Restaurant Widow

Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

I set out yesterday to make espresso ice cream, thinking that perhaps I would try to teach myself how to make an ice cream with chocolate bits in it (mint chip is my favorite, and I am hoping to make some this summer with fresh mint and lots of really good dark chocolate).  However, reaching into the cupboard for the espresso powder, I noticed a tin of dulce de leche I bought at the Mexican grocery a few weeks ago when I was making a flan, and I decided to try it out instead.

Good idea, Lisa!  It's really good, and the more I make this ice cream (Jeni's eggless recipe from this month's Food & Wine), the better the texture seems to be.  This probably had the best texture yet and was rich without being too cloying.  You should try it!  It does require just a little extra mixing, but it's still finished in about 15 minutes (minus the chilling and freezing time, of course).

Please click through for the recipe; here are my adaptations:

1/2 can (about 7 ounces) dulce de leche, available in the Mexican section of large grocery stores
Mix this in the mixer with the cream cheese, stopping and scraping every few seconds to ensure it is completely mixed (it took me 3 scrapings to be perfect)
Reduce the sugar by half.
Increase salt by a few pinches.
I used 1 tbsp vanilla bean extract (the good stuff, please) instead of vanilla pods; however, if you go overboard on the amount, this can theoretically cause the ice cream to have a slightly more loose texture, because of the alcohol content in the vanilla.

Proceed as normal, beating the hot cream slowly into the cheese/leche mixture to be sure everything is nicely incorporated; scrape down as needed.

Get Ready to Make Some Great Ice Cream. At Home

Absolutely delicious homemade espresso ice cream

 
Readers!!   I have been dying to tell you about this for months, and finally.  Finally, the time has come.  You are going to love me and Jeni from Jeni's Ice Cream forever.  Well, even more than you do now.

A few months ago, Jeni from Jeni's asked me if I would be interested in testing out some recipes for her.  Did I have an ice cream machine?  Would I mind buying gallons of heavy cream and milk and seeing if I could duplicate her success in my home kitchen?

Um, YES!!

Years ago, I had the worst roommate ever.  The only good thing that came from this roommate was a leftover Krups Ice Cream machine (which has been toted from house to house - and never used - ever since) and a washer and dryer (which have been toted from house to house and used extensively, ever since).  I dusted off the ice cream maker, put the freezer bowl in the deep freeze, and bought some milk and cream.  Ever few days, I'd get an email - try some honey, reduce the sugar, add a little corn syrup, boil the milk - until the recipe was perfected.  I made batch after batch, using my Husband and coworkers as guinea pigs, and then letting everyone down by telling them the recipe was top secret!  Ha ha ha!  Classified ice cream recipe!

The background is this: Food & Wine was doing a profile on Jeni, and wanted her to include some great recipes.  As Jeni explained it to me, she really thought that most people who wrote ice cream recipes didn't take into account the fact that most home cooks are dealing with rather subpar equipment.  They don't have the great machines or technology to create a homemade ice cream with a great mouthfeel.  Furthermore, Jeni thought the taste of the cooked eggs in custard-based ice cream interfered with the pure flavor of the cream.  This ice cream is amazing.  It is hands down the best homemade ice cream I have ever had.  The mouthfeel is amazing - it isn't gritty, lumpy, or full of ice crystals.  It is smooth, creamy, and rich.

The first batch I made was plain cream flavored.  I ventured out to vanilla, Ovaltine, coffee, green tea, cherry vanilla, and chai, just to name a few.  For awhile, there wasn't a time when there wasn't ice cream either being made, frozen, or ready to be frozen.  I think all of this recipe testing is responsible for those last 4 winter pounds I gained, but hey, there's loads of calcium, so it made me strong, too.

When the testing obsession began to wind down a little, Husband would sometimes look at me forlornly and ask if there wasn't any ice cream in the freeazer?  His favorite was espresso, my favorite was triple Ovaltine, and a few coworkers were particularly fond of the cherry vanilla.  The green tea was also good, but a little strange for most people.  Anyone fond of an intense matcha flavor would probably find it pleasantly bitter.

I love the ice cream straight from the ice cream freezer, when it has a texture almost like soft serve.  In theory, you can start the freezer right before dinner and have it ready for dessert, or you can make it in advance and have it ready for scooping.

As with most cream-based desserts, I found the texture, consistency, and flavor to be improved if the batter was left in the fridge overnight, but this isn't necessary.  Just better.  Of course, I imagine you'll be chomping at the bit to get started soon.  I found myself fervently wishing I had two freezer bowls so that I could make as many batches at once as possible.  And, thanks to a tip on the RW Forums, I snagged a reconditioned Cuisinart freezer for $20 (alas, they are sold out now, but here's the same ice cream maker, only new).

I'm not going to reprint the recipe, because you should show your support for Jeni by picking up June's Food & Wine, or at least click through here for the recipes.  There are also recipes for yogurt and sorbet, which I will be trying very soon.

Here are my variations:
Espresso - Add 1/2 cup instant espresso powder to the milk/cream combination
Triple Ovaltine - reduce sugar by half.  Add 1 cup chocolate Ovaltine, plus 1/2 cup each unflavored Ovaltine and 1/2 cup European Ovaltine (available in Asian grocery stores).  You can also use all chocolate Ovaltine.
Cherry Vanilla - Mix the recipe as directed.  Pour the mixture into the freezer and add 4 ounces chilled tart cherry jelly (no fruit).  I made my own, and it had a loose texture.  If you purchase a firm jelly, thin it slightly with a touch of hot water, and then chill.
Matcha (green tea) - whisk on heaping tbsp green tea powder into the milk when it is boiling.  Proceed as usual

So, get out there and make some ice cream - I promise, you will be glad you did.  Next up, I'm making yogurt.  I keep you posted, of course!

The Cake so Nice We Made it Twice

Well, Husband made it twice anyway.  Since a few of you have emailed or told me in person you'd be making the fruitcake yourself, I thought I would make these updates.

Every once in awhile, Husband takes my advice - I thought the cake would be improved with a little brown sugar, so he replaced onE cup of the sugar with brown sugar, which had delicious results - specifically, it leads to a more complex flavor and contributes extra moisture.  Furthermore, I wanted to add that the fruit is measured after being soaked and drained.  I had assumed one would measure it before, so I thought perhaps you would, too. 

In Which Husband Bakes? A Fruitcake?! And It's Delicious?!

A few weeks ago, when Husband went to wine tasting boot camp, he came home raving about the fruitcake the Master Sommelier's wife had made.  I was skeptical.  Raving about a fruitcake?  But both of us find fruitcake to be pretty horrifying, so I took his word for it.  He begged, pleaded, and fretted, and finally she sent the recipe.

Husband doesn't do a lot of baking, but the cake turned out beautifully, nonetheless (as you can see).  He did learn a few baker's secrets along the way, such as: it is much better to crack your eggs into a bowl and then add them one at a time, versus accidentally dropping the whole egg, shell and all, into the mixer with the paddle running (sorry babe, but I so rarely get to poke fun at you).

I can't say for sure, because the cake was only just baked last night, but I imagine it gets better after a day or so.  There is a lot of moisture in the cake, and it takes a long time to bake, just to let you know before you start in on the project late at night.

Vanessa's Totally Delicious, will Make You A Convert, Fruitcake - makes a Bundt Pan - about 12-15 servings

5 cups different dried fruits chopped (we used candied kumquats, cherries, cranberries, figs, and pineapple)
2 tbsp finely chopped crystallized ginger
Enough brandy (we used red wine) to cover the fruit
1 ½ c butter at room temp.
2 ½ c sugar
8 eggs at room temp.
1 tbsp pure vanilla extract
½ tsp salt
3 cups cake flour, sifted before measuring
2 cups chopped, toasted nuts (we used walnuts)

Combine the fruits (chopped if large, such as the figs) and ginger and cover with the alcohol of your choice.  Place in the fridge overnight or until the fruits are plumped.  When you are ready to make the cake, drain them and squeeze out extra moisture with paper towels.  Reserve the liquid.

Preheat oven to 325.  Brush a (10 cup) Bundt pan with melted butter, the coat with flour.  Tap the pan to remove excess flour. 

In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter on medium speed for about 7 minutes, until fluffy.  Add the sugar and continue creaming until fluffy again, about 4 minutes.  add the eggs one at a time, beating after each.  Add the vanilla and salt.  Reduce the speed to low and add the flour (don't overmix!).  Using a wooden spoon, fold in the fruit and nuts until fully incorporated. Spoon the batter into the pan, making sure the top is even.  Bake about 1 hour and 50 minutes (it took over 2 hours for Husband) or until a toothpick comes out clean.  Transfer to a rack and brush about 2 tbsp. brandy (we didn't have brandy, so we used a late harvest pinot gris; any alcohol would be good) over the cake.  Cool in the pan for 5 minutes.  Invert the cake onto the rack and carefully lift off the pan. Brush the entire cake with brandy or whatever again and cool completely,  when the cake is cooled, wrap it in plastic and foil and refrigerate.  You can continue to brush it with booze every day until consumed. 

This is really tasty with coffee for breakfast, a fact to which I can personally attest.  Husband was baking into the wee hours of the morning.

Recipe courtesy of Vanessa C.  Thanks!

Gluten Free Lemon Tart

Dear Trader Joe's:

I know how you are fond of introducing and then discontinuing really great products (puff pastry wrapped brie with no fruit, nuts or other nonsense, curry in phyllo are just 2 which come to mind), but I am warning you: if you discontinue the gluten-free gingersnaps, I'm going to start carrying out some of those threats I've mentioned when you constantly run out of my favorite product, which alas, has to go unmentioned because it is already popular enough. 

Cheers!

I've mentioned before that my father has Celiac (double click for more info) disease, which is an intolerance to wheat gluten.  A lot of people have scoffed at this notion - especially restaurant workers who have to deal with guests who can't have gluten - but it is actually a serious condition, mainly because it inhibits one's ability to absorb vitamins and minerals.  At any rate, whenever I have my parents over for dinner, I try to think up new things to make for dad, especially for dessert.  Now, I make a pretty mean flourless chocolate cake, but when I spied the gluten-free gingersnaps at Trader Joe's last week, I had a stroke of brilliance.

Once upon a time, I was a baker at a (then) Top 10 restaurant in Columbus.  I have made this lemon gingersnap tart more times than I can begin to count.  I made so many of these tarts that I actually kind of started to hate them a little bit.  But our guests loved them, so I had to keep making them.  Fortunately, years have passed, and I can face them again.  This tart is so incredibly easy that I always feel a little guilty about accepting complements on it.  But not too guilty.  You don't have to use gluten free gingersnaps, of course, but for anyone who can't have gluten, this tart tastes just as tasty as its wheaty counterpart, so it will make them very happy (it made Dad very happy, and so did the leftover gingersnaps).

Gluten Free Lemon Gingersnap Tart - serves 8
recipe adapted from David Tetzloff

For the Crust
1 8 ounce package Trader Joe's gluten free gingersnaps
1/4 cup sugar
pinch of salt
1/3 - 1/2 cup melted butter

Preheat oven to 350.  Combine the sugar, salt and gingersnaps in the bowl of a food processor and blitz to crumbs.  Pour the crumbs into a bowl and gradually add the butter until you have the consistency of wet sand.  Lightly spray a 9 inch tart pan  (with removable bottom) with cooking spray, place the pan on a half sheet pan and press the crumb mixture into the pan.  I like to use a wide, flat glass to ensure even crumb distribution.  Place the sheet tray in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.  Cook until the crust looks dry and has a smooth surface.  Allow to cool, place it in a fridge if you're in a hurry.

For the Tart Filling
1 14 ounce can sweetened condensed milk (fat free even works)
3/4 cup lemon juice, or to taste
zest and juice of one lemon, in addition (optional)
7 large egg yolks

Combine the lemon juices and zest in a blender and blend to combine, then strain through a fine mesh strainer.  This step is optional, but I think it helps boost the tartness.  Combine the sweetened condensed milk with the lemon juice, tasting to be sure its tart enough, adding a little more lemon juice if necessary.  Add the egg yolks and whisk to combine thoroughly.  The consistency should be a little bit jiggle like pudding.  Pour the filling into the cooled shell and bake for 15-20 minutes, rotating after 10.  The tart will be set but still a little jiggly - it should jiggle as one versus having just a jiggly center.  Cool to room temperature and then place in fridge for at least 4 hours before serving.  I like to serve it with a little whipped cream to balance the lemony tartness.

Peaches with Beaujolais

Husband came across this simple recipe while researching traditional Burgundian dishes.  I made it for my cooking demo this past week at the North Market Farmer's Festival, and it seemed to be a hit.  I think, as with the baslsamic vinegar-marinated watermelon, people found the combination surprising and tasty, even if it sounds strange.  It couldn't be simpler, and it really showcases the sweet and simple beauty of the peach harvest.  Not to mention, peaches are quite good for you, and this recipe uses just a pinch of sugar per person, so it's completely guilt free.

Beaujolais is a light red wine which is made from the Gamay grape.  For my cooking demo, I used Louis Jadot Beaujolais Village ($12, Grapes of Mirth).  Typically grown primarily in Burgundy, Gamay is grown in very small quantities in California.  For this batch of peaches, I used Edmunds St. John Bone Jolly, a great California Gamay made by a great person, Steve Edmunds, a philosophical musician whose winery is (appropriately) in Berkeley.  Once upon a time, I had the chance to see him play his guitar and sing.  It was super cool.  I also had a bottle of his syrah when I dined at the French Laundry.  (Edmunds is also an occasional blogger; click here to read about his visit - a few years ago - to central Ohio and the Winds, among other places).

Peaches with Beaujolais - serves 4-6 guests

6 peaches, quartered and then each quarter cut in half, peeled if desired
1/4 cup turbinado sugar, or to taste
1 cup Beaujolais

Place the peaches in a large bowl.  Place the sugar in a jar and add about half of the wine.  Shake vigorously until the sugar dissolves.  Pour the mixture over the peaches and add the remaining wine.  Stir to coat, and allow the peaches to stand for just a few minutes - 5-10 - and serve in small bowls.  I'm sure if Jacques Pepin were preparing this - he is from the heart of Beaujolais country, after all - he would tell you to serve the peaches with a cookie, so there you have it - serve it with a cookie.

Strawberry Granita

Here's something to do with all those delicious strawberries which can be found right now.  Especially those at the bottom of the basket, which aren't quite perfect enough for eating out of hand.  This recipe couldn't be easer, and nothing is more refreshing on a hot June day.

Strawberry Granita - serves 2-4

3 quarts strawberries, lightly rinsed and hulled
sugar
Tiny pink of salt
6-8 large basil leaves, bruised with the back of a knife

Place the strawberries in a large bowl and sprinkle a little sugar over - about 1/2 of a cup - just enough to lightly coat all of the berries.  Allow to sit for about an hour or so at room temperature.  Cover the bowl with a plate if you have an ant or fruit fly problem.  Drain off any juice - you should have about a cup of juice.  If you don't, add enough water to make one cup of liquid.  Place the liquid in a saucepan and add 1/2 cup of sugar and the pinch of salt.  Bring to a boil so that the sugar dissolves, then turn off the heat, put the basil into the liquid and cover.  Allow to steep for 5 minutes, then remove and discard the basil.  Pour the liquid over the strawberries and mash them with a potato masher, the blend with a stick blender (or put them in a regular blender).  Pour through a fine mesh strainer to get the seeds out.  Pour the strained liquid into a shallow baking dish and place in the freezer.  After about half an hour, stir the nearly frozen liquid.  When the liquid is frozen, remove the dish and allow the granita to "ripen" for about 4-5 minutes, then scrape the entire surface with a fork, removing airy shreds of the frozen ice.  Serve with cookies or as is for dessert or snack on a hot day.  Husband ate three servings after dinner last night.

Limoncello Cupcakes

I haven't baked anything for Coworkers in awhile, and cupcakes seemed like just the thing.  If you don't have the patience for buttercream, I suppose you can make an easier version with butter and confectioner's sugar, adding the lemon flavor towards the end.  Limoncello is an Italian lemon liqueur; a digestif (to be quaffed after the meal), it is rather sweet and should be served chilled; it is available at any liquor store.  If you don't have limoncello, you can replace the liquid with all lemon juice.

I used a modified version of Nigella's fairy cake recipe from How to Be a Domestic Goddess, which makes a pretty fine cupcake.  I recommend removing them from the oven before the tops begin to brown, however; take them out when a toothpick comes out clean for a softer cake.

Cupcakes - makes 12:

1 stick butter at room temperature
scant 1/2 cup sugar
pinch salt
1/2 tsp vanilla
1 tsp lemon juice
1 tbsp Limoncello
2 eggs
zest of 1/2 lemon
3/4 cup self-raising flour
1-2 tbsp milk

Preheat oven to 400 and line a 12 cup muffin tin with liners.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream together the butter and sugar.  Add the vanilla, lemon juice, and limoncello.  Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl between additions, and blend until light and fluffy.  Add the lemon zest to the flour, tossing a little with a fork to ensure even distribution, and then gradually add the flour to the bowl, mixing on low speed.  Mix until just combined, and then add a tbsp of milk, then a little more until the mixture is a soft batter, similar to (fluffy) pancake batter.  Distribute evenly amongst cups and bake until a toothpick comes out clean.  Place tin on a wire rack to cook slightly and then remove the cupcakes to the rack to cool completely before frosting.

Lemon Buttercream Frosting - will frost more than 12 cupcakes

3/4 cup sugar
2 tbsp water
1 tsp honey (optional)
3 egg yolks
1/2 pound butter, cut into 1/2" cubes and softened
zest from 1/2 lemon
a few drops vanilla extract
1/2 tsp lemon juice
1 tbsp limoncello

Place the sugar, honey and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil (honey isn't necessary, but it's a natural emulsifier, so I like to add it whenever making frosting as an added guarantee of stability).  Lower heat slightly and boil until the mixture reaches 240 (I just allow it to boil until the eggs are ready, without taking temp), being careful not to let it burn - this takes about 3-5 minutes.
In the meantime, place the eggs yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer and mix on high (with the whip attachment) until the eggs are light and fluffy.  Lower the speed to medium-low and CAREFULLY, add the sugar mixture, pouring it between the whip and the sides of the bowl, as it will harden on the metal.  Turn the heat up to high and whip, whip, whip, until the mixture has reached warm room temperature - you can test this by placing your hands around the bottom of the bowl.  When it is no longer hot, proceed with the butter addition.  This can take up to 12 minutes, so you might want to do something else in the meantime, like the dishes.
Add the butter, piece by piece, allowing each bit to completely incorporate before adding more, about 15-20 seconds.  You will probably notice a change in consistency about halfway through, when it will start to resemble frosting.  When you have about 2 tbsp of butter left to incorporate, add the zest, juice, and limoncello, then proceed adding the butter.  Your mixture should look light and fluffy.  If it's a little soft, simply place it in the fridge for 5 minutes before frosting. 
Frost the cupcakes and refrigerate until 1/2 hour before serving, bring to room temp and serve!

Thanksgiving Recipes I've Known & Loved

Well, it's about that time of year again.  I realize I posted this same think last year, but, as Thanksgiving comes every year, it's that time again.  Here are a few of my tried and true recipes (they are not, of course, all original to me, I just mean I've made them all a hundred times and they never fail me):

Party Potatoes
Sweet Potato Casserole (don't let the term casserole scare you - I promise, even lifelong sweet potatoe haters will love this)
Lisa's Perfect Sprouts
Pumpkin Cheesecake
Bon Appetit's Creamed Corn Gratin
Alton Brown's Turkey
Alton Brown's Cranberry Sauce
Lisa's Green Beans with Bacon

Happy Eating!

80 Proof Vanilla Ice Cream

Do you even hear someone talking about one of their favorite things and it sounds so bizarre you have to try it?  So it was for me last week, as I was attending a Glenmorangie scotch tasting, and the owner of Wings restaurant in Bexley (2801 E. Main) began speaking of his love for scotch over ice cream (from what I hear, he probably loves scotch over anything - including more scotch; I'm not suggesting he's a lush, mind you: the restaurant - a Chinese restaurant, by the way - boasts one of the most definitive single malt scotch collections in the city).  Scotch over ice cream with coffee grounds.  Surely it would be terrible.

The next day, whilst standing in the walk-in freezer at work, and, er, testing the quality of the Jeni's ice cream we'd be serving that night, it hit me along with a mouthful of Maker's Mark Buttered Pecan - maybe he was on to something.

And so it came to be that I made this strange little sundae - vanilla ice cream, Glenmorangie 10 year scotch, and espresso powder (I just can't see eating coffee grounds, I'm sorry).  It was good - in truth, I underestimated the power of the espresso powder and just put it on until it looked pretty; it was a little too bitter.  I also think cold has a tendency to dull the flavors and leave the alcohol behind, but that's a risk most people take when drinking scotch on the rocks (try it neat, with just a dribble of water and you'll see what I mean). Next time, I think I'll put some caramel sauce on, which I think would match just fine with the rich caramel notes in the scotch.  Do I recommend you try it?  Absolutely - I always recommend a nice scotch for dessert!  If you can pony up the $60 for the port wood finish, I'd recommend it even more highly. 

Fun fact:  did you know?  Glenmorangie owns a forest in the Ozark mountains; they make barrels there and send them to Jack Daniels, where they age American whiskey.  The barrels are then shipped over to Scotland, where they finish out their lives aging all Glenmorangie products - the port, Madeira, sherry, and burgundy finishes start in the Jack Daniels barrels and then finish aging in the barrels for which they are named.  Speaking of burgundy finish, it should be available in Ohio as of today.  Cheers!

Oh, and by the way, let's just clear this up right now:  it's glen-MOHR-en-gee.  Soft g, as in gee whiz.  Now, business men I wait on, stop trying to make me say glen-mor-ANG-ee.  I've been right this whole time, so there!