Ah, the cookware. There are a million different opinions, and this one is just mine. While I do think it is worthwhile to shell out a little extra cash for great cookware, I realize that isn't an option for everyone (fortunately, I have a generous MIL and used to work at Williams Sonoma), so whenever possible I've included lower-priced options if you need some time to save up.
The most important thing which covers pretty much all types of cooking is even heat retention. Although you can get away with thinner or cheaper pots for some things, having a pot which conducts heat evenly and well is a necessity in any kitchen.
Multiple-layered cookware is one of the best ways to achieve even heat conduction, which is why All Clad is one of the number one choice of picky home cooks. The aluminum (or more expensive copper) core helps conduct heat, while the stainless layers make the cookware non-reactive and easy cleaning. All Clad Stainless is my cookware of choice because it can go in the dishwasher (the M2 and LTD series really don't do well in the dishwasher, making them an automatic ix-nay in my book) and in the moderate price range (all things considered).
The better the heat conduction, the easier food will release from the pan. Once you learn how to cook with great cookware, you will become familiar with how long to preheat your pans so that they will stick even less.
If you can afford one piece of All Clad, I would recommend one of two 4 quart models: the sauce pan with loop and long handle ($220), or the 4 quart saute pan with lid ($200). Of course, you can tell from these eye-popping prices that you might do just as well to save up for one of the sets - for example, a 10 piece set with 2 saute pans and 4 covered pots can be had for $850 (this is similar to the set I have). One way to maximize your value is to look for value-added promotional sets which are frequently sold at kitchen stores. This might include utensils (although I am personal not at all fond for their utensils, despite my love of the pots), aprons, hot pads, cookbooks or even extra pieces. As with most high end kitchen products, the prices of All Clad are pretty much fixed, so you are going to pay about the same no matter where you shop. This is why you should buy locally.
What if I can't afford All Clad? I would recommend a more affordable set of clad-base pans, such as this set at Costco ($200) for 2 saute pans and 5 covered pots, along with steamer insert. While All clad features pans completely constructed of all the layers of aluminum and stainless, these pans have multiple-layer bases only; the sides are stainless. If you have a gas stove, these will probably be fine for you because it seems as though gas heat radiates a little further up the sides of the pan; however, electric stoves, which concentrate the heat right at the bottom of the pans, aren't really great with these cheaper pans. (I'm a little prejudice against electric, so take it with a grain of salt.
What if I still can't afford that cookware? I would recommend adjusting your cooking style a little bit. You might want to use more nonstick pans for stove top cooking. For soup-making and long braises, use the oven, which will apply heat to the entire pot, creating a more even heating environment within the pot itself.
What about Cast Iron and enameled cast iron?
Great question! I love cast iron - both enameled and plain seasoned. Cast iron by itself, by producers such as Lodge, can be a great alternative to expensive All Clad products, because iron retains heat very well, resists sticking, and lasts forever. However, it doesn't go in the dishwasher and requires a little bit of loving care, especially if you live in a humid environment (such as Central Ohio in the summertime), where your cast iron will rust lightly just by sitting on the shelves. Cast iron skillets are great for all kinds of uses. My only complaint is they are heavy and can't be tossed around like a light skillet can (but we'll get to tossing in a bit).
Of course, the creme de la creme of modern cast iron cookware is Le Creuset. The nice thing about Le Creuset is that the enamel coating makes it dishwasher safe and rust free. It is also great for easy cleaning. On my wish list for Le Creuset is a stovetop grill with panini press.
What about other types of cookware should I think about?
As much as I love my All Clad, I really think there is a place in the kitchen for nonstick cookware. First of all, if you're feeling lazy or don't want to deal with a lot of cleanup, or you're cooking something fragile such as eggs or pancakes or fish, you need to have nonstick. This is where my opinion differs from others. While some suggest shelling out extra for top of the line nonstick, I heartily disagree here. I buy cheap nonstick. Why? So that I don't feel bad replacing it every 2 years or so. It might not be sustainable, but the nonstick coasting never lasts, and I really don't want my heart broken over a $200 saute pan, when I am perfectly happy with my $20 12" saute pan from Macy's Martha Stewart Collection (speaking of which, they are currently on sale for $14!!)? But what about nonstick pans being toxic? Yes, it's possible, but only at extremely high temperatures. If you are cooking with nonstick at over 500 degrees, you are probably getting some good carcinogens mixed into your meal as well.
A roasting pan: I love my roasting pan, and am very thankful that I purchased it on the super cheap in my Williams Sonoma days, because I would never have paid $250 for it then, but it's totally worth it. I love the roasting pan because it's BIG. You can cook anything in this baby, whether it's a giant saute or a 20 pound roast. And, flying in the face of my nonstick rationale, my roasting pan is nonstick, which makes it very nice for cleaning, because roasting can sometimes be a messy endeavor, especially since most roasting pans don't fit in the sink. This giant roaster is also great if you don't have a large stock pot, because it can usually hold a lot and goes from stovetop to oven if you're making chili or something.
What about a pressure cooker? I've been toying with the idea of getting a pressure cooker, mainly because I am impatient and forgetful, which really gets in the way if, say, you're going to make beans for dinner from dried. However. When I was about 6 or 7, a pressure cooker full of grapes exploded on my mom in our kitchen. It was ugly. The injuries were scary and the amount of grapes on the ceiling in our kitchen was amazing. This sort of scarred me for life when it comes to cooking with pressure and I'm still a little gun-shy at the prospect. However, people assure me that today's pressure cookers are totally safe. Maybe one day. We'll see.
I love my steamer insert, and highly recommend them to anyone. Steaming is my favorite method of cooking veggies - even if they're going to get a saute later - and it's great for things like dumplings and things you might put in the microwave if you don't have one. Of course, as we get closer to fresh veggie season, I will be using my steamer more and more. I even give potatoes a quick steam if they're about to be roasted.
Another great - and certainly affordable - place to buy cookware is in restaurant supply stores. Inexpensive saute pans can be nice for quick cooking, but keep in mind they are for exactly that - quick cooking. They are thin, and get hot very quick, meaning they burn easily. Pans like these are great for things like eggs and fish (if they're nonstick) and are always good if you like to toss your veggies in the pan. These pans are meant for tossing and you can be successful at it if you give it a chance. I believe Julia Child recommended spreading a layer of dried beans in your saute pan and then going outside and learning to toss. Once you can do it a hundred times spilling nary a bean, you're ready to do veggies.
More Tips about Cookware - One nice thing about cookware is that occasionally certain pieces are discontinued, meaning you can get a great price on pieces which work just as well but might be in a discontinued color or shape. When I worked at Williams Sonoma, I scored a tomato-shaped 3 quart dish for $18, a piece which originally was over $150.


