Restaurant Widow

Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

I set out yesterday to make espresso ice cream, thinking that perhaps I would try to teach myself how to make an ice cream with chocolate bits in it (mint chip is my favorite, and I am hoping to make some this summer with fresh mint and lots of really good dark chocolate).  However, reaching into the cupboard for the espresso powder, I noticed a tin of dulce de leche I bought at the Mexican grocery a few weeks ago when I was making a flan, and I decided to try it out instead.

Good idea, Lisa!  It's really good, and the more I make this ice cream (Jeni's eggless recipe from this month's Food & Wine), the better the texture seems to be.  This probably had the best texture yet and was rich without being too cloying.  You should try it!  It does require just a little extra mixing, but it's still finished in about 15 minutes (minus the chilling and freezing time, of course).

Please click through for the recipe; here are my adaptations:

1/2 can (about 7 ounces) dulce de leche, available in the Mexican section of large grocery stores
Mix this in the mixer with the cream cheese, stopping and scraping every few seconds to ensure it is completely mixed (it took me 3 scrapings to be perfect)
Reduce the sugar by half.
Increase salt by a few pinches.
I used 1 tbsp vanilla bean extract (the good stuff, please) instead of vanilla pods; however, if you go overboard on the amount, this can theoretically cause the ice cream to have a slightly more loose texture, because of the alcohol content in the vanilla.

Proceed as normal, beating the hot cream slowly into the cheese/leche mixture to be sure everything is nicely incorporated; scrape down as needed.

Get Ready to Make Some Great Ice Cream. At Home

Absolutely delicious homemade espresso ice cream

 
Readers!!   I have been dying to tell you about this for months, and finally.  Finally, the time has come.  You are going to love me and Jeni from Jeni's Ice Cream forever.  Well, even more than you do now.

A few months ago, Jeni from Jeni's asked me if I would be interested in testing out some recipes for her.  Did I have an ice cream machine?  Would I mind buying gallons of heavy cream and milk and seeing if I could duplicate her success in my home kitchen?

Um, YES!!

Years ago, I had the worst roommate ever.  The only good thing that came from this roommate was a leftover Krups Ice Cream machine (which has been toted from house to house - and never used - ever since) and a washer and dryer (which have been toted from house to house and used extensively, ever since).  I dusted off the ice cream maker, put the freezer bowl in the deep freeze, and bought some milk and cream.  Ever few days, I'd get an email - try some honey, reduce the sugar, add a little corn syrup, boil the milk - until the recipe was perfected.  I made batch after batch, using my Husband and coworkers as guinea pigs, and then letting everyone down by telling them the recipe was top secret!  Ha ha ha!  Classified ice cream recipe!

The background is this: Food & Wine was doing a profile on Jeni, and wanted her to include some great recipes.  As Jeni explained it to me, she really thought that most people who wrote ice cream recipes didn't take into account the fact that most home cooks are dealing with rather subpar equipment.  They don't have the great machines or technology to create a homemade ice cream with a great mouthfeel.  Furthermore, Jeni thought the taste of the cooked eggs in custard-based ice cream interfered with the pure flavor of the cream.  This ice cream is amazing.  It is hands down the best homemade ice cream I have ever had.  The mouthfeel is amazing - it isn't gritty, lumpy, or full of ice crystals.  It is smooth, creamy, and rich.

The first batch I made was plain cream flavored.  I ventured out to vanilla, Ovaltine, coffee, green tea, cherry vanilla, and chai, just to name a few.  For awhile, there wasn't a time when there wasn't ice cream either being made, frozen, or ready to be frozen.  I think all of this recipe testing is responsible for those last 4 winter pounds I gained, but hey, there's loads of calcium, so it made me strong, too.

When the testing obsession began to wind down a little, Husband would sometimes look at me forlornly and ask if there wasn't any ice cream in the freeazer?  His favorite was espresso, my favorite was triple Ovaltine, and a few coworkers were particularly fond of the cherry vanilla.  The green tea was also good, but a little strange for most people.  Anyone fond of an intense matcha flavor would probably find it pleasantly bitter.

I love the ice cream straight from the ice cream freezer, when it has a texture almost like soft serve.  In theory, you can start the freezer right before dinner and have it ready for dessert, or you can make it in advance and have it ready for scooping.

As with most cream-based desserts, I found the texture, consistency, and flavor to be improved if the batter was left in the fridge overnight, but this isn't necessary.  Just better.  Of course, I imagine you'll be chomping at the bit to get started soon.  I found myself fervently wishing I had two freezer bowls so that I could make as many batches at once as possible.  And, thanks to a tip on the RW Forums, I snagged a reconditioned Cuisinart freezer for $20 (alas, they are sold out now, but here's the same ice cream maker, only new).

I'm not going to reprint the recipe, because you should show your support for Jeni by picking up June's Food & Wine, or at least click through here for the recipes.  There are also recipes for yogurt and sorbet, which I will be trying very soon.

Here are my variations:
Espresso - Add 1/2 cup instant espresso powder to the milk/cream combination
Triple Ovaltine - reduce sugar by half.  Add 1 cup chocolate Ovaltine, plus 1/2 cup each unflavored Ovaltine and 1/2 cup European Ovaltine (available in Asian grocery stores).  You can also use all chocolate Ovaltine.
Cherry Vanilla - Mix the recipe as directed.  Pour the mixture into the freezer and add 4 ounces chilled tart cherry jelly (no fruit).  I made my own, and it had a loose texture.  If you purchase a firm jelly, thin it slightly with a touch of hot water, and then chill.
Matcha (green tea) - whisk on heaping tbsp green tea powder into the milk when it is boiling.  Proceed as usual

So, get out there and make some ice cream - I promise, you will be glad you did.  Next up, I'm making yogurt.  I keep you posted, of course!

The Cake so Nice We Made it Twice

Well, Husband made it twice anyway.  Since a few of you have emailed or told me in person you'd be making the fruitcake yourself, I thought I would make these updates.

Every once in awhile, Husband takes my advice - I thought the cake would be improved with a little brown sugar, so he replaced onE cup of the sugar with brown sugar, which had delicious results - specifically, it leads to a more complex flavor and contributes extra moisture.  Furthermore, I wanted to add that the fruit is measured after being soaked and drained.  I had assumed one would measure it before, so I thought perhaps you would, too. 

In Which Husband Bakes? A Fruitcake?! And It's Delicious?!

A few weeks ago, when Husband went to wine tasting boot camp, he came home raving about the fruitcake the Master Sommelier's wife had made.  I was skeptical.  Raving about a fruitcake?  But both of us find fruitcake to be pretty horrifying, so I took his word for it.  He begged, pleaded, and fretted, and finally she sent the recipe.

Husband doesn't do a lot of baking, but the cake turned out beautifully, nonetheless (as you can see).  He did learn a few baker's secrets along the way, such as: it is much better to crack your eggs into a bowl and then add them one at a time, versus accidentally dropping the whole egg, shell and all, into the mixer with the paddle running (sorry babe, but I so rarely get to poke fun at you).

I can't say for sure, because the cake was only just baked last night, but I imagine it gets better after a day or so.  There is a lot of moisture in the cake, and it takes a long time to bake, just to let you know before you start in on the project late at night.

Vanessa's Totally Delicious, will Make You A Convert, Fruitcake - makes a Bundt Pan - about 12-15 servings

5 cups different dried fruits chopped (we used candied kumquats, cherries, cranberries, figs, and pineapple)
2 tbsp finely chopped crystallized ginger
Enough brandy (we used red wine) to cover the fruit
1 ½ c butter at room temp.
2 ½ c sugar
8 eggs at room temp.
1 tbsp pure vanilla extract
½ tsp salt
3 cups cake flour, sifted before measuring
2 cups chopped, toasted nuts (we used walnuts)

Combine the fruits (chopped if large, such as the figs) and ginger and cover with the alcohol of your choice.  Place in the fridge overnight or until the fruits are plumped.  When you are ready to make the cake, drain them and squeeze out extra moisture with paper towels.  Reserve the liquid.

Preheat oven to 325.  Brush a (10 cup) Bundt pan with melted butter, the coat with flour.  Tap the pan to remove excess flour. 

In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter on medium speed for about 7 minutes, until fluffy.  Add the sugar and continue creaming until fluffy again, about 4 minutes.  add the eggs one at a time, beating after each.  Add the vanilla and salt.  Reduce the speed to low and add the flour (don't overmix!).  Using a wooden spoon, fold in the fruit and nuts until fully incorporated. Spoon the batter into the pan, making sure the top is even.  Bake about 1 hour and 50 minutes (it took over 2 hours for Husband) or until a toothpick comes out clean.  Transfer to a rack and brush about 2 tbsp. brandy (we didn't have brandy, so we used a late harvest pinot gris; any alcohol would be good) over the cake.  Cool in the pan for 5 minutes.  Invert the cake onto the rack and carefully lift off the pan. Brush the entire cake with brandy or whatever again and cool completely,  when the cake is cooled, wrap it in plastic and foil and refrigerate.  You can continue to brush it with booze every day until consumed. 

This is really tasty with coffee for breakfast, a fact to which I can personally attest.  Husband was baking into the wee hours of the morning.

Recipe courtesy of Vanessa C.  Thanks!

Gluten Free Lemon Tart

Dear Trader Joe's:

I know how you are fond of introducing and then discontinuing really great products (puff pastry wrapped brie with no fruit, nuts or other nonsense, curry in phyllo are just 2 which come to mind), but I am warning you: if you discontinue the gluten-free gingersnaps, I'm going to start carrying out some of those threats I've mentioned when you constantly run out of my favorite product, which alas, has to go unmentioned because it is already popular enough. 

Cheers!

I've mentioned before that my father has Celiac (double click for more info) disease, which is an intolerance to wheat gluten.  A lot of people have scoffed at this notion - especially restaurant workers who have to deal with guests who can't have gluten - but it is actually a serious condition, mainly because it inhibits one's ability to absorb vitamins and minerals.  At any rate, whenever I have my parents over for dinner, I try to think up new things to make for dad, especially for dessert.  Now, I make a pretty mean flourless chocolate cake, but when I spied the gluten-free gingersnaps at Trader Joe's last week, I had a stroke of brilliance.

Once upon a time, I was a baker at a (then) Top 10 restaurant in Columbus.  I have made this lemon gingersnap tart more times than I can begin to count.  I made so many of these tarts that I actually kind of started to hate them a little bit.  But our guests loved them, so I had to keep making them.  Fortunately, years have passed, and I can face them again.  This tart is so incredibly easy that I always feel a little guilty about accepting complements on it.  But not too guilty.  You don't have to use gluten free gingersnaps, of course, but for anyone who can't have gluten, this tart tastes just as tasty as its wheaty counterpart, so it will make them very happy (it made Dad very happy, and so did the leftover gingersnaps).

Gluten Free Lemon Gingersnap Tart - serves 8
recipe adapted from David Tetzloff

For the Crust
1 8 ounce package Trader Joe's gluten free gingersnaps
1/4 cup sugar
pinch of salt
1/3 - 1/2 cup melted butter

Preheat oven to 350.  Combine the sugar, salt and gingersnaps in the bowl of a food processor and blitz to crumbs.  Pour the crumbs into a bowl and gradually add the butter until you have the consistency of wet sand.  Lightly spray a 9 inch tart pan  (with removable bottom) with cooking spray, place the pan on a half sheet pan and press the crumb mixture into the pan.  I like to use a wide, flat glass to ensure even crumb distribution.  Place the sheet tray in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, rotating after 10 minutes.  Cook until the crust looks dry and has a smooth surface.  Allow to cool, place it in a fridge if you're in a hurry.

For the Tart Filling
1 14 ounce can sweetened condensed milk (fat free even works)
3/4 cup lemon juice, or to taste
zest and juice of one lemon, in addition (optional)
7 large egg yolks

Combine the lemon juices and zest in a blender and blend to combine, then strain through a fine mesh strainer.  This step is optional, but I think it helps boost the tartness.  Combine the sweetened condensed milk with the lemon juice, tasting to be sure its tart enough, adding a little more lemon juice if necessary.  Add the egg yolks and whisk to combine thoroughly.  The consistency should be a little bit jiggle like pudding.  Pour the filling into the cooled shell and bake for 15-20 minutes, rotating after 10.  The tart will be set but still a little jiggly - it should jiggle as one versus having just a jiggly center.  Cool to room temperature and then place in fridge for at least 4 hours before serving.  I like to serve it with a little whipped cream to balance the lemony tartness.

Peaches with Beaujolais

Husband came across this simple recipe while researching traditional Burgundian dishes.  I made it for my cooking demo this past week at the North Market Farmer's Festival, and it seemed to be a hit.  I think, as with the baslsamic vinegar-marinated watermelon, people found the combination surprising and tasty, even if it sounds strange.  It couldn't be simpler, and it really showcases the sweet and simple beauty of the peach harvest.  Not to mention, peaches are quite good for you, and this recipe uses just a pinch of sugar per person, so it's completely guilt free.

Beaujolais is a light red wine which is made from the Gamay grape.  For my cooking demo, I used Louis Jadot Beaujolais Village ($12, Grapes of Mirth).  Typically grown primarily in Burgundy, Gamay is grown in very small quantities in California.  For this batch of peaches, I used Edmunds St. John Bone Jolly, a great California Gamay made by a great person, Steve Edmunds, a philosophical musician whose winery is (appropriately) in Berkeley.  Once upon a time, I had the chance to see him play his guitar and sing.  It was super cool.  I also had a bottle of his syrah when I dined at the French Laundry.  (Edmunds is also an occasional blogger; click here to read about his visit - a few years ago - to central Ohio and the Winds, among other places).

Peaches with Beaujolais - serves 4-6 guests

6 peaches, quartered and then each quarter cut in half, peeled if desired
1/4 cup turbinado sugar, or to taste
1 cup Beaujolais

Place the peaches in a large bowl.  Place the sugar in a jar and add about half of the wine.  Shake vigorously until the sugar dissolves.  Pour the mixture over the peaches and add the remaining wine.  Stir to coat, and allow the peaches to stand for just a few minutes - 5-10 - and serve in small bowls.  I'm sure if Jacques Pepin were preparing this - he is from the heart of Beaujolais country, after all - he would tell you to serve the peaches with a cookie, so there you have it - serve it with a cookie.

Strawberry Granita

Here's something to do with all those delicious strawberries which can be found right now.  Especially those at the bottom of the basket, which aren't quite perfect enough for eating out of hand.  This recipe couldn't be easer, and nothing is more refreshing on a hot June day.

Strawberry Granita - serves 2-4

3 quarts strawberries, lightly rinsed and hulled
sugar
Tiny pink of salt
6-8 large basil leaves, bruised with the back of a knife

Place the strawberries in a large bowl and sprinkle a little sugar over - about 1/2 of a cup - just enough to lightly coat all of the berries.  Allow to sit for about an hour or so at room temperature.  Cover the bowl with a plate if you have an ant or fruit fly problem.  Drain off any juice - you should have about a cup of juice.  If you don't, add enough water to make one cup of liquid.  Place the liquid in a saucepan and add 1/2 cup of sugar and the pinch of salt.  Bring to a boil so that the sugar dissolves, then turn off the heat, put the basil into the liquid and cover.  Allow to steep for 5 minutes, then remove and discard the basil.  Pour the liquid over the strawberries and mash them with a potato masher, the blend with a stick blender (or put them in a regular blender).  Pour through a fine mesh strainer to get the seeds out.  Pour the strained liquid into a shallow baking dish and place in the freezer.  After about half an hour, stir the nearly frozen liquid.  When the liquid is frozen, remove the dish and allow the granita to "ripen" for about 4-5 minutes, then scrape the entire surface with a fork, removing airy shreds of the frozen ice.  Serve with cookies or as is for dessert or snack on a hot day.  Husband ate three servings after dinner last night.

Limoncello Cupcakes

I haven't baked anything for Coworkers in awhile, and cupcakes seemed like just the thing.  If you don't have the patience for buttercream, I suppose you can make an easier version with butter and confectioner's sugar, adding the lemon flavor towards the end.  Limoncello is an Italian lemon liqueur; a digestif (to be quaffed after the meal), it is rather sweet and should be served chilled; it is available at any liquor store.  If you don't have limoncello, you can replace the liquid with all lemon juice.

I used a modified version of Nigella's fairy cake recipe from How to Be a Domestic Goddess, which makes a pretty fine cupcake.  I recommend removing them from the oven before the tops begin to brown, however; take them out when a toothpick comes out clean for a softer cake.

Cupcakes - makes 12:

1 stick butter at room temperature
scant 1/2 cup sugar
pinch salt
1/2 tsp vanilla
1 tsp lemon juice
1 tbsp Limoncello
2 eggs
zest of 1/2 lemon
3/4 cup self-raising flour
1-2 tbsp milk

Preheat oven to 400 and line a 12 cup muffin tin with liners.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream together the butter and sugar.  Add the vanilla, lemon juice, and limoncello.  Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl between additions, and blend until light and fluffy.  Add the lemon zest to the flour, tossing a little with a fork to ensure even distribution, and then gradually add the flour to the bowl, mixing on low speed.  Mix until just combined, and then add a tbsp of milk, then a little more until the mixture is a soft batter, similar to (fluffy) pancake batter.  Distribute evenly amongst cups and bake until a toothpick comes out clean.  Place tin on a wire rack to cook slightly and then remove the cupcakes to the rack to cool completely before frosting.

Lemon Buttercream Frosting - will frost more than 12 cupcakes

3/4 cup sugar
2 tbsp water
1 tsp honey (optional)
3 egg yolks
1/2 pound butter, cut into 1/2" cubes and softened
zest from 1/2 lemon
a few drops vanilla extract
1/2 tsp lemon juice
1 tbsp limoncello

Place the sugar, honey and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil (honey isn't necessary, but it's a natural emulsifier, so I like to add it whenever making frosting as an added guarantee of stability).  Lower heat slightly and boil until the mixture reaches 240 (I just allow it to boil until the eggs are ready, without taking temp), being careful not to let it burn - this takes about 3-5 minutes.
In the meantime, place the eggs yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer and mix on high (with the whip attachment) until the eggs are light and fluffy.  Lower the speed to medium-low and CAREFULLY, add the sugar mixture, pouring it between the whip and the sides of the bowl, as it will harden on the metal.  Turn the heat up to high and whip, whip, whip, until the mixture has reached warm room temperature - you can test this by placing your hands around the bottom of the bowl.  When it is no longer hot, proceed with the butter addition.  This can take up to 12 minutes, so you might want to do something else in the meantime, like the dishes.
Add the butter, piece by piece, allowing each bit to completely incorporate before adding more, about 15-20 seconds.  You will probably notice a change in consistency about halfway through, when it will start to resemble frosting.  When you have about 2 tbsp of butter left to incorporate, add the zest, juice, and limoncello, then proceed adding the butter.  Your mixture should look light and fluffy.  If it's a little soft, simply place it in the fridge for 5 minutes before frosting. 
Frost the cupcakes and refrigerate until 1/2 hour before serving, bring to room temp and serve!

Thanksgiving Recipes I've Known & Loved

Well, it's about that time of year again.  I realize I posted this same think last year, but, as Thanksgiving comes every year, it's that time again.  Here are a few of my tried and true recipes (they are not, of course, all original to me, I just mean I've made them all a hundred times and they never fail me):

Party Potatoes
Sweet Potato Casserole (don't let the term casserole scare you - I promise, even lifelong sweet potatoe haters will love this)
Lisa's Perfect Sprouts
Pumpkin Cheesecake
Bon Appetit's Creamed Corn Gratin
Alton Brown's Turkey
Alton Brown's Cranberry Sauce
Lisa's Green Beans with Bacon

Happy Eating!

80 Proof Vanilla Ice Cream

Do you even hear someone talking about one of their favorite things and it sounds so bizarre you have to try it?  So it was for me last week, as I was attending a Glenmorangie scotch tasting, and the owner of Wings restaurant in Bexley (2801 E. Main) began speaking of his love for scotch over ice cream (from what I hear, he probably loves scotch over anything - including more scotch; I'm not suggesting he's a lush, mind you: the restaurant - a Chinese restaurant, by the way - boasts one of the most definitive single malt scotch collections in the city).  Scotch over ice cream with coffee grounds.  Surely it would be terrible.

The next day, whilst standing in the walk-in freezer at work, and, er, testing the quality of the Jeni's ice cream we'd be serving that night, it hit me along with a mouthful of Maker's Mark Buttered Pecan - maybe he was on to something.

And so it came to be that I made this strange little sundae - vanilla ice cream, Glenmorangie 10 year scotch, and espresso powder (I just can't see eating coffee grounds, I'm sorry).  It was good - in truth, I underestimated the power of the espresso powder and just put it on until it looked pretty; it was a little too bitter.  I also think cold has a tendency to dull the flavors and leave the alcohol behind, but that's a risk most people take when drinking scotch on the rocks (try it neat, with just a dribble of water and you'll see what I mean). Next time, I think I'll put some caramel sauce on, which I think would match just fine with the rich caramel notes in the scotch.  Do I recommend you try it?  Absolutely - I always recommend a nice scotch for dessert!  If you can pony up the $60 for the port wood finish, I'd recommend it even more highly. 

Fun fact:  did you know?  Glenmorangie owns a forest in the Ozark mountains; they make barrels there and send them to Jack Daniels, where they age American whiskey.  The barrels are then shipped over to Scotland, where they finish out their lives aging all Glenmorangie products - the port, Madeira, sherry, and burgundy finishes start in the Jack Daniels barrels and then finish aging in the barrels for which they are named.  Speaking of burgundy finish, it should be available in Ohio as of today.  Cheers!

Oh, and by the way, let's just clear this up right now:  it's glen-MOHR-en-gee.  Soft g, as in gee whiz.  Now, business men I wait on, stop trying to make me say glen-mor-ANG-ee.  I've been right this whole time, so there!

Husband Presents::Grilled Bananas

Husband made these delicious bananas the other night and I thought I would pass the recipe along, being as it is grill season and everything. 

Grilled Spiced Bananas - serves 4

4 ripe bananas, preferably still in a bunch

1/4 cup honey - Husband prefers the super-dark, almost molasses-y chestnut honey he brought me from Italy, but any honey will do

2 tbsp brown sugar

good dash - okay, 1/4 tsp or to taste - good Vietnamese cinnamon

pinch salt

1/2 tsp lemon juice

Husband found it was easiest to leave the bananas in a bunch, in a row, so that they fit neatly on the grill.  Cut a slice lengthwise down each banana, being careful to not cut through to the other side; set aside.

In a small saucepan, combine the remaining ingredients (I thought cumin would make a nice addition, but was vetoed) over low heat until just combined (or put in microwave for a few seconds) and drizzle evenly over each banana.  Place the bananas over low coals - this is good to do after you have finished your main grilling, leaving the bananas to cook while you are eating - for about 15- 20 minutes, or until the banana is very soft inside.  The peels will turn black almost immediately.  Serve hot with vanilla ice cream and a few fresh berries.

Lemon Yogurt Cake

Alas, this cake was consumed before any photographic evidence could be obtained.  I posted this under dessert and breakfast recipes because, although technically a cake, I think of it more like a nice brunch or tea item.  This cake is best baked 24 hours in advance so that it has a chance to soak up all the lovely syrup. 

Lemon Yogurt Cake - serves 10ish *this cake was inspired by Nigella Lawson's "Baby Bundts" from the How to be a Domestic Goddess book.

for the cake:

7 ounces plain yogurt - I like to use strained, Greek-style yogurt - if you use standard plain yogurt, reduce the amount of yogurt to 6 ounces

1 tbsp heavy cream

1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

12 tbsp butter, melted

4 eggs

zest of 1 lemon

1 3/4 cup AP flour

1/4 cup high gluten (bread) flour - optional, but it provides a nice fat crumb.  You can use 2 cups AP flour and leave this out if you like

1 tsp baking soda

scant 1 cup sugar

pinch salt

for the syrup:

1/2 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup lemon flavored vodka (optional, replace with lemon juice if desired), but I think the vodka gives it a nice, full mouth feel.  The alcoholic heat will diminish after the cake has "ripened," leaving only its rich flavor behind

1/2 cup confectioner's sugar

Combine all three ingredients in a small saucepan and heat for a few minutes to melt the sugar, or microwave for 30 seconds.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.  Spray a Bundt cake pan with baking spray (with flour), or grease the pan thoroughly with butter, then dust with flour, shaking the excess flour out before filling.  Set aside.

Combine the yogurt, cream, lemon juice, butter, eggs and zest in a small bowl.  In a separate bowl, whisk together the flours, soda and salt and add the the wet ingredients to the dry.  Stir to combine.  Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean and the cake top is springy. The cake should not be brown, or only very slightly. 

Cool the cake slightly, 10 minutes or so, and then invert it onto a wire rack.  Prick the surface all over with a toothpick and, using a pastry brush, coat the entire surface with the syrup.  Repeat three times, allow the cake to sit for 10 minutes, and then turn the cake by placing a plate on top of it and turning the plate, cake and wire rack over, and then lifting the rack off. Prick the top of the cake all over with a toothpick and repeat the syrup-basting process.  Allow the cake to sit for a few hours, covered in aluminum foil, and then baste it again.  I like to allow the cake to sit overnight, and then, about an hour before serving, I baste both sides again, repeating until the syrup is gone.

Serve cake plain, or with a little whipped cream and fresh berries.

Crème Brulée

If the average person knew how incredibly easy it is to make crème brulée at home, she would stop ordering it in every restaurant and let the pastry chefs get back to building masterpieces no one else has time for.  Something about the perfectly creamy, cold richness seems to seduce even the most callous dessert-hater.  Except Husband, who won't eat it.  Crème brulée literally takes 10 minutes to prepare, less than an hour in the oven, and then a night in the fridge.  And, you can give the power tool-loving person in your house something to do at dinner parties by breaking out the blow torch and being the brulée-er before dessert.  Forget those silly little "kitchen torches" for sale at kitchen stores; they might look cute in a gift basket, but they are little more than a butane-guzzling glorified cigar lighter.  You would never see one of those in a restaurant, no matter what the chef says in his cookbook.  For less than $15, go to your local hardware store and buy yourself a blowtorch.  Trust me.

I don't really go for flavored crème brulées - I tend to stick to the pure vanilla flavor, but I have been known to throw a few chai tea bags in with the milk.  If you thinking about making chocolate crème brulée, just stop and tell yourself "no."  We'll discuss chocolate pots de crème very soon, I promise.

Crème Brulée - Makes about 6 brulées in standard Brulée Dishes

2 1/2 cups heavy cream

1 cup half and half

1 vanilla bean

tiny (less than 1/8 tsp) pinch of salt

3/4 cup sugar (depending on your taste; you can cut it down to 1/2 cup if you'd like)

7 egg yolks (if you double this recipe, replace one egg yolk with one whole egg for stability)

1 tsp vanilla

3 tbsp white sugar

1 tbsp light brown sugar

Place the cream and half and half in a small sauce pan and cook over medium-low heat until a skin has formed on the top, or until you can barely touch it (this depends on the tenderness of your fingertips, of course), or about 180 degrees.  In the meantime, place the sugar in a bowl and add the pinch of salt.  Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the seeds from the pod with a small knife.  Place the seeds in the sugar and the pod in the cream mixture.  Blend the seeds into the sugar with your fingertips - you can add the split pod to the cream without mixing the seeds with the sugar, but I find they stay suspended in the brulee better this way.  Separate the eggs, placing the yolks into the sugar, and whisk.  When the cream is hot, very slowly whisk the cream into the egg/sugar mixture and stir thoroughly, but don't whisk air into the mixture.  Strain the mixture into a pitcher through a fine-mesh sieve and add the vanilla.  Allow to steep for 10 minutes or overnight (I know Thomas Keller would say overnight, but it's optional.  Again, it's another way to be sure more vanilla seeds are suspended in the mixture, but the brulee will take 20-30 minutes more to cook).

Line a rimmed baking sheet* with paper towels and place the brulée dishes on top.  Fill each dish to the top with the mixture - the custard will shrink as it bakes.  Carefully transfer the pan to the middle rack of the oven, and fill the sheet pan 1/2 full with hot water (hot tap water is fine, no need to boil).  Cook for 40 minutes, turning carefully after 30.  The custards are done with the centers are just slightly shaky, but do not bulge when tilted.  Remove carefully and cool on a rack before chilling.  Refrigerate at least 6 hours before serving. 

Combine the white and brown sugars.  Spoon a teaspoon or so onto each chilled brulée, shaking gently to distribute the sugar.  Torch with the tip of the blow torch flame, gently turning and tilting the dish to be sure all of the sugar is caramelized.  This takes a little practice and fearlessness, and I suggest trying it on some pieces of fruit or something before you try your first brulee.  Too much torching, and it will curdle the brulée underneath.

*I used custard cups for the brulée in the picture shown; if you choose to use these or ramekins instead of the traditional shallow brulée dish, you will need to use a deeper pan.

Thanksgiving Recipe #1 - Pumpkin Cheesecake

I am sure that many of you, at least those in the States, are getting ready for various Thanksgiving celebrations (no?  too early?), so I am offering some of my favorite Thanksgiving recipes.  This is a new one that I tried out, a really nice and subtle pumpkin cheesecake.  Some of my tasters found the pumpkin flavor a little too subtle, truth be told, but I reminded them that this is a cheesecake, and not pumpkin pie.  I adapted this recipe from Emeril, and although it can easily be found here, I will include it in the extended post, as payback for the years I've had to suffer whilst accidentally coming across his many programs on the Food Network

The nice thing is this cake must be made in advance - up to 4 days in advance - so you won't have anything to worry about while you're getting everything else ready.  This recipe comes together easily in a large food processor; I haven't tried it in a mixer with a whisk attachment, but I'm sure it would work as long as your cream cheese was very soft.

The Best Apple You've Never Eaten. Unless You're One of My Fruit Dork Friends

Meet the Honeycrisp apple.  Developed by the horticulture department at the University of Minnesota in the early 90's, the Honeycrisp apple is a hybrid of the Macoun and Honeygold apples, and it is delicious.  While there are some orchards growing the Honeycrisp in Washington state, they are primarily grown in the Midwest at this time; I predict they will take over at least the Gala and Fuji in popularity as they become more widely available.  The apple is incredibly crisp, featuring a honeyed sweetness but with still a nice little tang of tartness.  It is great for eating and baking.  Last year I couldn't buy enough of these.  I don't know how Ohio's Honeycrisp crop has been this year, because as my critics (by which I of course mean friends) will happily point out, I tout buying locally and then buy the first little Honeycrisp that comes along, which happened to be from New York.  I promise to buy some local ones soon.

Anyway, here is a quick and easy recipe for dessert, Baked Honeycrisp Apples with Streusel Topping - Serves 4.

4 Honeycrisp apples, tops sliced off and cores and a little flesh removed with melon baller

2 tsp mild honey

1 cup AP flour

3/4 cup uncooked oatmeal (rolled oats, not Irish)

1 cup dark brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup melted butter

1 tsp cinnamon

pinch nutmeg

pinch ground cardamom

pinch salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and spray a shallow baking dish with cooking spray. Place 1/2 tsp honey in the bottom of each apple.  Combine the flour, oatmeal, brown sugar, melted butter, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and salt together and stir until large crumbs form.  Stuff each apple with steusel mixture, mounding the tops.  Bake for 45 minutes or until the apples are slightly soft.  Serve hot with good vanilla ice cream.  (of course, Granny Smiths can be substituted, but they might take a little longer to bake)

Super-Easy Butter Cookies

This recipe comes from Donna Hays' Entertaining Cookbook, which I think I've mentioned before is great.  These cookies are always a hit and are so simple to make that you should go make them, now.  They are a nice and simple accompaniment to a bowl of ice cream or simply fresh fruit.  They are actually the cookie part of her "Caramel Melting Moments," and although I've never been very successful using her caramel recipe as a filling, like she does, it is still a good recipe and I have served it on the side as a dipping agent.  I like to double the recipe, and using a 100 count ice cream scoop, I get about 40-50 cookies per batch.

Super Easy Butter Cookies

1 stick butter

2/3 cup brown sugar

2 cups AP flour

Preheat oven to 315.  In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and sugar and cream until light and fluffy.  Add the butter and blend until just combined.  Scoop onto a parchment-lined cookie sheet and bake for about 15 minutes, rotating halfway through to insure even browning.  Cook on wire rack.  Now how easy was that?!

Rhubarb Cobbler

The biscuit topping for this cobbler is nice and light, making it perfect for more delicate fruits, such as peaches; I'll let you know when we get to peach season.  The recipe is adapted from Williams-Sonoma Essentials of Baking.  The recipe calls for a cinnamon-sugar topping, which I changed to a turbinado sugar topping, as there is already cinnamon in the cobbler, and the turbinado gives an interesting little crunch.  I drizzled the cobbler with a little thickened cream.

Rhubarb Cobbler

Filling:

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

2 Tbsp cornstarch

4 cups (about 6-8 stalks, depending on size) rhubarb, chopped

Bring the first 3 ingredients to a boil over medium heat, stirring until thick and clear, and add the rhubarb.  Cook, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes.  Pour into a 9" pie dish, or 8 individual baking dishes.

Topping:

2/3 cup buttermilk

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups AP flour

1/3 cup sugar

1/2 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp cinnamon

6 TBSP cold butter, cut into small pieces.

Mix the buttermilk and vanilla and set aside.  In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, sift together all dry ingredients, including the sugar.  Add the butter pieces and mix on low speed until small crumbs form (about a minute or so).  Add the buttermilk slowly until a soft dough forms and all crumbs are evenly moistened.

Using an ice cream scoop, drop the dough onto the surface of the fruit.  It will spread as it bakes.  Sprinkle with turbinado sugar and bake for 30-35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the biscuit dough comes out clean.  Cook on a rack for at least 15 minutes.  Serve hot with my favorite - Creme Fraiche ice cream from Jeni's!

Fig Tart with Honey Vanilla Cream

I wish I had taken a picture of this tart because it was so pretty, but alas.  Here is the the fig and goat cheese tart I promised.  In the end, I only used a little goat cheese so as not to overpower anything; I just wanted to add a little tang.  I imagine that a little plain, Greek-style yogurt could have accomplished the same thing, and I might have to try that sometime.  The recipe may look long but it's really easy - only 10 minutes of actual baking.  This tart serves 8-10 and keeps very well in the fridge for 3 days, so it's great to make ahead of time.

Fig Tart with Honey Vanilla Cream

for the crust:

200 grams (1/2 packet) digestive biscuits, Carr's Tea biscuits, or Graham crackers

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup butter, melted and cooled slightly

Crush the biscuits in the food processor or with a rolling pin, and mix in a medium bowl with the sugar.  Add the butter until you have a nice crumbly consistency - you might not need all of the butter.  Press the crumbs into a 9" tart pan and bake at 350 for 15 minutes, then allow to cool completely before filling.

For the filling:

1 cup Mascarpone cheese

1/2 cup goat cheese

1 cup heavy cream

1 Tbsp Vanilla

1/4 cup honey, or to taste

In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, blend the mascarpone and goat cheese until creamy and lump-free.  Add the vanilla and honey and mix well.  Scrap the cheese into a bowl and set aside, and then fit the mixer with the whisk attachment and pour the heavy cream into the mixer bowl.  Whip until medium peaks form, turn the speed down and fold in the mascarpone/goat cheese mixture.  Taste for sweetness, remembering that you don't really want the filling to be too sweet, just nice and round with a good honey and vanilla flavor.  Spoon into the waiting shell, smoothing the top.

For the figs:

7 figs, 5 sliced in half lengthwise, and the other 2 sliced thinly into discs. 

2 Tbsp brown sugar, melted on the stove with a splash of water.

Place the figs on a sheet pan lined with parchment and drizzle with the brown sugar.  Roast in a 350 degree oven for 10 minutes and allow to cool completely before using.

Place the fig halves around the outside edge of the tart, spacing evenly until you have 10; this will be a guide for slicing the tart, each serving will have 1 fig half.  Arrange the discs in the middle of the tart and chill the whole thing before serving.  Place one slice on a plate and drizzle with honey, port syrup, and pralines.

To see the recipes for the garnishes I used, click on the extended post: