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20 posts from September 2007

Sunday, September 30, 2007

CSA & Columbus Farm Market Report for September 28th

928_csa_box
It appears that we will continue to be carless until October 10th, or thereabouts, so I continue to be limited in what I can buy at the markets.  And we will be in Philadelphia this coming weekend, so I'm still keeping things light.

This week's CSA included eggs, a golden squash, onions, lots of peppers - sweet red peppers and also sweet (Hungarian wax, perhaps?) peppers, salad greens, a nice bunch of speckly beans (below) which will no doubt turn green when cooked, a few red tomatoes and another box of those great currant, yellow pear, and Sungold cherry tomatoes.
Beans
I had to choose wisely what else went in my bag - and of course we're in the time of year when everything is heavy - so I opted for some Toby Run shitakes and a few sweet dumpling squash from Toad Hill Organics (below).  I've really been craving some more kabocha squash, but it doesn't seem as though very many people are growing them this year.  Last year they were everywhere. 
Squish

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Things to do in Columbus::September 26th Edition

It's technically autumn.  An event which was celebrated in Central Ohio with record-tying high temperatures.  Ah well, we have nothing if not predictably unpredictable weather.  As always, if you have an event to add, please leave it in the comments or send me an email.

  • Don't forget that tonight is the Organic Chef Showdown at Wild Oats.  Wilds Oats' Chef Ugur will challenge Latitude 41's Tony Miller to a competition featuring locally grown, organic produce.  6-8pm, tickets are $25, click for more details.
  • The Waxen Center has a video exhibit to commemorate the second anniversary of Hurricane Katrina, "Artists Respond to Hurricane Katrina."  Numerous artists have prepared videos documenting the lives of those affected by the devastation of the Gulf Coast.  In other Wex news, you can see the humorous stylings of William Wegman's Weimereiners (and other subjects) through the end of the year in Funney/Strange, and this weekend in film, you can see The Gospel According to Harry tonight at 7pm (which stars a pre-famous Viggo Mortensen) and, Thursday through Saturday, a restored Killer of Sheep.
  • Thursday, (78 Parsons Ave, Downtown/Old Town East), the Chop Chop gallery will show the animated stylings of Brent Green, featuring the music of Moviola and Sin Ropas (music described as "dark & wobbly).  I'm a huge animation fan, so I'm a little sad that I have to work; this event sounds super cool.
  • For those of you already in the mood for Halloween (and judging from all of the decorations already up in my neighborhood, that's a lot of you), Shadowbox is showing "Haunted House Party" until November 10th.  One of these days, I'll actually make it to a Shadowbox show.
  • This week at Sur la Table, cooking classes will be: Late Summer Lunch in Provence with Martin Moran (9/28); Pasta Workshop with Craig Lomonico (9/30, 2pm); Charcuterie with Tom Johnson (10/2); Football Buffet with Dena Logan (10/3); and Cooking Basics 2, Seasoning & Flavoring with Sheri Lisak (10/4).  All classes are $65 and take place at 6:30pm, unless otherwise noted.  Click through to their calender for more information.
  • And, this week at Whole Foods, you can learn Entertaining in Mediterranean Style with Shelley Owem (Thurs, 9/27 $25) and Choosing Foods to Boost Energy with Dr. Pam Popper (Monday, October 1st; free but registration is required).  Click link above for more information.
  • All you crafty folks (and I know you're out there) might be interested in taking a trip to see the exhibition of fiber artists at the Ohio Craft Museum (1665 W. 5th Ave in Grandview).  Click through to their website for more information
  • It might be a bit of a drive, but Denision will display Chikanobu: Modernity and Nostalgia in Japanese Prints through October 28th.  These block prints showcase Japanese life during the Meiji period.  More info.

Sunday, September 23, 2007

CSA & Columbus Farm Market Report for September 22

Maters
A very abbreviated market day yesterday, because this week our car decided it needed a vacation.  In the middle of Lane Avenue.  And so, before I get to the report, I would like to take this opportunity to thank my father for teaching me how to pop the clutch to get unmotivated cars started.  This was the first time I've had to do it in reverse, in the middle of a four lane street, with lots of angry people yelling epithets at me, but it worked, nonetheless, so thanks, Dad!  (subliminal to Husband: Now can I get a scooter?  Please?)

Okay, so, because I was at the mercy of the Central Ohio Transit Authority, I decided to just go and pick up my CSA and head home.  Which is fine, because we haven't been doing a lot of cooking lately (I know, I know), and I'll be at work every day this week (sigh), so I wanted to keep things light.
Csa_box
This week's CSA box included eggs, lettuce, Swiss Card, garlic, nice red tomatoes and a mixture of currant tomatoes (top of post), yellow pears, and orange cherry tomatoes, mint, and lots of peppers - red and green. 

Thursday, September 20, 2007

86 Coldstone Creamery

I don't usually post news tidbits; however, I was interested to discover that Coldstone Creamery has packed up and left Clintonville and, more intriguing, their Short North location on the cap over 670.  That leaves 2 sets of empty storefronts in a row there on the Cap.  Maybe there is something to that Dean & Deluca rumor, afterall.  Anyone?

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Things to do in Columbus::September 19th Edition

Updated Thursday morning with food-related events.

So, we are experimenting with a shorter format this week, based upon the imput from a certain reader.  Please let me know how you like it or don't.  As always, if you have an event to add, please leave it in the comments.  Don't forget to hit post after previewing your comment.  I will be updating later with this week's food-related events.

  • This Saturday is the India festival (10am - 10pm) at Vets memorial.  Yet another one of those festivals I've never made it to which seems like a great time.  Primarily for eating.  Admission is free.
  • The Thurber House's Evening with Authors series continues tomorrow, September 20th, with Jennifer Egan (The Invisible Circus, Look at Me).  Tickets for the event, held at Columbus School for Girls, are $20.
  • This weekend at the Kelton House, learn about the prominent Columbus family (the Keltons) who risked everything to help deliver slaves to freedom as part of the Underground Railroad during "Sophie's Secret."  The event is $11 and takes place weekdays 1:30 - 3:30 and weekends 1pm - 4p.
  • This weekend is the Goodale Park Art Festival, Saturday 11am - 7pm & Sunday 11am - 5pm.  There will be over 130 vendors showcasing all sorts of handmade items.  There will also be educational exhibits.  Admission is free.
  • The Columbus Museum of Art will be diplaying an exhibit by Somali-born photographer Abdi Roble entitled "Stories From the Somali Diaspora."  The exhibit features many powerful images.

Food-Related Events

  • Next Wednesday, September 26th, OEFFA will present an Iron Chef-like showdown between organic chefs.  Wilds Oats' Chef Ugur will challange Latitude 41's Tony Miller to a competition featuring locally grown, organic produce.  6-8pm, tickets are $25, click for more details.
  • This week's cooking classes at Sur la Table are as follows: Friday night in the South of Franch with Tom Johnson; Global Kitchen:Spain with Tom Johnson; Authentic Mexican with Bryan Loveless ($75); Cooking Basics: Soups & Stocks with Sheri Lisak; and A Late Summer Dinner in Provence with Martin Moran.  All classes are begin at 6:30 and are $65, unless otherwise noted.  Click through to their calender for more information.
  • Williams-Sonoma has released their schedule of free (yes, free) technique classes for their Easton store.  Classes take place at 11am on Sundays.  One the 23rd, the class will be all about espresso.  Call the store for more details: 614.476.2957.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Pistachia Vera

Mads
There are a few culinary hotspots in Columbus that we should support and treasure, because they are among the few things which make our fair city stand out among others of our size.  They include (but aren't limited to) the North Market, Jeni's Ice Cream, and Pistachia Vera.  The attention to detail and design of the new Pistachia Vera (which moved from the Short North and changed their name from Pistachio to the botanical name of the edible pistachio tree, Pistachia Vera), not to mention the delicious treats, truly set it apart in a city where design seems frequently to be uninspired and thrown-together.  Those who remember the old Thurn's spot (no, not that Thurn's) will marvel at the transformation from cluttered neighborhood coffee shop and bakery to this open, airy, clean space.  Anyone who rented the apartment above the old shop probably won't recognize the new open scheme of the space - most of the second floor was removed to make way for a loft-like mezzanine for office space.  The entire north side of the building holds a number of large window (which used to be garage doors); this means the entire space, including the kitchen, is flooded with light.  It must be a refreshing change of pace for anyone used to working under typically hideous kitchen lighting, no access to natural lighting or views of the outside.  Of course, much of the baking takes place while it is still dark outside, and probably increasingly so as the winter comes upon us. 

Husband and I were lucky enough to take a tour of these space - here is the view from the loft:
View_from_above
There is no real seating, but fortunately Pistachia Vera is located in charming German Village, where treats can be purchased and munched while strolling through the cobblestone streets, or taken to go.  There is a bench outside, and Husband and I perched there to eat our fork-requiring treats and sip some of the excellent coffee, and then took a big box of treats to coworkers.  But Lisa, what about the treats?!  See for yourself:
Treats
First up, new packaging, as classic, tasteful, and clean as the space:
Packaging
New things tried on this visit were: Chocolate Mint Macarons (I love Pistachia's macarons), Caramel Macarons, a Gianduja (chocolate & hazelnut) mille feuille, rich, decadent, and perfect - rich but not cloyingly sweet:
Gianduja
a chocolate and passionfruit chiboust, which was a surprising combination (new to me, anyway); it was perfect because the passionfruit provided the perfect foil to the rich bitter chocolate, especially with the copious amounts of cocoa nibs (roasted and chopped cocoa beans, which have a nutty, rich, dry chocolate flavor without sweetness).  There is tart passionfruit creme hiding in there somewhere, although you can't see it in the picture. I was reminded that next time at Jeni's, I'll have to forgo chocolate gelato & lemon yogurt for chocolate gelato and passionfruit yogurt:
Choc_passion
and after:
After
We snagged some risotto pudding and tiramisu - both in super cool square carryout containers - for later treats.  The risotto pudding was pleasantly rich, full of vanilla and spice and not too sweet:
Risotto_pudding
the tiramisu was a well-executed version of the classic, appreciated for its commitment to the traditional flavors (although I believe I detected some cocoa nibs); again, refreshing for not being over-the-top sweet (I a much fonder of rich than sweet).  Husband doesn't usually care for tiramisu, so I snarfed half of this (after walking 3 miles to work, mind you) and gave the rest to a coworker under his nose.  Boy, did I pay for that mistake!  Sorry babe!
Tiramisu
Of course, there are numerous treats available at Pistachia Vera which I haven't mentioned - I'm only one girl, for the love of crumbcake.  I am constantly amazed by the amount of money people are willing to pay for really bad cakes in this city (as a server, I get to sample a lot of cakes from bakeries I would never patronize), especially when Pistachia Vera is competitively priced for the quality, so don't let the lovely new space or the impossibly beautiful cakes scare you off.  Stop by for a $1 macaron, and see how much heaven you can buy for that mere sum.  I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

There are many types of business people in the world, and few are willing to be patient and work hard to get things right.  Certainly owners Spencer Budros and Anne Fletcher are among those, and their hard work is paying off. 

Info:  Pistachia Vera (website in the works) 541 S. 3rd Street (in German Village) 614.220.9070.  The new location is open 7 days a week, 8am - 6pm.

Monday, September 17, 2007

Sausage & Grapes with Braised and Fresh Fennel, Autumn 2007 Edition

Sausage_wgrapes
It's early fall, and it's grape season.  Here at Chez Widow, that means it's time for sausage and grapes.  I've written about sausage and grapes before, of course, a seasonal dish traditionally fed to hungry grape harvesters in Italy.  Those of you who came to my cooking demo at the North Market got to see a simple version of this recipe; hopefully you can see from the picture how this is supposed to look when one has adequate heat with which to cook! 

The inspiration for this interpretation came last week, when Husband and I were leaving the house and he paused to pick a few fennel flowers from our "garden." (In quotes because we didn't plant anything this year, it's just whatever made it from last year: fennel, dill, oregano, sage, and thyme.)  The fennel flowers were filled with a nectar-y, persistent sweet fennel flavor; it was amazing.  We started thinking of how we might use this bounty, and decided on one of our fall favorites, sausage and grapes.  Sadly, by the time we finally got to make the dish, the flowers had fallen!  Ah well, there's always next year, right?

This dish is hearty, sweet, and comforting.  We pair it with polenta; in this case, I made a creamy polenta (5 cups water to one cup of cornmeal) and stirred in a few tablespoons of butter and a little freshly grated Parmesan.

Sausage & Grapes with Braised and Fresh Fennel - Serves 4

4 fennel bulbs, trimmed of any brown bits.  Quarter 3 bulbs, and shave the fourth bulb with a mandoline or a ceramic slicer
pinch of white sugar
1 tbsp rice vinegar, divided
olive oil
4 hot or sweet Italian Sausages (preferably flavored with fennel)
2 pounds grapes; I like big fat Muscadine grapes, or another interesting fat grape, halved and pips removed
1/2 bottle red wine
pinch fennel seeds
2 tbsp brown sugar
extra virgin olive oil
salt

Place about half an inch of water in a large saute pan and add the fennel.  Sprinkle with a pinch of sugar and 1/2 tbsp of the rice vinegar.  Heat over medium high heat until the water has evaporated, stirring or tossing to ensure even cooking.  Remove the fennel from the pan and set aside.

Heat the same saute pan over high heat, drizzling in a tbsp of olive oil.  Brown the sausages on all sides, about 3 minutes per side.  There will be smoke!  When the sausages are brown, tip in about 3/4 of the grapes.  Deglaze the pan with half of the wine (about 1 cup) and add the fennel back to the pan.  Add the sugar and fennel seeds. Cook over medium high heat, keeping a watchful eye on things and tossing the pan every now and again, for about 20 minutes, adding more wine when necessary to keep the pan from drying out or burning.  The grapes will cook down to a syrupy consistency, coating the sausages in their tart sweetness.  When this happens, add the remaining grapes and toss just to heat them through; you don't have to do this, but I like a combination of melty and firm grapes.

Place the reserved shaved fennel in a little bowl and toss with the remaining rice vinegar and a little drizzle of good extra virgin olive oil.  Sprinkle with salt.

Place a little polenta on a plate and add a sausage.  Spoon over a good amount of grapes, fennel and sauce.  Top with a little bit of the raw fennel salad and serve with some sort of hearty red wine.  (We opted for Aglianico).

Local Sources for this recipe: these hot Italian sausage links came from Oink Moo Cluck at the Worthington Farmer's Market (they also sell at Clintonville); the fennel came from Sippel Farm at Clintonville (and they also sell at Worthington, most Saturdays).  Grapes are available at lots of farm markets this time of year, although I will admit that I purchased these Muscadine grapes from Whole Foods.

Saturday, September 15, 2007

CSA & Columbus Farm Market Report for September 15th

Csa_box
Ah, the cool weather.  The need to wear a sweater to the market - and keep wearing it throughout marketing - means I can finally accept the fact that fall is on the way, and purchase some squash.  I celebrated with three squash and a pumpkin.  I like the produce this time of year - everything lasts so long that you don't feel this crushing need to cook right now.  I made a (vain) effort to keep things light this week - we've been working a lot and haven't been doing very much cooking. 

I started off the morning later than usual, having turned my 7am alarm off and waking, instead, at 9.  No matter.  I headed to the Worthington market, where I stopped briefly to pick up some Gala apples, sweet red peppers, and red onions at Zemnicki Greenhouse.  I strolled around a bit - we're in that kind of weird time where the tomatoes are waning, there aren't very many beans out (what does it take to get someone to grow beans in this state?!), but it isn't quite cold enough yet for those greens which make me so happy after the first frost.  I didn't even see any Brussels sprouts on my trip this morning, but I suppose I wasn't paying close enough attention.
Fennel
I swung through the Clintonville market, being on something of a mission to find some fennel bulbs (above), and was pleased to find a few remaining at the Sippel Farm, where they also had single-serving, lunchbox-sized watermelon.  Alas, I resisted, and settled for just the fennel.  I was pleased to see that the Wayward Seed farm has begun selling at the Clintonville market, and I bought a nice little pumpkin from them whose name has of course completely escaped me.  They also had golden kabocha and a great, bluish, knotted Tuscan squash (which is apparently quite tasty, but I didn't want to get carried away).  It was then off to buy some duck eggs.  Alas, I can't remember the name of the farm, but it's just a few stalls north of 2 silos, and the duck eggs are terrific.  The yolks are so firm that the last time I was frying some up, I broke one of the yolks and it didn't spread.  It cooked just like normal, only the yolk was a little misshapen.  They are so rich and decadent, if you try them you might never want to go back to chicken eggs!
Watermelon
Speaking of chicken eggs, our CSA chickens finally decided to start laying again!  In other CSA news, our box this week contained a watermelon (above), lettuce, garlic, onions, wax beans, a golden zucchini, nice red tomatoes, a giant yellow heirloom tomato, and a pint of Sungold cherry, yellow pear, and red currant tomato mix.  I think I'm going to stir all of those together with a little salt and balsamic to take to work with me.  We also received a sprig of dill (my favorite garden aroma, hands down).
Golden_kabocha
And then it was off to buy a few more eggplants and my weekly allotment of Toby Run shitake mushrooms.  I stopped by Wishwell Farms for another jar of their hot pepper relish, which I love, and a few more squash - golden kabocha (above), acorn, and butternut.  It's time to do some roasting! 

And what did you get at the market this week?

Also, today was the gathering of the Columbus Cutters, the Columbus scooter club, so Husband has weeks of listening to me beg for a scooter to look forward to.  Here's the super cool Jeni's Ice Cream Scooter:
Jenis_scooter

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Things to Do in Columbus, September 12th Edition

Updated Thursday morning for Craftin' Outlaws (first event) and the Ohio Paw Paw Festival (last event).

It's 70 degrees in my house with no air conditioning!  Surely, it's almost time for pumpkin picking!  There are lots of food-related events going on in the upcoming weeks, so it's time to get out there and eat!  And drink, as the case may be.  This is another of those weeks in which I have been keeping mental notes of all of the events going on as I hear about them; for those of you who are familiar with my memory, you can probably guess that I've forgotten all sorts of things.  If you have an event to share, please send me at email.

  • Of course!! How could I have forgotten Craftin' Outlaws?!  Craftin' Outlaws is an alternative craft show, which means they will be selling handmade goods you will actually want to purchase.  The event will take place at Skully's Music Diner (in the Short North, High & 3rdish) and begins at noon and lasts until 7pm; there will even be food & drinks available, and admission is free.  Click here for a funny YouTube promo video, featuring lots of handmade animals.
  • This Saturday is the Columbus Microbrew Festival at the North Market, so hit the markets early and then get your drink on by noon!  Admission to the event is free, and $12 buys you a strip of 8 tasting tickets with a commemorative pint glass.  Extra tickets are 50 cents.  Brewers this year include Barley's #1 and #2 (original and smokehouse), Gordon Biersch, Columbus Brewing, Elevator Brewing, Hoster Brewing, and a newcomer this year, Weasel Boy Brewing from Zanesville.  This year's event will include a homebrewer's contest.  There will also be shopping, cooking demos, and live music.
  • In other drinking events, Morton's the Steakhouse (downtown) will host a tasting of Chandon sparkling wines next Wednesday the 19th from 6pm - 7:30; tickets are $50 and appetizers will be offered.  Call 614.464.4442 for more information.
  • This week's cooking classes at Sur la Table are as follows: Back to School with Bon Apetit (tonight); How to Throw a Perfect Tailgate (Thursday 9/13) (both are at 6:30pm and are $65).  Cake Decorating Basics (Saturday, 10:30 am $65); Sushi 101 with Yukiko Bates (Saturday, 6:30pm, $75); Sunday Brunch (Sunday, noon, $55); New England Fall Dinner with Tom Johnson (Monday, 6:30, $65); Cooking with Tools Cooks Love (next Thursday, 9/20 6:30, $65).  Unless otherwise stated, classes are taught by Sur la Table chef Martin Moran.  Click through to their calender for more information.
  • Williams-Sonoma has released their schedule of free (yes, free) technique classes for their Easton store.  Classes take place at 11am on Sundays.  September 16th, learn all about Autumn braising (one of my favorite topics!) next Sunday, the 23rd, will be all about espresso.  Call the store for more details: 614.476.2957.
  • This week's events at Whole Foods include the Buckeye Bounty market this Saturday from 9am - 2pm; purchase all sorts of Ohio-produced products.  Cooking classes include Tailgating in Style Thursday night with chef Marc Dullin ($35); Is Your Food Making You Sick (for all you hypochondriacs out there) with dietician Ginny Johnson (free, Monday 9/17 at 6:30 pm);  Brunch for Special Occasions with Chef Marcia Ginsberg (Wed 9/19 at 6:30pm, $25); and for you with kids in grades 3-6, After School Chefs Thursday, 9/20, $10.)  Click through to the Whole Foods Dublin Calender for more information.
  • And while we are on the topic of food events, Monday, September 17th, you can celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Silver Palate Cookbook with Julee Rosso.  The luncheon will take place at the Derby Court of the Columbus Museum of Art; hosting will be Robin Davis of the Columbus Dispatch.  Tickets are $50 each.  More info.
  • This week at the Wexner Center, you can see Polish filmmaker Lech Majewski's Wojaczek tonight at 7pm; Thursday & Friday beginning at 7pm, the double feature will be Branded on the Brain and Manuelle Labor; Tuesday the 18th, the Wex welcomes students back with an outdoor screening of Dave Chappelle's Block Party at 9pm.  On Thursday the 20th, the Wex welcomes an exhibit of William Wegman's Funney/Strange, which will last through the end of the year.
  • Saturdays through September, you can visit the Wilds for a special "Sunset Safari."  For $60, you can enjoy a buffet dinner and a personally guided tour, along with special visits to the cranes and rhinos.  Please visit the Wilds' website for more information.
  • The Ohio Renaissance Festival goes on and on until the late October.  I'm sure there will be lots of corsets, jousting, and turkey legs to be had by all.  I probably have a few friends from college who will be hanging out there (we English majors, a silly lot all).  The Ren Fest takes place in Harveysburg, Ohio, which is right in the middle of Columbus, Dayton, and Cincinnati.  Admission is $17, and group and discount tickets are available online.
  • This Sunday at the Museum of Art is the Yart Sale.  There will be numerous works of art and prints for sale on the grounds of the museum.  Admission is free for the event, which takes place from 10am - 2pm.
  • Tony Bennett will be performing with the Columbus Symphony on Tuesday, September 18th at 7pm.  Tickets are $25 - $65.  Click for more details (I can't get their website to load at the moment).
  • The Victorian Village tour of homes & gardens takes place this Sunday from 10am - 6pm.  This is a great event for anyone new to the area or for anyone looking to remodel their homes.  Tickets are $15; click for more info.
  • In antiques and gardening news, this weekend is the Antiques & Gardeners Fair, Friday through Sunday 10am - 5pm at the Franklin Park Conservatory.  Visit their website for more information.
  • This Saturday is the Ohioana Book Festival at the Ohioana Library Association (274 E 1st ave) from 10am - 4:30pm); this is the first year of the event, which will include 20 Ohio authors who will read from and sign their works.  Click to their website for more information.
  • This weekend is Jack Hanna's Fall Fest at the Zoo.  You can see demonstrations which include pumpkin-carving! and composting?  Saturday & Sunday, 9am - 5pm; tickets are $10.  Click to their website for more information.
  • Celebrate Ohio's only native tropical fruit - the Paw Paw - and this year's Ohio Paw Paw festival in Lake Snowden, Ohio (near Athens).  Activities take place Saturday and Sunday from 10:30 to 5ish.  Click to their website for more information.

Monday, September 10, 2007

Football Chili - Second Edition - Three Meats, Three Beans

Oh no!  I packaged all the leftovers, vacuumed them up and put them in the freezer and then realized I hadn't taken a picture.  Well, this year's version looked a lot like last year's, but was a little different.  And meaty.  Very meaty.

For this year's chili, I wanted a meaty, smoky flavor - not too spicy, but full of complex spices.  I like my chili spicy, and although this year's was slightly spicy, I decided to allow the eater to spice at one's own discretion (which meant no added spice for Husband, and about 20 dashes of smoked chipotle Tabasco for me). 

I have been cleaning out my kitchen freezer recently, just to make some room for the remaining things I'll be freezing during the rest of the growing season, and I came across two large, meaty ham hocks from King Family Pork which Chef gave me a few months ago.  These were huge.  They were so meaty that they were really almost shanks.  I had a pound of fresh kidney beans, and the results just seemed inevitable.  I put the hamhocks in a large stock pot with about a liter of water, and cooked them over low heat for about an hour (they were still frozen, and I wanted the water to be flavored before adding the beans) and then added the beans.  It took about an hour for the beans to soften at "low," so I'd imagine that if you used dried beans, it could easily take 2 hours.  Of course, you can skip this step, but I really thought it added a nice rich smokiness to the finished product - ham hocks are ridiculously cheap, so there's really no reason to skip out.  You could put the hocks and beans in a slow cooker for a few hours and not even stir or anything. 

If you are living in the Columbus area, please seek out Weiland's smoked brisket.  It is so delicious and added its smokiness to the chili, all the while melting into meaty shreds.  It added an interesting texture.

Again, I flavored this chili with a blend of spices; this year I really bumped up my non-spicy spices, such as the chocolate, cinnamon, cumin and smoked paprika.  I think the chocolate and cinnamon add a nice, ineffable richness. 

When I thought I was almost finished with the chili, I realized that what I had was way too meaty - this might seem to be an oxymoron to some of my readers, but nonetheless, I added two more cans of beans - white kidney beans and those lovely Italian butter beans from Carfagna's.  Those huge beans offered a nice surprise and also another textural component, beyond the typical kidney beans.

Football Chili, Second Edition - makes about 8 quarts of chili

For the kidney beans - 2 days before, if using dried

2 smoked ham hocks
1 pound fresh kidney beans or half a pound of dried

Soak the beans overnight, if using dried beans.  Place the ham hocks in a slower cooker or stock pot and add water to just barely cover.  Heat for about 1 hour over low heat, then add the beans and cook until soft, testing after about 1 hour.  Drain off most of the cooking liquid  - leave about a cup - and place the hocks and beans in a container until ready to use.

Spice Blend

3 Tbsp chili powder
2 tbsp brown sugar
2 tbsp smoked paprika
2 tbsp cocoa powder
1 tbsp onion powder
1 tbsp cinnamon
1 tbsp cumin
1 tsp celery salt
1 tsp red pepper flakes (or to taste)

Combine and set aside

For the Chili

olive oil
2 pounds ground chuck
Onion powder
Cumin
salt
pepper
2 medium onions, or 6 large shallots (I forgot to buy onions this week, so used all shallots), small dice
1 head of garlic, cloves separated, peeled, and sliced thinly
Spice Blend
Prepared kidney beans
1 can white beans in their liquid
1 can butter beans in their liquid
2 (28 ounce) cans diced tomatoes
1 (6 ounce) can tomato puree
1 pound smoked brisket, optional, sliced into 1/2" slices and then cut again into 1 1/2" by 1/2" batons

Brown the chuck in a large saute pan with a little olive oil, season it with a little sprinkle of onion powder and cumin, salt and pepper, and stir until it is just cooked, then drain off the fat and set aside. 

In a large stock pot, heat about 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat, then add the onions.  Sweat for about 5 minutes while you get on with peeling the garlic.  When the onions are translucent, slice in the garlic.  Cook for about 5 more minutes, stirring frequently.  Add the drained ground beef and stir in the spice blend.  Add the kidney beans - along with the ham hocks - and the canned beans, and the tomatoes and tomato puree.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Turn the heat up to high and bring to a boil, then turn the heat to about medium.  Cook for an hour, stirring whenever you think about it, and then remove the ham hocks.  Place the hocks in a bowl and allow to cool slightly, until you can handle them.  Carefully remove as much meat as possible - the dark, sweet, meat from a hamhock is among the best on the pic - and place it back into the chili.  You should be able to shred the pork into small bits, but if you have to, cut any larger bits against the grain.

Add in the brisket, turn the heat down to medium low, and cook the chili, uncovered, for another hour or two, until it has reached a thick consistency.  Of course, the longer it cooks, the richer and more complicated the flavor will be.  Taste and correct seasonings. When you can't stand the delicious smell anymore, ladle the chili into nice big bowls and top as desired - cheese, onions, sour cream and Tabasco are a few thoughts - and serve nice and hot.  A little cornbread or a few Fritos never hurt, either.

May 2008

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