Restaurant Widow

Letting Go of the Fear of Tofu

top to bottom: fried bean curd, plain baked tofu, extra firm tofu, and savory baked tofu.

Poor tofu.  You've been so mishandled by well-meaning (I assume) people, you've made everyone fear you; particularly meat-eating Americans.  Asians, after all, blend you with everything, wisely using you to stretch out small amounts of meat.

Of course, we know you're good for us, and you contain lots of protein, but you're slimy.  And slippery.  And weird.

Except when you aren't.

I've had my own fearful relationship with tofu, for the same reason.  It just seemed as though it could never be drained or pressed enough to not turn into a jiggly, watery mess.  And then I started buying "fried bean curd," which is fried tofu, and it was better.  It held up to stir-frying.  Of course, it had slightly more fat, but still nothing compared to most meat (around 8 grams of fat per serving).  So I started buying all sorts of tofu, just to experiment.  Most of these types of tofu can replace meat in any quickly-cooked method, and you can use them uncooked - for instance, added to my spicy sesame noodles, or in the salad recipe I have below.

Of course, there are the silky types of tofu you know from the produce section, but these fried, dried and baked tofus are typically found at Asian groceries.  While fried tofu, sometimes called tofu cutlet, can be found at Japanese groceries such as Tensuke, baked and dried tofu are more easily discovered at Asian groceries which specialize in Chinese specialties.  Columbus Asian Market (CAM, corner of Bethel & Olentangy River Road in the Olentangy Plaza) has a huge variety of tofu, both in the produce section and in the refrigerated section back by the rice.

Fried Bean Curd (tofu) is just as it sounds.  It words very well in stir fries
Baked tofu has been baked and is dehydrated; the texture is smooth without being gritty, it is very firm, slices almost like a chicken breast, and can be used in soup, stir fries, and raw in noodles or salads.
Extra Firm tofu (vacuum packed in blocks, not in the puff pack from the produce aisle) has an almost crumbly texture, similar to a strained, hard curd cheese.  It can be sliced and used in stir fries, and will stand up well in soups because it can take in a lot of water.
Savory baked tofu is just like regular baked tofu, except it has been soaked in soy sauce, which makes it quite lovely when used raw in salads, as in the recipe below.
Dried tofu (not pictured) has an almost haloumi-like quality, and is also very good in stir fries, in miso soup, or raw in salads, as I used it in the recipe below. 

Tofu makes a very inexpensive protein source - 4 blocks (4 servings) of tofu cost about $2.  Of course, tofu by itself does not equal a complete protein; to create a complete protein, serve tofu with a scoop of rice, some nuts (as below), eggs or dairy products.

I copied this recipe after something I bought premade at CAM.  This salad is great because it can be served cold or at room temperature; that means it is great for packing in lunches.

Edamame & Tofu Salad with Almonds - serves 2-4

1 cup frozen edamame peas (green soy beans), out of shell
1 block each savory baked tofu and dried tofu (or 2 of one)
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
2 tsp garlic chili paste (sambal)
3 tbsp roasted & salted almonds or peanuts (I used Marcona almonds, because that's all we had in the house)

Place the edamame in a small pan and cover with water.  Bring to a boil over high heat, add a little sprinkle of salt, and boil for five minutes.  Strain, spray with cold water to chill the beans, and set aside.

Cut the tofu into 1/2" cubes and place in a bowl.

Combine the sauce mixture (olive oil through chili paste) in a bowl and pour about 1 tbsp over the tofu chunks.  Stir and allow them to marinate for about 5 minutes.  Add the peas, pour over the rest of the sauce, and add the almonds, reserving a few sprinkles for serving.  Place in a bowl and sprinkle remaining almonds over. 

An Actual Recipe! Cold Spicy Sesame Noodles

This is a favorite in the Widow Household, especially after work, because they are great cold from the fridge.  You can moderate the spice level to suit your palate, and it's one of those recipes that you can make once and then adjust as you'd like.  I like things decently spicy; here, the peanut butter and sesame paste balance the heat with sweetness.  I like to add cubes of baked tofu to the noodles; shredded, cooked chicken breast would be good, too, and would turn the noodles into a meal.  These are also good for packed lunches and picnics, because they can get to room temperature and still be tasty.

Cold Spicy Sesame Noodles - serves 4-6

1 (13 ounce) package of Japanese noodles, or spaghetti
2 tbsp sesame seeds
1/4 cup peanut butter*
2 tbsp soy sauce (I like to use "light colored" soy sauce, or lowish sodium)
1 tbsp Vietnamese chili paste (sambal - in the chili sauce section of the Asian grocery)
2 tsp sesame oil
2 tbsp Japanese sesame paste (or tahini, but I think the Japanese version, which is much thicker, is better and has a more refined flavor)
2 tsp ginger/garlic paste, or 1 minced garlic clove and 1/2" piece of ginger, peeled and minced
2 tsp rice wine vinegar (unseasoned/without sugar)
4 scallions, green parts, cut into thin rings (I forgot to buy them today, so they aren't in the picture; they do make the noodles prettier)

Cook the noodles according to package directions, being sure not to overcook them.  Drain and rinse very well, tossing with tongs under cold running water to be sure they are thoroughly cold (otherwise they will continue cooking and turn to mush).

In a small dry pan, toast the sesame seeds over medium heat, tossing the pan, until they are shiny and fragrant.  They burn very quickly, so be careful!  Remove from heat and set aside.

In a small pan, combine the peanut butter through the rice vinegar.  Heat over medium heat, stirring to melt the peanut butter.  When everything is incorporated, pour the hot mixture over the cold noodles, tossing the noodles with tongs to be sure the noodles are evenly coated.  Let the mixture sit at room temperature or place in the fridge for half an hour to allow the flavors to mingle.  When ready to serve, top the noodles with the scallions and sesame seeds.  YUM!

I find garlic and ginger paste to be a great short cut in the kitchen, especially when making Asian food.  It is available at Indian grocery stores, such as Patel Brothers in the Kenny Centre (corner of Kenny & Old Henderson on the NW side, near Tensuke Japanese Grocery store).

*if you are using natural, non-homogenized peanut butter, add a few tbsp of the oil from the peanut butter jar to be sure everything mixes together.

To help you with your shopping, left to right, front - ginger/garlic paste; Japanese sesame paste; fresh chili paste; back, light color soy sauce:

Yet Another Ridiculously Simple Recipe - Lima Beans

Sometimes, when I'm standing in the kitchen trying to decide if something is worth writing about, I wonder why I should even bother writing about something as simple as boiling and peeling fresh Lima beans, but then I remember what it was like to be a young cook.  I have never been the sort of person who wants outrageous recipes - if the ingredients are ones with which I'm familiar, then I don't really need a recipe, I can figure out what tastes good on my own.  What I really needed was a basic formula.  Say, potatoes cut into 1/2" pieces take about 12 minutes to steam until they can be mashed.  Green beans take about 7 minutes of steaming before they can be sauteed with bacon.  That sort of thing.

It is with this in mind that I offer you these ridiculously simple recipes, because I don't think you always want a recipe for Lima bean gratin with three varieties of pork trimmings and loads of butter and heavy cream.  I think sometimes, we just want an alternative to cooking frozen veggies (in truth, I really don't have anything against frozen veggies, I use them all the time in the winter).  But, when we are used to cooking with frozen vegetables, and the directions are right there on the package, I think sometimes we can be stumped by the fresh alternative.

Lima beans, as I've mentioned before, can be difficult to find in their fresh form, but this time of year, they are really beginning to come into season, and I think it's worth seeking them out.  For all the derision they take, they are really almost as good as fava beans, if a little more meaty and nutty.  I think of them as the fava bean's Autumnal cousin.  Whereas favas are green and delicate, Limas are rich and hearty.  They bridge the gap between a fresh beans such as a fava, and a starchier bean, like a kidney bean.  I prepare them in much the same way as favas, that is to say, remove from pod, boil, peel, and boil again. 

The flavor of the Lima bean is so delightfully creamy, they really don't need a lot of help in the gussying up department, although they are good with a nice stirring of butter and salt, but I prefer them - can you guess it?  Yes, with a little extra virgin olive oil.  This is completely irrational, but for some reason, I don't think of olive oil as having the fat or caloric content of butter.  It's silly because it has slightly more fat than butter (because butter contains a small percentage of water, whereas olive oil is pure fat); I suppose it has something to do with its green flavor, and the fact that it is good for one's heart.  I just feel better eating it than butter.  Well, until the winter time.  There's just nothing like butter on winter squash.  But I digress.

Now, Husband is always reminding me that Lima beans contain cyanide, and that they have to be cooked forever with the lid off.  I got to thinking about this the other day and decided to consult my good friend Harold McGee.  It turns out that while some tropical and wild varieties of Lima beans do contain cyanidic compounds, commercial varieties do not.  Of course, you still want to cook them thoroughly so that they can achieve that delicious creamy texture.

Basic Method for Fresh Lima Beans

It's a little more time-consuming than frozen, but I think it's worth the effort.  Remove the beans from the pods and rinse under cold water.  Place the beans in a small pot and cover with water.  Bring to a boil and boil them for about 5 minutes, or about 2 minutes after the skin has begun to look pale and puckery.  Drain and rinse under cold water until they are cool to the touch.  Remove the tough outer skins by poking a hole in the "belly button" with your fingernail or a knife.  The bean will pop right out - although the skins are a little tougher than fava bean skins, they pull away from the bean much easier than the favas, so this isn't nearly as time consuming.  I like to skin them right over the same pot, and then cover them with water again.  Bring to a boil again and cook for about 10-15 minutes, or until the beans have reached desired softness.  Drain and return to the pot again, putting the beans (with no water) back over high heat for just a few seconds, to dry them off.  Toss the pan a little whilst doing this.  Remove from heat and drizzle with good extra virgin olive oil, or coat with a pat of butter, then season to taste with salt and pepper.  For the dish pictured above, I paired the Limas with pan seared salmon which I topped off with a simple salad of shaved red bell pepper tossed with rice vinegar and salt.  Yes, it is similar to the Spring version of this dish, here, with favas.

You can read other simple recipes here, here, here, and here.  For succotash, click here.

Succotash

 
It's that time of year.  Sweet corn and lima beans are in season at the same time.  Yeah, baby, it's succotash time.  Oh, you hate lima beans?  I don't think you do.  I think you hate canned lima beans.  Even frozen limas are miles better than canned.  But fresh lima beans?  Nothing beats fresh limas.  Soft, creamy, buttery - they're a delight.  And almost impossible to find.  Fortunately I managed to snag one (only one?!) bag at the farm markets last week.  They can be found (in short supply, apparantly) at Toad Hill Organics at the North Market), and you might be able to find them at Whole Foods.

Growing up, my mother's family had a succotash soup dinner each summer.  Looking back, it was a little bizarre - sweet corn, potatoes (I think there wer potatoes) and lima beans were cooked in milk and served with saltines.  I have never seen or heard of something similar elsewhere.  As a child, I liked it and hated it at the same time; but for some reason, that's where I remember learning that milk and pepper went really, really well together.  I can still see that rather peaked brew, little black pepper flakes floating on top.  I would put the vegetables on top of a buttered saltine.  (oh how I loved buttered saltines!)  This is the same family, by the way, who ate coffee soup: crunched up saltines topped with coffee, sugar, and milk.  One day, we'll talk about the strange things my dad's side of the family ate - those crazy Amish folk.

At any rate, the minute my fingers touched the pack of limas, they told me they wanted to be made into succotash.  Simple, healthy, full of bright late summer flavors, not filled with cream or butter or even *gasp* bacon, just pure vegetable-y goodness.  And a tiny little bit of spice.

This is yet another of those incredibly simple summer dishes.  Everything is fresh, local and full of flavor.  You could certainly add bacon at the beginning, to good effect (and you might try some of the Wayward Seed's incredible jowl bacon, which you have to ask for at the market).  You could add potatoes (I made potatoes along with this and mixed the two together for dinner) if you like, or really anything you find at the market.  It just now occured to me that my Toby Run shitakes would have been a good addition.  Next time. I bought lots of peppers at the market this week; you of course, don't have to go out of your way to use three types of peppers.

Late Summer Farm Market Succotash - serves 2

Cooking Spray (I like olive oil spray)
2 small white onions
1 small leek, white and light green parts only, slivered and rinsed of any dirt
pinch of cayenne pepper
1/2 sweet red bell pepper, peeled and cut into small dice
1/2 long mildly hot red pepper, small dice
1/2 poblano pepper, peeled and cut into small dice
1/4 cup sweet corn broth (I just happened to be making a batch and it was still on the stove - you can substitute any vegetable or chicken stock)
1 cup lima beans - blanched for about 10 minutes, or until soft, if fresh.  I happened to have a chunk of rind from a piece of Oakvale aged Gouda I used up this week, so I tossed that into the water for a little flavor, but don't feel like you have to.
4 ears of sweet corn, blanched for 4 minutes and then kernals removed, or about 1 cup frozen corn
salt and pepper

Heat a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and spray with a little olive oil spray.  Add the onions and the leek and dust with cayenne pepper.  Cook until they begin to soften - about 5 minutes, then add the peppers and cook until they begin to soften - about 5 more minutes.  Add the stock and cook for a minute or so, until it has reduced a little, then add the sweet corn and limas.  Cook until the stock has cooked off and season with salt and pepper.  Serve immediately.

Local sources for this recipe:  I purchased the onions - cippolinis - from Wayward Seed farm, along with the poblano pepper.  The hot pepper and the sweet corn came from my CSA this week, and the limas were from Toad Hill. 

Recipes from the Clintonville Farmer's Market

First of all, THANK YOU! to everyone who came out to say hi at the Clintonville Farmer's Market.  It was so incredible to meet all of you and make some new friends as well.  This sounds like such a dorky cliché, but all of your kind words really made my day.  My week, actually.  I think my head is kind of big now, which can only mean I'm due for some humiliation in the coming days.  I'll try to keep my (giant) head low.

The day was lovely - the weather was perfect, with low humidity and a pleasant breeze.  I've been on a bit of a cooking hiatus lately, so it was almost nice to not have the opportunity to shop - I won't have to feel guilty if I don't do any cooking.  Well, I'll feel guilty for not writing anything, but that's an entirely differently kind of guilty.

At any rate, here are my recipes from yesterday's tasting.  Alas, no pictures.

Balsamic Macerated Watermelon

It was fun to see everyone's surprise at how delicious this "recipe" is.  I can't count how many people asked if there was sugar or salt or something else in the watermelon.  Nope - just about an ounce of balsamic - the good stuff, the real thing, 12 year balsamic vinegar from Carfagna's at $18 a bottle - poured over one watermelon, cut into chunks, and left to sit in the fridge for 10 - 15 minutes.  I know you're skeptical, but you should try it.  For a surprising salad, top the watermelon with salty crumbled feta, or grated ricotta salata (a pressed, salted sheep's milk ricotta from Italy, also available at Carfagna's).

Sweet Corn Salad - serves 4

8 ears sweet corn
1 red bell pepper, roasted, and cut into small dice
1 poblano pepper, roasted, and cut into small dice
1 cup grape or cherry tomatoes, quartered or halved
1/4 cup good extra virgin olive oil
handful fresh herbs (such as tarragon, oregano, and basil) or 1 tbsp dried Italian herb blend
pinch cayenne pepper
1 tsp salt
pinch freshly cracked black pepper

Have a large bowl of ice water ready, next to the stove.  Bring a large pot of water to a boil and blanch the ears of corn, 4 at a time if necessary, for 3 minutes.  Place the hot ears in the bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process, and allow them to sit in the water for about 5 minutes.  Cut the kernels from the cob - again, you've heard me say it before, but cutting the kernels should be very easy.  If you struggle, you probably have a dull knife (my favorite is a nice sharp sushi knife), or you are trying to cut the kernels too deep.  You only need to remove the top half of the kernels.  Place the kernels in a large bowl and add the peppers and tomatoes, toss lightly to combine.

In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, herbs, cayenne pepper, salt and pepper together and pour over the sweet corn.  Stir to combine completely and allow to sit at room temperature or in the fridge for about 1/2 hour to let the flavors meld, then give the salad another stir, taste and correct seasoning as needed.

Roasted Three Color Potatoes, and a Little Bit on the Topic of "Good" Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Updated Friday morning for this: although they aren't my favorite place to buy a corned beef sandwhich in Columbus, I would be remiss not to mention Katzingers when talking about tasting olive oil, since they have a very wide selection and always have some out to taste. 

It has only now just occurred to me that I might never be able to write a cookbook.  I might be able to steer hungry cooks - and shoppers - in the right direction, but then I would say something like: steam for 3 minutes, toss in good extra virgin olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.  Perfect!  Or, in this case, replace "serve" with "put in 450 degree oven 10-25 minutes, or until everything is browned and crispy.  Delicious!

So, when I was getting ready to write this post, upon realizing this fact, I thought I'd answer a question I received from a reader recently: What sort of olive oil do you use?  This is a loaded question, because I love olive oil, and I'm frequently torn between the cheap adequate stuff and the expensive, over-the-top delicious stuff.  One problem is that Husband, who I love with all my heart, will reach in the cupboard, grab whatever olive oil is closest, and use it for sauteing.  I know that Mario is always saying Italians would only ever cook in extra virgin olive oil, but when I've spent $25 for a half liter bottle of olive oil, I really want to save it for finishing or roasting, and not for cooking.  This is probably completely subjective, but I find that good extra virgin olive oil showcases its flavors when used in roasting (such as when roasting potatoes or, my favorite - olive oil soaked, sea-salt dusted, homemade croutons), but the flavors are lost when used to saute.  I might totally be wrong, but I've taken to hiding the expensive stuff and having cheap bottles within easy reach.

Click here to learn more about what extra virgin olive oil is, and what makes it special and good for you.  Of course, it's Wikipedia, so take it with a grain of sea salt.

You can also take my advice with a grain of sea salt, because I am no olive oil expert - I know it makes a few of your nervous when I say those sorts of things, but wouldn't you be more nervous if I led you astray?  I've learned all of these things by trial and error.  And lots of years in restaurant work.

Okay, so what kind of olive oil do I use?  First of all, please keep in mind that I have not tried every type of olive oil out there, and even I am overwhelmed by the varieties offered.  I am also a little irritated with Whole Foods for taking out their olive oil tasting bar, because I consider it quite risky to purchase a $20 bottle of olive oil without tasting it first, and it isn't as though they have someone there to help me out, like they do in the wine department.  I tend to stick with Italian olive oils, although I do frequently buy California and Spanish olive oils, and occasionally Greek.  As a general rule, and I don't mean to sound like a snob here, but I don't buy extra virgin olive oil in the grocery store. 

Heat and light destroy olive oil, so it's important to purchase it in very dark containers or in metal cans, or in something like this cool new Tetrapak I bought a few days ago at Weiland's (pictured below).  Store your olive oil away from the stove.  Of course, I am a total hypocrite here because we store it above the stove.  Fortunately we use olive oil very quickly in our household. 

Here's another caveat: I can usually buy really good olive oil at wholesale, from Chef.  So that means I spend about half (or less) what you would to purchase it in a store.  I'm going to give you some options for less expensive brands, though, so bear with me. 

My absolute favorite olive oil is Falconero (you have to scroll down, about 6 rows, left side).  I haven't found it for sale locally, but I am sure if I tried hard enough, I could convince someone at the North Market (cough-Curds & Whey-cough cough) to bring it in for me, as it is distributed locally.  You can buy it online for $26 through the link above.  My second favorite is probably Ceppo Antico, which is about $22 for 500 mg; as of last week, Ceppo was carried by Weiland's, along with other good olive oils.  I have to admit that when I have really good, expensive olive oil on hand, I have a tendency to hoard it (a bad habit I'm trying to rid myself of).  Of course, hoarding it does no good, as it doesn't last forever, or really even very long, so there's no point in hoarding.  You may as well drizzle it freely over everything that strikes your fancy, reminding yourself the whole time how happy you're making your heart.  You might eventually find, like we have, that olive oil will begin to replace butter as your fat of choice.

So what about decent alternatives?  Head to that old budget gourmet standby, Trader Joe's.  I have found 2 really great, budget-friendly extra virgin olive oils at Trader Joe's, the California estate olive oil (center) and the Italian "First Lady Reserve."  Both of these olive oils offer a nice fruity, peppery olivey flavor and cost a mere $6 per bottle.  (and here's the part where you might disagree - I remember reading on someone's chef food blog, can't remember whose, and it was a long time ago, that you can't expect to make a good mayo or salad dressing with "Trader Joe's Crap Olive Oil."  See?  That person might be right, or I might be, who knows.  That's why I began by saying I'm no expert) And, after the packaging sucked me in to the Spanish olive oil on the left, I think I've found a great all-purpose (Husband can use it for sauteing, and I can use it for roasting and finishing, in a pinch) olive oil, a steal at $12 for a full liter (left, purchased at Weiland's).  Although it's hard to see in the picture, the Spanish olive oil is tetrapacked in an octagonal container, so it pours just like it's coming from a bottle, but it is perfectly packaged to keep heat and light out.  Any of these olive oils make a nice "intro" to "good" extra virgin olive oil without breaking the bank. 

And now, another recipe!  This recipe is a great way to show off the variety of potatoes available at the farmer's markets.  Of course, I've never met a potato I didn't love, and would be happy with pretty much any sort of potato, but the variety makes things fun.

Olive Oil Roasted Tri-Color Potatoes - serves 2

1 pound scrubbed mixed potatoes - these are Peruvian blue, Red Thumb, and Fingerlings, purchased from Elizabeth Telling Farm at this past week's market
Good Extra Virgin Olive oil
Crunchy Sea Salt
Freshly Cracked Black Pepper

Preheat oven to 450 degrees, and line a baking sheet with foil or parchment paper.  Steam potatoes - whole, mind you - for 8 minutes.  When they have cooled just enough to touch, cut each potato into fourths (I'm assuming your potatoes are small, as mine where - if not, cut into 1/2" pieces).  Place in a bowl and drizzle with olive oil.  Toss to coat.  Sprinkle over salt and pepper and again, toss to coat.  Spread into one layer on the baking sheet, and roast for about 20-30 minutes, rotating pan after 15 minutes.  Check frequently after 20 minutes, just to be sure they don't burn.  Serve with meat or anything your heart desires.

Sweet Corn Risotto

Because I love you so much, I am taking a break from Harry to write.  This morning my mom called and said "are you busy with Harry Potter?  Is that why you aren't writing?"  Chastised, I got off the phone and got to work.  I have fewer than 300 pages to go, so I'll probably even be back before the day is done.

This dish is, of course, completely inauthentic.  Why?  Because Italians don't eat sweet corn.  I don't have a written source on that subject, but when Husband was in Italy he was informed that sweet corn was "pig food."  This apparently doesn't apply to cornmeal.  I think it's a sad loss, and I'm grateful that I wound up in the Midwest (okay, I'm really in a Great Lake State, whatever), where sweet corn is a birthright. 

Here was the inspiration for this dish: last weekend, at the Food & Ohio Wine Festival at the North Market, I helped serve at a wine tasting.  The chef was Johnny Dornback from Basi Italia, and he made poached chicken; when someone asked what the poaching liquid was, he mentioned there were corn cobs in the stock.  A lightbulb went off above my head: I'll make a double sweet corn risotto!  I'll make it really light in fat to show my readers how easy it is to make risotto without loading it with butter and cream!  That will be my entire premise!  Unfortunately, I roasted a chicken to go on top of the risotto, and when the chicken was out of the oven, I poured some schmaltz over the risotto.  I couldn't help it - it was begging to be done!  And then I added a little pinch of cream.  See how honest I am?  I could have gone on and on about how low fat everything was and then you'll make the recipe and think "why doesn't my risotto look all creamy and pretty like Lisa's did?"  So, you can leave out the schmaltz and the cream, of course, if you have more willpower than I did.  Or don't have those ingredients on hand.  And then you can feel superior to me.  Go ahead, it's okay.

Risotto is really easy to make.  I mean, there's a lot of standing and stirring; it requires constant vigilance, but it's worth the reward.  I think people (read: chefs) try to make people think risotto is hard so people will be impressed and not try to do it on their own.  It's easy.  You should try it.  Keep a few things in mind: the rice will expand, a lot.  Risotto is really about a ratio: it's about 5 to one, so plan that you will need about 5 cups of liquid per cup of rice, of course, it is sometimes more than that, but rarely less.  About 1/4 to 1/3 cup of dry rice will equal a serving - it might not seem like it at first but remember, it expands.  You need 2 pots to make risotto, and a ladle, and a wooden spoon or spoonula (my favorite tool), and you need 2 free burners.  Your risotto pot goes on the front burner, and your simmering stock goes on the back burner.  Traditional risotto is finished off with a "Mantecare," a big hit of butter which is beaten in at the end.  You don't always have to do this to have delicious risotto; the nature of the type of rice used to make risotto creates a creamy, luscious dish.  You must use arborio, carnaroli, or vialone nano (which is pretty difficult to find): the starch content in these short grained rice varieties ensure a creamy texture.

Lately, I've been seeing a lot of people on TV and the like who say one can make risotto without lots of stirring.  I just can't imagine this to be the case, and indeed, I consulted the matriarch of Italian cooking, Marcella Hazan, who states "The rice must be stirred constantly so that it does not stew in the liquid and become mushy." (Marcella's Italian Kitchen, p 153 - you should buy it, it's a great book).  She even goes on to state "The fundamental technique is unalterable." See?  You have to stir.  No choice.  Marcella also recommends using a nice heavy, heat-retaining pot.  I use an All Clad 8 Quart Stainless Stockpot, but a Le Creuset pot would also be perfect for this recipe.  Don't use a light, cheap pot.

Sweet Corn Risotto - serves 4ish, but I like to make it serve 2, with leftovers

Olive Oil
1 medium red onion (or any onion), small dice
2 medium leeks, whites and light green parts, halved lengthwise and the cut into thin half moons,
4 cloves garlic, fine dice or mashed through garlic masher
red pepper flakes
1 cup risotto rice such as arborio
6 ears sweet corn
1/2 cup dry vermouth or white wine, plus 1/2 cup
4-6 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock, for vegetarian version)
salt and pepper
15 sage leaves, cut into chiffonade
butter (optional) or schmaltz (optional)

On your back burner, heat the stock to a simmer.  Add 1/2 cup vermouth or white wine.  Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat, add a little olive oil, then add the onions and leeks and sweat them over slightly less-than-medium heat.  Stir in the garlic and sweat for about 3-4 minutes, add the pepper flakes, then add the rice.  Stir the rice until it has begun to pearlize - the grain will turn from all white to translucent with a little white spot in the center.  Deglze the pan with the 1/2 cup of vermouth and stir.  While the wine is reducing, cut the kernels off the ears right into the pan.  After cutting the kernels off, turn the knife over to the dull side and scrape the "milk" off the cob.  Throw the cobs into the stock.  Sprinkle everything generously with salt and pepper.  Add one ladelful (I use about 6 ounces of stock per addition) of stock and stir until the liquid has been absorbed.  Repeat, repeat, and repeat for about 20-25 minutes or so.  The risotto is finished when the grains still have bite but are not chalky inside.  Taste and adjust the seasoning.  Add the sage and stir well.  At this point, you can either add another ladelful of stock and stir it in lightly for a runnier risotto, or simply finish when the rice is as described above for a tighter risotto.  I like mine somewhere in between - I don't like leftover liquid, but I do like the whole mess of risotto to relax into the bowl, not to stay in a mound. 

If desired, turn the heat off and add 1/2 stick of butter, softened and cut into chunks.  Beat the risotto for 2 minutes with your spoon.  Alternatively, you can pour about 1/4 cup of schmaltz over, along with 1/4 cup heavy cream, and beat for 2 minutes.  Yum.  Eat with a spoon while still really hot.  Throw a bit of roasted chicken on top, if desired (isn't it funny how different the risotto looks under lightbulbs, above, versus outside, below):

And now, back to Harry.

Mostly Local Dinner - the Meat & Potatoes Kind

I know I spend a lot of time talking about eating locally, using the best ingredients, and preparing them in the simplest manner possible.  I wanted to show how easy it was to replace most of your typical dinner ingredients with local ones.  A lot of people also think it is very expensive to do so, which couldn't be further from the truth.  I show you a lot of "one plate" meals - pasta and stir fries, which I usually have for lunch.  Here is a typical dinner (which only happens about once a week, thanks to our schedules) Husband and I might enjoy throughout the summertime, and did, just this past Tuesday.

Menu

Broiled Up the Lane Cattle Ribeyes
Roasted Arbor Hill Red Thumb Potatoes with Mead Acres mixed baby squash and sweet onions
Saute of Ohio sweet "Candy" onions and Toby Run shitake mushrooms with vermouth and sage
Braised Elizabeth Telling Farm stinging nettles with Wayward Seed collard greens and Blues Creek Thick cut bacon. 

Sounds good enough to eat it again!

Recipes

Collard recipe can be found here.

2 Ribeyes from Up the Lane Cattle, sprinkled with and freshly cracked pepper, place under broiler and broil 2 minutes per side or until desired doneness.  Allow to rest for a few minutes before bringing to the table (this will be the last thing you do, FYI).

Potatoes and veg, ready to go in:

Roasted Red Thumb potatoes & mixed baby squash - serves 2, with leftovers

1 quart container of Red Thumb potatoes (or other small fingerling or new potatoes)
1 quart container mixed baby squash, available throughout the summer from Mead Acres at the Worthington Farm market and other markets. 
1 large sweet onion, available from many farmers through mid summer, cut into chunks
Good Extra Virgin Olive Oil, salt and pepper

Preheat your oven to 475 degrees.  Don't fear high heat!  Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Scrub the potatoes gently and place in pot.  Boil about 8-10 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a knife, but don't drain.  In the meantime, halve the baby squash, leaving any really small ones whole, then add them to the potatoes.  Boil for 30 seconds and the drain.  Return the pot to high heat and put the potatoes and squash back into the pot, tossing them quickly in the pan to dry them off, the place the whole lot into a large bowl, adding the onions in as well (they don't need to be blanched).  Drizzle lightly with olive oil, the sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss to coat.  Roast for 20 minutes or until the squash blisters and everything else begins to brown.

Sauteed Sweet onions & Mushrooms, smitten with vermouth & sage (yes, I stole the wording from Alana) (pictured above) - serves 2-4, as an accompaniment to the steaks

2 large sweet onions, such as "Candy" variety popular in Ohio, sliced into half moons
6 ounces shitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
olive oil
vermouth
10 sage leaves, cut into chiffonade (roll leaves together and slice into ribbons)
salt & pepper

Get out your wok.  Heat until smoking over high heat, then remove from heat and pour a little olive oil in the pan.  With a wad of paper towel, spread the oil over the entire pan and dump out any excess.  Return the wok to the stove, over medium high heat.  Add the onions to the wok and toss to brown.  When they are nearly soft (2 minutes), add the mushrooms.  Toss all together.  When the mushrooms are nice and glossy (2 minutes), turn the heat to high and add the vermouth.  You should have a nice sizzling sound.  Reduce slightly and add the sage, salt and pepper.  Toss everything together until the vermouth is completely reduced.  Serve with meat or on top of pasta.  YUM!  These are incredibly delicious.

Cost breakdown:
Ribeyes - $8.50 for 2
Potatoes - $2.50 quart now that I think of it
Sweet Onions - $1.50 for three
Baby Squash medley - $2 for 2 pints
Shitakes - $6.50 for 6 ounces
Collards - $4
sage - free from garden
total, minus olive oil, etc: $21, nice date dinner for 2.  Not bad, I think.

Market Lunch to Celebrate New Potatoes

This is how much of a dork I am: yesterday, I gushed to the farmer who grows Arbor Hill Organic red thumb potatoes: "this is my favorite day of the year!"  Suffice it to say, I love these little buggers.  Ruddy pink on the outside, they have a creamy, pink-on-white interior which remains after cooking.  The skin is so delicate, one has to be careful one doesn't scrub it away.  I love these boiled and eaten cold, but I didn't have time to wait for that when I returned home from the markets yesterday, because I've had sometime special in store for these for a few weeks now.  I even froze a few Cottage Garden sweet peas, just in case they were finished at the market this past week.  I needn't have worried, but at least I have some sweet peas put away.

This couldn't be simpler.  If I sound redundant, it's because I want everyone to understand that when you have ingredients this good, additional crazy ingredients are merely gilding the lily.  Of course, all potatoes need salt - while boiling and again before serving - but as I keep saying, salt is a good place to start.  A little really good extra virgin olive oil never hurts, either.

First of the Season New Potatoes with Sweet Peas - serves two

1 cup sweet peas
10 - 15 small new potatoes; I of course am fond of those Arbor Hill Red Thumbs, for the fleeting weeks we have them, but you could use any number of small red or yellow potatoes.  Scrub but leave whole
Good extra virgin olive oil
salt
freshly cracked black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the sweet peas.  Cook for 3 minutes and add the potatoes.  Boil for 12- 15 minutes, or until the potato is soft when pierced with a knife.  Drain.  Return the pot to the stove and turn the heat on high; return the peas and potatoes to the pot and toss briefly, just to dry.  Turn the heat off.  Drizzle lightly with olive oil, sprinkle with salt - if you're anything like me, you'll use your Murray River pink salt to highlight the pink potatoes - and crack a little black pepper over.  This side dish - or lunch, if you're me - is good hot or just at room temperature, which makes it great for making ahead of time, setting aside in a covered bowl, and then getting on with dinner.  Don't eat cold from the fridge, however, or the peas will go hard and starchy.  Get out there and make something simple and delicious!

The Sweet Corn is Here!! Yet Another Really Simple Market Recipe

It might sound sacrilegious to say this, but I think I get more excited every year the first time I see sweet corn than the first of the heirloom tomatoes.  You see, like all geeky children, I had many food allergies as a child.  One of these was tomatoes.  Although I've pretty much outgrown this allergy, I still have many more fond memories of sweet corn than I do of tomatoes.  Furthermore, last year I had an unfortunate food poisoning experience which coincided with a big heirloom tomato lunch - more on that later.  At any rate, today, whilst shopping this morning at the Pearl Alley Farmer's market, I made a bee line when I saw the sweet corn.  I rounded out my shopping with some chilis, garlic and green tomatoes, and rushed home to make lunch.  Sweet corn simply cannot be made to wait.  Especially when it's yellow or white/yellow.  Listen up, folks: yellow sweet corn tastes more like corn.  White tastes sweeter, but less corny.  So let's start supporting the farmers who incorporate yellow into their crop.  Just be sure to save some for me (I'm looking at you, pajama-clad Short North boys who rushed to Pistachio a few Saturdays ago to buy up all the canelé on my recommendation, don't think you flew under my radar).

Okay, now that we have all of that out of the way, here's how I enjoyed the sweet corn, chilis, and garlic for lunch.  I rounded it out with a few onions purchased last Saturday, and, just to prove I am a total freak, I fried a CSA egg up and plopped it on top of the corn after its portrait was taken.  Yes, I will put a fried egg on top of just about everything.  Easy as pie.  Or corn.  Or whatever.  This side dish would be really great with a good knob of butter, a hefty glug of heavy cream, and some good cheese - maybe Oakvale aged Gouda, for example - thrown in at the end (see Chef, you taught me well).  However, I am trying to lighten things up around here at Chez Widow, so I opted for just the slice of bacon.  The sacrifice!

Spicy Sauteed Sweet Corn for Summer Supping - serves 2

1 slice thick cut bacon, cut into lardons (again, you know how I feel about that thick-cut bacon from Blues Creek...) or 2 slices regular bacon.  Please don't tell me you're buying bacon at the grocery store.  It's one thing that's really, truly better when treated with great care.
4 nice medium hot chilis, or to taste, such as a hot banana, jalapeno, etc.  This time of year, we only have green chilis, but as soon as the red ones are out, I'm totally there.
1 medium onion, preferably also from farm market, rough dice
4 cloves garlic, mashed in garlic press no matter what Mario Batali says.  He hates food bloggers anyway, so who cares what he thinks
6 ears of corn, fresh from the farm market - yes, 6.  Sweet corn is good for you.  Cut from the cob, please see below
1/2 cup chicken stock
salt, freshly cracked black pepper

Place the bacon in a large skillet, I like to use nonstick, but it's up to you.  Render until bacon is crisp over medium-high heat.  If you have a lot of fat left, drain most of it off.  Leave the bacon and a little fat in the pan and add the chilis and onions.  Saute for a few minutes, until the onion begins to soften, and then add the garlic and the sweet corn.  Stir to combine, turn heat to medium low, and cook for about 4 minutes until the garlic begins to soften.  Season with salt and pepper.  Add the chicken stock and turn heat to high.  Cook until stock is reduced, about 2-3 minutes.  Taste for seasoning, adjust as necessary, and serve.  With or without fried egg on top.

Note about cutting corn from cob: I discovered today that my sushi knife works very well for this task.  Cutting the kernels should be very easy.  If you aren't able to cut through like butter, you either have a crappy knife or are trying to cut too deep.  Cut through the middle of the kernels, then turn your knife around and scrap the "milk" from the cob with the dull side of the knife.  I've learned it is best to just cut the kernels from the cob directly over your saute pan, with the heat on low.  For some reason, it seems to catch more of the kernels and keep them from jumping all over your kitchen.