, easy, indulgent, and delicious.  And it's vegetarian.  It isn't really a diet dish, but something I love to make every year when the mushrooms come out.  It is inspired by something served every year at G. Michael's when the morels arrive.

Ode to Shitake Mushrooms, with Pasta, Cream and Herbs - Serves 2 as an entree, or 4 as an appetizer

For the pasta:
1/2 package cappelini (angel hair pasta)
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil
1 large leek, quartered and cut into very small slivers
1 small bunch chives
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3 sticks of thyme
10 sage leaves, whole
6 ounces white wine
6 ounces heavy cream, plus about an ounce or 2
salt & pepper
4 dashes Tabasco

For the mushrooms:
1 tbsp + 2 tbsp butter, divided
1 tbsp olive oil
8 ounces shitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps slivered
4 ounces white wine
salt & pepper

Make the sauce: Melt the butter with the olive oil in a large skillet and cook the leeks with a sprinkling of salt over medium - medium low heat until they are very tender - but without browning, about 15-20 minutes.  When they are very soft, add the chives and the garlic and stir together.  Turn the heat up to high and deglaze the pan with the white wine.  When the wine has cooked almost away, add the herbs and the cream.  Season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and let the sauce simmer while you do everything else.  If the sauce begins to get too thick, add a little cream.  Remove the herbs, add the Tabasco and taste; correct seasoning as needed.  The Tabasco here doesn't add spiciness per say, just a little "zing" to balance the richness of the cream.

Make the Mushrooms: heat the olive oil and 1 tbsp of the butter over medium high heat and add the mushrooms.  When they are about half cooked (just beginning to lose their whiteness and turn soft), add the wine and season with salt and pepper.  When the wine is nearly cooked out, add the 2 tbsp of butter.  Taste and correct seasoning.

Cook the pasta according to package directions, being sure it is just barely al dente.  It should still have some bite and not be completely cooked.  We are going to be putting it back on the heat, and it is very easy to overcook this skinny little thread.  Drain the pasta and place into the cream sauce.  Toss with tongs until the pasta is thoroughly coated.  If necessary, add a little more cream.  Place the pasta in bowls and top with the sauteed mushrooms.  Crack a little black pepper over and top with more chopped herbs, if desired.  Mmmmm.