Restaurant Widow

Skillet Rustic

It's been awhile since I have been so excited over the potential of a newcomer to the Columbus restaurant scene. It might be the fact that I am still under the influence of lots of pork jus, but I foresee a lot of revisits to Skillet in my future.

Skillet opened very quietly about 3 weeks ago in the small space formerly occupied by Banana Bean, which moved to a new location on Greenlawn. I only heard about them because I follow them on twitter and they have a tendency to to tweet their daily specials.  Finally when they tweeted "Cowgirl Creamery Farmhouse Cheddar" this morning, I asked Husband if I could treat him to brunch.  Surprisingly he agreed (he doesn't like to travel very far for food).

The space has been simplified a bit from the Banana Bean days; the kitchen has been expanded very slightly (it's still a small kitchen), and there are about 8 tables.  You order at the kitchen presentation counter and your food is delivered to you shortly thereafter.  

Looking over the menu, I knew instantly that Husband would be ordering the porchetta sandwich.  I was torn between the apple cheddar pancakes and the short rib sandwich, but we knew we would have to have the breakfast risotto as well.  And then there were sides which included roasted beets and other yummy things.   We finally settled on the porchetta, the risotto, a side of Yukon Gold potatoes, and the roasted beets.

 

Porchetta is basically a pig which has been gutted and had all of its meat put back inside of the skin, and then rolled up and roasted long and slow. It's a little fatty (but it's pork fat, the most delicious of the fats). When I worked at G. Michael's, Chef did this a few times when we would get in suckling pigs from JB King.  It was always one of those things that we could never sell as a special but the staff adored.  Skillet's version is succulent and tender; heavily seasoned with garlic and a few herbacious aromatics.  It is served on a toasted ciabatta roll which has been doused with a good bit of pork braising jus for good measure (here's a closeup of the beauty):

 

 

I was eating this sandwich, thinking to myself it might be one of the best pieces of pork I had eaten in a long long time, and how that was a good thing because The Day the Music Died was playing in the restaurant and I knew at that instant I would be hearing it in my brain all day long and maybe for the rest of the weekend.  Husband and I ate this sandwich with a knife and fork, nodding to each other the whole time, reveling in its yumminess.  It was so rich that we both agreed it would be well served with a little arugula, sauerkraut or some quick pickled peppers and onions.  It was amazing.

One of the sides we settled on was roasted Yukon gold potatoes with "burnt ends." These are the ends of the roasted pork, and again. Amazing.  Full of flavor but not greasy - the pork almost had a twice-fried pork texture. Yummy.

 

 

We also chose the roasted beets, which again, were perfect and delicious.  There was a combination of red and orange beets with a generous amount of good goat cheese and toasted almonds.  The beets were earthy, meaty, and delicious without the dirt flavor so many people find objectionable (earthy, but not dirty). This was a very nicely balanced dish and we also loved it with the potatoes.

 

Lastly, we chose the breakfast risotto with mascarpone, peaches and red-eye gravy.  Now, some of you might not know that today "dawned" cold and rainy and yucky.  This risotto was the perfect cure for the weather, and might be the perfect thing to eat every Saturday morning all winter long.  The risotto was rich but not too sweet (which is one of my favorite kinds of sweet). The peaches were caramelized with a good bit of sugar which was crunchy and slightly burnt (in a good way, like a proper creme brulee top).  A splash of bourbon and molasses redeye gravy (a coffee-based gravy popular in the south).  The molasses and coffee provide a nice bitter counterpoint to the richness of the mascarpone, so that the overall affect was rich and comforting, but grown up:

 

  We were way full, and I was grateful that Husband reminded me that I am always trying to order way too much.  I can't wait to go back sometime this week to try something different.

My only request for Skillet would be that they have a very simple bitter green salad on their menu.  A little chopped frisee with olive oil, lemon juice, and salt would have been the perfect side to refresh the palate.  Okay I have one more request - if there were any restaurant who would serve marrow bones in the city, I could see Skillet doing it.  So when you put those on the menu (with some toast points and aforementioned salad), please tweet me first and I'll be there in batman-like time.

I believe Skillet is a family operation, with a father and son chef team; however I do not know the owners or anything about them (yet!).  With food like this, I wish them nothing but the best.

And now a request for patrons: this place is small, the kitchen is small.  So please, be patient when you go. Don't whine and complain about tight quarters or the smallish menu.  If they get super busy and food takes awhile, understand that it takes time to make food this good.  We didn't wait long for anything but I'm just preparing for the inevitable crowds that will arrive and then complain when they can't get a table (it happened with Banana Bean).

Skillet R.U.F. (Rustic Urban Food) bills itself thusly: "Seasonal, farm to table comfort classics with an edge. Always ingredient driven, with complex flavors, but never complicated."  For once, a restaurant really, really lives up to their mission statement in every way.  (Okay, there were peaches with the risotto, but they were still tasty).

Skillet is doing a very smart thing in starting small, with limited hours until they get things down, and then they will be opening for longer hours.  At this time there is no liquor license, which can sometimes be a downer for dinner; however it does keep people from lingering in the small space.  For my piece of unsolicited advice, I would forgo a full liquor license and spring for beer only, which would match the food perfectly and save on space.

Okay. Now I'm going to slip into a brief food coma before work.

Info:: Skillet Rustic Urban Food 410 E Whittier (German Village, Schumacher - I can never get the boundaries straight down there ) 614.443.2266

Thoughts on Vegetarian Centerpiece for Thanksgiving

I've been loving reading your thoughts on Thanksgiving.  And while they have all been great, the one thing which has been plaguing me the most is a vegetarian centerpiece.  The biggest problem I encountered with nearly all of my thoughts was trying to avoid reusing ingredients which would already be on the table.  I came up with all sorts of thoughts, and then I found myself standing in the kitchen getting a snack when my eyes fell upon a giant Heirloom Banana Hubbard Squash I had picked up from Wayward Seed Farm.

This squash is about 18 inches long and 8 inches in diameter; it's a beast.  And it would certainly make a centerpiece.  So here's what I'm working on: giant squash with a mostly traditional stuffing of bread, exotic mushrooms, and roasted chestnuts.  I'm going to work out a recipe...

Do You Need Help with Thanksgiving?

I will admit it: I try to avoid hosting Thanksgiving. It's just that when I host it, I have a hard time being thankful about anything - just being honest.  The best Thanksgiving I've had as an adult was when Husband and I hosted an "orphan" Thanksgiving for lots of friends and coworkers in a restaurant where he used to work.  The nice thing about hosting Thanksgiving at a restaurant is there is plenty of equipment and, best of all - big Hobart dishwasher.  You can use as many dishes as you like when there is a dishwasher that will clean just about any mess in 3 minutes flat.

I do have a few favorite Thanksgiving recipes I enjoy, and I usually share them (the same ones, pretty much) every year.

But before I start writing about Thanksgiving this year, I am wondering what you are doing for Thanksgiving?  Are you hosting? Cooking? Staying in? Going out?  

And do you have any questions.  Do you need recipes? advice?

Are you a restaurant who is open for Thanksgiving?

I'm eager to hear what you would like to know.

If you have any advice to offer, please offer that, too.  I will try to answer as many questions as I can, put the rest out there for others to answer, and gather all of your suggestions into one post.

Have A Local Thanksgiving

I just receive this press release from OEFFA.  I am so happy to hear their Thanksgiving CSA was such a hit last year that they are doing it again.  From what I remember, they sell out pretty quickly, so hurry up!

Giving Thanks to Local Farmers:

Families Can Purchase Locally-Raised, Sustainably-Produced Turkey and

 Veggies for Thanksgiving

 

Columbus, OH—Ohio consumers are finding another reason to be thankful this holiday season. On Sunday November 22, families can go “over the river and through the woods” to a Westerville farm to pick up a box of locally-grown, chemical-free, and organic produce to use in their Thanksgiving meal.

The Thanksgiving Boxes are the work of the Ohio Ecological Food & Farm Association (OEFFA).

 “People who buy the boxes have reported back to us that not only do they appreciate the fabulous flavors of this fresh, local food, but that it also adds a mindfulness to their celebration of Thanksgiving,” says Carol Goland, OEFFA’s Executive Director. “They feel good about supporting small family farmers.”

 The centerpiece of the box is a delicious, fresh, pastured-raised turkey. This year's box will also include potatoes, squash, eggs, garlic, fresh herbs, beets, onions, apples, sweet potatoes, cabbage, flour, greens, broccoli, and pie pumpkins.

 “The farmers are especially gratified because over the years they’ve seen that they are helping families create new traditions in their homes,” added Goland. “What better time than Thanksgiving is there to be thankful for the land, our bountiful local food, and the good farmers who grow it?”

 The Thanksgiving boxes can be purchased with or without the turkey. A $25 deposit is required to reserve a turkey, with the balance due at pick-up. The vegetable box, which can feed 6 to 8 people, can be purchased for $55. All of the money collected for the boxes will go into the hands of local farmers.

 For more information or to place an order, go to www.oeffa.org/thanksgiving.php. The deadline for placing an order is November 6

Sneak Peak at Anthony Bourdain's New Animated Web Series

***UPDATE**** So many of you emailed to ask when/where Bourdain is coming! He will be here Saturday, November 21st at the Palace.  I'm already super excited.  Husband got tickets for me for my birthday! what a sweet man.  I hope to see you there!!  

My personal hero, Anthony Bourdain, has started a funny new animated series entitles Alternate Universe, which will show a glimpse into his twisted brain.  

Did you know, by the way, that Mr. Bourdain has done more than just write non fiction about the twisted underbelly of the restaurant world.  He's also written fiction works which take place in this same underbelly.  That reminds me it's time to re-read Bone in the Throat after 10 years...

At any rate, the nice people at the Travel Channel gave me a little teaser to share with you!

And of course, don't forget that Bourdain will speak in Columbus on November 21st. The question is, will he eat while in Columbus, and where? 

Enjoy!

So, Chefs & Cooks - What's Your Opinion?

The other night I was watching Top Chef when I heard something very bizarre. So bizarre that Husband and I stopped and looked at each other in disbelief. We had to rewind just to be sure we had heard correctly.  

One of the chefs made a deconstructed (I know, I'm getting tired of it, too) bouillabaisse which included clams and mussels.  Tom Colicchio and the other judges too the chef to task for steaming her shellfish to order.  They all seemed to be in agreement that they would never steam to order and couldn't believe she had.  They insisted she should have done it in advance.

What?

In 99% of the restaurants in which I've worked, we have steamed everything to order.  Mussels take, what 4 minutes? Not to mention they are an easy no-brainer. A child could successfully steam shellfish. When they open, they are done. Easy peasy pudding and pie.  

That reminds me of a restaurant where I once worked, where the chefs would get oysters in a jar. they would then place the oyster on a shell. Of course, they aren't opened anymore. This is why you should only order oysters on the half shell if you can see them being shucked.  Canned oysters are appropriate for frying, but on the half shell in an expensive restaurant?  I think not.

But I digress.  I pose this question to all the cooks out there: have you worked in a restaurant where you pre-steamed shellfish?  And if you do this, can you defend your decision to do so?  

Thank you for your participation.

Info for Bulk Club Buyers - October 22nd

First of all, THANK YOU!! for buying into our first Bulk Club!  I think it was pretty successful, although of course there are always a few hitches (my brown rice didn't arrive, I gave one shopper another's pound of quinoa), but all in all, I think it has been fun and I hope you think so, too.

Secondly, if you are interested in the next go-round, please send me an email (LisaTheWaitressATgmailDOTcom) and I'll keep you posted.  Please put "bulk club" in the subject line so I don't miss you.  For the next club, I will be getting more vanilla beans, beluga lentils, peppercorns, dried fruits, yeast, dipping chocolate, a few varieties of exotic rice, and a few health products such as soy & whey protein, amongst tons of other things.  I am always open to suggests.

If you participated in bulk club, please leave your thoughts, critiques, requests, complaints, ideas, and recipes in the comments section!

First of all, a few notes - If your purchased the snack mixes or veggie chips, your bags are more like 2 ounces, because when I measured out 1 ounce, it just looked really silly.  So I'm trying to decide what to do for the next time.  I am thinking about doing my own custom mixes, because I thought the almonds which were sold separately were much tastier than the ones in the mix (even though they came from the same company).  I really like the idea of having the little snack packs, because if you pack your lunch or whatever, then you have something really quick to just grab and go.  Maybe you can provide some insight.

If you ordered chocolate, I really encourage your to taste it next to even an expensive store brand. I think you will be surprised by how good this chocolate is.  Go ahead - try it. Tasty? Good. Because I priced it wrong, and next time it will probably be a little more expensive (.75 - $1 more/pound). Again, I think Guittard is the best for its price (Vahlrona and other high-end chocolates are up to $16/pound).  That being said, if there are any super chocolate snobs out there, or if you are interested in buying a chocolate flight or single origin chocolates, please let me know.  Single origin chocolates are somewhat like wine in how they represent the climate and earth from which they came.  They really are very interesting to taste. These are especially good for the holidays.  But again, remember, they are expensive.  But delicious.

I can also get cocoa powder; of course it will be more expensive than the stuff in the brown box, but...

If you are planning to make chocolates, chocolate covered fruits, nuts, or cookies, I can get a great Guittard product which is made for this purpose and does not require tempering - just melt, dip, and cool

If you are interested in making your own vanilla extract, I can get vanilla bean seconds (still delicious, but uneven/bruised, etc) for about 3/4 the price of regular vanilla beans.  These are probably completely fine for baking and flavoring too, but they aren't the prettiest things.

Now for bean talk!  Before I pimp my own recipes, here is a good article with a few good tips for making beans (why rewrite it when it's done well the first time).  I will only add that I never plan ahead and so I frequently find myself doing a quick soak.  To do this, bring the beans to boil in a pot of water, then turn the heat off and allow the beans to sit for an hour or so.  The beans will still take about 4 hours to cook, but at least you have a little head time...One of you great bulk clubbers recommended a Mark Bittman recipe for making beans in large doses and then freezing them in vacu-packs along with their liquid, which will keep them very much like canned beans (but of course more delicious).  This would be great for someone like me who, as I've just mentioned, can never think ahead.

If you are new to cooking beans, I strongly recommend that you begin with the lentils.  French green lentils are delicious; they maintain their shape as long as they aren't overcooked, they cook up in about 20 minutes, and of course, they are delicious.  They are so good that I am really fond of them with just a drizzle of good olive oil and a sprinkling of salt.  One of my coworkers made an amazing Mexican lentil soup which I plan to recreate very soon.  Here are a few of my favorite lentil recipes:

Chef Blondin's (Refectory) Curried Apple and French Green Lentil Salad (stop wrinkling your nose. It's delicious)

Spicy Lamb and Lentil Stew.

Lamb with Green Lentils & Feta.

You can use the Cannolini beans and the Cranberry  interchangeably, although the Cannolini beans will have a softer texture and smoother flavor.  Creanberry beans are a hybrid of Kidney beans and will be more robust. Here again I love to cook the beans simply with some herbs and then serve them with some olive oil, vinegar or lemon juice and salt and pepper.  Here are some recipes:

Italian Sausage with White Beans and Kale.

Baked Beans (especially good with the cranberry beans)

Cuban Red Beans and Rice.

Risotto with Cranberry beans and Sausage.

 

Stop Saying You aren't a Baker and Bake.

  

 Every time I watch Top Chef I want to take those chefs and shake them senseless. Why? Well, they all put themselves up as the good lord's gift to the culinary world and yet most of them are rendered powerless in the face of a simple dessert.  I just don't get this.  I, a mere home cook, have at least five go-to, memorized dessert recipes in my head (here are three: 30 egg yolks, 3 whole eggs, 10 lbs sweetened condensed milk, 3 cups fresh lemon juice, zest of 4 lemons (lemon tart filling); 30 egg yolks, 3 whole eggs, 1 quart heavy cream, 1 quart 1/2 and 1/2, 1/4 tsp corn syrup, 3 cups sugar, 4 vanilla beans and 4 tbsp vanilla extract (creme brulee) and of course, 1 pound dark chocolate, 1 pound hazelnuts, 1 pound butter, 1/4 cup Frangelico, 10 eggs, 1/4 cup sugar (flourless chocolate torte).  

See how easy that was? I just want to slap those chefs (except Stephanie Izzard, she was my hero).  Beyond that, you can make ganache with 2 ingredients (chocolate and cream) and turn it into truffles with just about no effort (you can infuse the cream with such yummy flavors as earl grey tea, espresso powder, chai, pepper, etc). You can poach fruits and top them with flavored whipped cream....

Beyond that, every chef should have a simple 3-2-1 pate brisee recipe in their head (unsweetened dough, similar to pie dough; the 3-2-1 refers to the ratio of flour-butter-water), and it takes just a little rolling to make a free-form fruit tart...

Not to mention, you can make something like ice cream with heavy cream and sugar!

Okay. Enough ranting.  I love making fruit crisps, and think they are the perfect dessert for the cook who thinks they can't bake.  Why? well, there's really no measuring. You can use your cook's intuition to determine how much sugar and cinnamon to use, and you can do almost everything with your hands.  It's perfect.

This is the perfect time of year for this dessert; don't stress over it; as long as you have great, in-season, fresh fruits and good quality cinnamon and you're in business.

This is really more of a method than a recipe. It can work with most fruits which can hold some of their shape and taste delicious when baked - apples, pears, even sweet potatoes. In the summer, cherries, peaches, and berries (or a mixture) are great as well.  

Here are the basic stats:

Preheat your oven to 350.

For the Filling - plan on one piece of fruit per serving.  For a 9X9 pan, this would be 9 apples, 12 for a 9X12 pan, etc.  Have at least 2 extra fruits on hand, or an alternative (berries or a complementary fruit. If you are using a smaller fruit, plan on about 3/4 - 1 cup fruit per serving. 1/2 cup sugar for ever 5 pieces of fruit.  1/4 tsp each cornstarch and cinnamon for each 1/2 cup of sugar, and lemon juice. A few pinches of butter (1 tsp per piece of fruit).

Peel and chop the apples and place them in your baking dish. You are doing this more for measuring reasons, so you don't have to do anything to prep the pan.  You want the fruit to at least reach the top of the baking dish, if not mound just a little bit.  Tip the chopped fruit into a large bowl and sprinkle liberally with lemon juice.  Toss.  Sprinkle the sugar/cornstarch/cinnamon mixture over the fruit and toss everytthing (I like to use my hands for this).  Each chunk of fruit should be completely coated with the mixture.

Pinch small pats of butter into your baking dish and pour in the apples.  Bake this for 15 minutes.

For the Deliciously Crumbly Topping - Equal parts flour, oatmeal (quick cooking - just the plain old kind in the big cylindrical box) brown sugar, and butter.  Start with 1/2 cup each. Melt the butter. In a bowl, combine the brown sugar, flour, and oatmeal.  Sprinkle with cinnamon (I like a dusting over everything) and add a pinch of salt.  Stir lightly to combine and then add the melted butter.  Combine everything (again, I like to use my hands), making sure the butter is completely combined.  You are looking for a finished product which you can pinch into a shape and it won't fall apart right away.  You might have to add a little more butter.

Remove the apples from the oven and cover with the crumb topping.  Bake at 350 for half and hour, then lower the heat to 300 and cook for another 15-20 minutes, making sure the topping does not get too brown. Allow the crisp to cool for at least 20 minutes before serving with some delicious ice cream, such as Jeni's Salty Caramel or Saigon Cinnamon.

There you go. Now stop whining, man up, and make some dessert.

You could add some finely-chopped nuts - especially Ohio black walnuts, which should be coming into season soon.

I also love to add a pinch of ground cardamom to the cinnamon sugar, and of course nutmeg and allspice would be good as well. If you can find it, Appalachian Allspice, or spicebush berry, is great as well.

a little splash of Calvados (Apple Brandy) would be tasty used instead of the lemon juice.

Use apples which will keep their shape (an "eating" vs a "baking apple); or use a combination of soft baking apples, which will melt into the sauce, and firm apples, which will provide a nice texture.

For this batch, I also used a vanilla bean to flavor the apples (cut the seeds from the pod and rub them into sugar with your fingers); it was delicious.

Let's Talk About Pork, Baby (more Recession cooking)

Pork is a gift from the heavens for those eating frugally.  There's just something about pork products that makes them amazingly delicious, and even in small doses, pork just makes about anything better.

When we first started talking about eating frugally, I mentioned a big way to do this is to move meat from the main star of the meal into a more supportive role.  In my opinion, there is no better meat to accomplish this beautifully than pork.  From bacon to sausage to ears and feet - there just really isn't a meat more delicious than the pig.  It's deliciousness means a little goes a long way.  

Don't be scared of the lesser bits when it comes to eating, especially eating frugally.  I am sure you will discover what Louis Prima knew long ago - that the closer to the bone, the sweeter is the meat.  Here are a few cuts and thoughts on what to do with them...

One of the best things pork has to offer is its gelatin.  Full of flavor but without fat, the gelatin which comes from bony pork cuts creates a rich flavor and mouth feel.  This creates the allusion of savory fattiness which also makes a meal - even one without a lot of meat - very satisfying.  

• Ham Hock/Ham Knuckles: might be one of my favorite additives.  When I used to work at G. Michael's, I would always try to be around when the greens were coming off the stove.  Workers lucky enough to being around could enjoy the small bits of sweet braised meat clinging to the ham hock.  There isn't a ton of meat on a ham hock, but it is full of flavor.  Throw one into a pot of beans, lentils, or greens while they are cooking and you won't believe the flavor it adds.  When the beans are finished cooking, I like to remove the ham hock and carefully pick all of the meat out of it.  A few bites are the cook's treat, and everything else can be shredded and thrown back in.  Smoked ham hocks are very inexpensive - about $1 each, depending on size.  I usually like to use about 1 hock for every 4 quarts of liquid.
• Trotters: extremely inexpensive and absolutely full of gelatin, trotters add flavor and dimension to stocks which simply can't be matched by any other cut or variety of meat.  You might remember when we first made chicken and pork stock here at Chez Widow; it has become a staple in our freezer.  Trotters are great for adding seasoning and depth to soups; where I would use ham hocks to flavor mostly dry preparations (beans, greens), trotters are great for something which will end up a bit broth-ey-er.  Of course, trotters also make great sausages, but I'm just not quite there yet.
• Sausage: I love cooking with sausage. I love everything about it, but I think the best thing about sausage is that it is already seasoned, so you can replace a lot of ingredients with sausage (see 4 -ingredient bean soup).  You can use one sausage to flavor a pot of soup, risotto, greens, pasta - a little goes a long way, and if you start viewing meat as more of a flavoring agent, you will amazed that one sausage can indeed feed a few people.
• Bacon: do I really have to say anything here? Bacon makes everything better.
• Pancetta: is the Italian version of bacon.  The belly is salt-cured, rather than being smoked as it is in the US, and then rolled tightly. The result is a large, round, sausage-looking tube.  Pancetta has an earthier, saltier, and much gamy-er flavor compared to its rather mild American cousin. Although a little expensive by the pound, you can purchase it by the slice and it really isn't that expensive.  I usually buy it from the deli case, where you can have it sliced 1/4 inch thick, and then cut it into cubes easily at home.  Because of the fat content, I like to put it in the freezer for half an hour before trying to chop it.
• And of course, let us not forget, should you really want pork to be the center of attention, that the lesser cuts of pork are some of the most delicious.  Who needs tenderloin or dry loin when you can have succulent, slowly braised shoulder, salty cottage ham, country ribs, cheeks, or so-could-you-could-cry belly? 

Pork recipes I have loved:

White Bean and Kale Soup with Sausage.
Sausage with Grapes.
Sausage Risotto.
Pasta with Sausage and Arugula.
Sausage Biscuits with Gravy.
Hoppin' John with Pork Shoulder.
The Goodness of Country Pork Ribs.
Pork Trotter Stock.
Baked Beans.
White Beans & Rice with Ham Hock.
Cheesy Grits with Bacon.
Carbonara with Wild Boar Bacon.
Pasta with Squash, Sprouts, and Bacon.
and of course, let us not forget my Absolutely Perfect Brussels Sprouts.

A Little Bit of Lisa the Waitress History

applebutter, originally uploaded by Lisa the Waitress.

Special thanks to my sister for posting this memory on Facebook! This was taken some time in the 80s (I'm guessing 84ish). This is my dear Grandfather (see? I keep telling you I am from Amish stock!) stirring apple butter. Our family has the definitive apple butter recipe in all of Amish land. The 2 copper-lined kettles we make it in are so cherished that their ownership is in debate amongst my father and all of his siblings.

My mother is on the left with the fabulous sunglasses.

Memories. One day I'll write a little essay on my Grandfather. He used to recite poetry to me and was a huge baseball fan.

*By the way - my sister is working on a small version of our apple butter (the current recipe starts off with something like 30 gallons of apple sauce).  After she tests it, and after I confirm I will not be disinherited for posting it, I will post it.