Turkey Stock::the Ruhlman Method

Mmmmmeat jello.  Mmmmmmm.

So.  Regular readers are aware that I have recently read and reviewed Michale Ruhlman's new book, the Elements of Cooking.  In the first chapter, the subject of stock is dealt with.  Having worked in restaurants where we cooked veal stock seemingly nonstop, I was pretty familiar with the basic principles; I've made my fair share of stock over the years, but it had never occurred to me to cook the stock in the oven, until I read Elements.  But it did make sense - the heat would be even and the stock would never boil, first of all.  When we were getting ready to put our Thanksgiving turkey in the pot for stock-making, I said to Husband that I felt I had a moral obligation to my readers to test the Ruhlman method, and cook the stock in the oven.  He looked skeptical, but acquiesced.

And so, into a 16 quart stock pot went the carcass (with only the leftover aromatics which had been stuffed in its cavity for roasting) and enough water to cover, and into a 180 degree oven went the stock pot.  For 10 hours.  After which time I chopped up some leftover celery, a big onion, and a head of garlic and threw those into the pot (we were out of carrots).  I added a few peppercorns and the stock continued for another hour and a half (the Ruhlman method only adds aromatics for the last hour of cooking).  I then strained the stock (the hardest part of the process) into a smaller stock pot (it made about 8-10 quarts).  Now it was my turn to be skeptical.  The stock looked pale, and the turkey carcass looked fresh - usually the stock and aromatics look as though they have been depleted, but these ingredients looked as though they could take another turn with a fresh batch of water.  But I had to go to work, so I put the strained stock in the fridge and left. 

When I got home, I was planning to strain the stock through a paper filter, when I found quite a surprise.  As I carefully took the stock from the fridge (I had a nightmare where I spilled it everywhere), I noticed the stock was jiggling.  This is stock.  Good stock jiggles.  See the surface, with reflection:

So, why does good poultry stock jiggle?  because you have extracted lots of collagen and goodness from the bones; this provides unparalleled richness and mouth feel.  Yum.  The only drawback was I had to warm the stock to ungelatinize it before I could strain it again.

We turned the first quart of stock into a really, really amazing soup (yes, I'll give you the recipe this week) and the rest of it is going into the freezer where it will certainly find its way into risotto over the next few weeks.

So, here is my advice to you: make some stock.  Husband and I are fond of tossing all of our chicken carcasses into the freezer, and then when we have 5 or so accumulated, we turn them into stock.  All future birds will definitely be stockified using this method.  (here's another little tip - we like to add at least one carcass from a Weiland's smoked chicken, it just adds that certain something).

Did you try Ruhlman's method - or any other - for your turkey stock this year?  How were your experiences?

Comments

[Brian]

No geletin for me either, but I only cooked mine for 5 hours, not 10.

[Lindi]

Hummm....I just looked at my stock ala Ruhlman and it didn't gelatinize either. Why come?

[Lindi]

Was that the real Ruhlman? Lisa, you have SO made the bigtime!!!

[Kristy]

Am I naive to think that "Ruhlman" just posted a comment on your blog?? My jaw dropped.

I have been making my own stock for about 10 months now, and I was always a little nervous because it is always gelatanous (sp?). Never worried much though, because my risottos taste awesome!

Glad to know that all along I was making a successful product!

Because I am never home for 10 hours straight, I make mine on Low in my crockpot, usually overnight, and I'm not going to change a thing!

[ruhlman]

lisathewaitress! that is the BEST picture of stock EVER. THAT is what stock should look like! Thank you!

and i definitely think that 10 hours is a good call at using low temp. and adding the mirepoix cools it all down and so it needs a half hour to get back up to heat so an hour and a half is good.

but no carrots. i think carrots are really important. funny, because i don't like to eat cooked carrots but i love what they do to a stock or sauce.

again, thanks. i love all this talk about stock.

[cook eat FRET]

ruhlman's method all the way. but no jiggles. i had it in the oven about 5 hours and then shut it off and it sat in the warm oven overnight. it was too late to deal with. but really - no gelatin. i wonder why...

[Anne]

I made stock with my usual method: into the stock pot with the carcass, cavity-stuffers (onions, herbs and celery) and whatever vegetable clippings I can rustle up, and cook it until I run out of patience. I still need to vaccuum seal the frozen stock and I plan to label it this time (after a "mystery stock" incident last week.)

I have learned to go easy on the celery, after having some local celery trimmings take a large pot of veggie stock hostage and turn it very astringent/bitter/nasty. Yuck.

[Susan]

Made the stock as Ruhlman instructed. However, since we only had a turkey breast (bone-in of course) I used that. Did for 5 hours with aromatics in for last hour. I was also kind of concerned that it was pale, but I strained it right away (first collander, then through a thin kitchen cloth b/c that is all I had).

I had about 20 cups or so until I dumped about four cups on the floor (partial nightmare come true). Dog was happy, though. It is all in the freezer. Risotto is planned.

It may also turn into x-mas gifts.

I like the idea of hoarding chicken carcasses until you have enough for stock so I try that. I already hoard bananas in the freezer (for bread) and cubes of pesto.

[Jenn]

Sounds like a good plan. Just think, my stove won't be occupied for the whole day when making stock! Deffinately going to try that.