Linguine with Clams and Pancetta

There's something about pasta and shellfish.  It becomes more than the sum of its parts.  I'm convinced clam juice contributed to the pasta is more important than the actual clams, although when Husband and I were discussing this, he disagreed, saying it was getting a tender delicious clam which was the best part.  Whoever is correct, there's no doubt that shellfish and pasta are a match made in heaven.  The trick to a successful "sauceless" pasta is, of course, pasta water, so under no circumstances should you drain the pasta and let all of the delicious water go down the drain.

As always, be sure you purchase your seafood from a reputable fishmonger.  I bought two dozen of these little pastaneck clams from Weiland's, they all opened when cooked, and none were sandy.  What more could you ask?  Scrub the outside of the clams very well, remembering that anything on the outside of the clam will end up in your pasta!  Yikes!

I originally made this with twice the amount of pancetta I've called for in this recipe, because I thought I might have used a little too much.  You can substitute bacon for the pancetta if you like, but I think the gaminess of pancetta works nicely with the wild oceanic flavor of the clams.  Purchase your pancetta from a store which sells it at the deli counter, so that you can have it sliced into thin slices (instead of purchasing it as a chunk); this makes cutting it into tiny cubes much easier.  Of course, you could leave it out entirely if you'd like a pork-free dish.  You can either choose to precook all of the clams and remove them from their shells, or do as I did, precooking some and cooking more in their shells in the pasta, which I think ensures an even richer flavor.  There is no salt called for in this recipe, because you should be boiling your linguine in well-salted water, which will reduce later; pancetta is also very salty.  Allow your dining companion to salt to her desire.

Linguine with Clams and Pancetta - serves 2

1/4 clam stock, clam juice, or water
24 small clams - I used pastanecks, which are smaller than littlenecks - well-scrubbed
6 ounces linguine, cooked 3 minutes less than package directed, not drained
olive oil
2 1/4" slices of pancetta (about 3 ounces), cut into 1/4" dice
2 large shallots, cut into small dice (or one medium onion)
6 cloves garlic, mashed in garlic press
1 cup dry vermouth or white wine
2 cups pasta water
Clam juice from cooking clams (see below)
freshly cracked black pepper
red pepper flakes
1/4 cup butter

Remove about 10 of the smallest clams from the bunch and set aside.  In a small saucepan with a lid, bring the 1/4 cup clam juice or water to a boil and tumble in the rest of the clams.  Cover and steam for about 5 minutes, checking after 3 minutes, until the clams open all the way.  Carefully remove the clams and set them aside to cool, but reserve the liquid left behind.  This is what you will use for the "clam juice" called for later.

In a large saute pan, heat about 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat and add the pancetta.  Cook until crisp (about 7 minutes).  Using a slotted spoon, remove the pancetta to paper towels to drain, and drain off the remaining fat.  Add a little more olive oil (just to lower the smoke point), and add the shallots.  Cook for about 4 minutes, or until they begin to soften, and then add the garlic and cook for about 4 more minutes, being sure the garlic does not burn.

In the meantime, remove the cooked clams from their shells and set aside.

Add the vermouth, the pasta water, and the clam juice, turn the heat to high, and bring to a boil.  Return the pancetta to the pan, add black pepper and about 1/2 tbsp red pepper flakes to taste.  Reduce by at least half, then add the pasta - I like to just use tongs to transfer it from one pot to the other, because I don't mind more pasta water getting in.  Add the reserved (uncooked) clams and cook for about 4 minutes, or until the clams open and the pasta has cooked to taste.  Add the butter and stir to melt and bring everything together; add the cooked clams which you removed from their shells.  You should end up with a nice rich stock which coats the pasta, and just a little liquid left behind - serve with nice crusty bread.